TeamSwift

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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2004 10:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 23, 2002 8:43 am
Posts: 1406
Location: Minnesota USA
Replace the hydraulic lifter for that valve and do your valve job. It should be fine then. I would replace the seals on all of them.

All else fails, sell the car to me. I have a good engine in my winter car that would like a newer chassis.

Later,
Mike


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2004 11:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2002 11:29 pm
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Location: Cloverbush, B.C. eh!
use 5w30 oil only, anyhting heavier has been know to casue the hyd. lifters to "pump" up and burn valves. 100 psi comp. seems pretty low. but mind you, mine runs like a bag s well (my fly) 175-125-175 psi. i think mine has its days numbered.......

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2004 11:48 pm 
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Location: Minnesota USA
Forgot to mention, but make sure the oil drain-back holes in the head gasket are lined up with the holes in the head and block. Also make darn sure they are cut out to the correct size to match the holes in the head and block. Many aftermarket head gaskets for the 1-liter don't have large enough drain-back holes and/or are not located in the proper place, which causes oil to collect on top of the head which gets sucked past the valve stem seals. This may have been your oil burning issue.

Like the other guy said, 5w30 is the only oil weight you should ever use in the 1-liter. Don't believe some others that use 10w30 or worse. It has been proven time and time again that heavy weight oil pumps those lifters up which will burn the valves.

Later,
Mike


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:55 am 
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My old '88 Sprint had a burnt exhaust valve in cylinder #1 when I got it. Of course my MK1 had some pretty old school engine hardware. It was carbed, and the valves were controlled by rockers.

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