TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
It is currently Sat Nov 25, 2017 3:07 am

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 6 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 1:17 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:24 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Virginia
Hello and thanks for taking time to read.

I have 87 Sprint Turbo with a blinker that keeps blowing the left front blinker/running lamp and its blowing them both at the same time. For about a month, the running lamp didnt work but the blinker did, once the blinker died I put a new bulb in, tested it at the auto store and it worked fine, left and it worked again. 10 seconds later, the bulb is blown.

While all of this was happening, the car had charging issues. The first morning I went out to the car to start it and the battery was dead, I charged it up and went to work. Car started fine when leaving 8 hours later but was dead the next morning. This was all in below freezing overnight temps, so the first thought was my battery was dead. The battery light on the dash flickered constantly through this stuff. When I put the new battery in I drove for about 20 min and the battery light came back on, but would go off if I turned the heater fan on high. Once funds were recovered, I put a new alternator in the car.

Through the process of the alternator/battery issue, the idle has gone from hanging at 1100 to wanting to hang at 1600-2000. Turning fans on will reduce it and I can bring it down by adjusting the screw on the vacuum system. there are a few times on a warm restart that the idle wants to go back to the normal 900-1100 it was doing.

Oh, and now, if the heater fan is not running, I hear what sounds like a relay switching from the center of the dash area, almost like it is near the fan itself.


Ok, think thats enough to get the ball rolling here, :).
Let me know if there is any additional information needed

_________________
87 MK1 Turbo
231,000 miles (or so I was told)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:59 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:24 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Virginia
I will accept any tips that may be out there,

next chance to work on the car I'll be checking grounds and cleaning out that light socket. Maybe try the bulb in the passenger side first and see if that blows the new bulb, maybe its that? Im using the 1157, but that is not what came out. 1157 is what is called for, the bulb that came out did not have a match at 2 auto part stores.

_________________
87 MK1 Turbo
231,000 miles (or so I was told)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 8:19 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:24 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Virginia
Okay, so I guess the only thing left to ask is, have I not requested help properly?

_________________
87 MK1 Turbo
231,000 miles (or so I was told)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:00 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:07 pm
Posts: 557
Location: alabama
Pburt,

You've asked just fine. First welcome to the forum and glad to see another mk1 driver out there.

What you will see if you stay here very long is, this place gets pretty active when fuel prices go up and all sorts of folks start buying up these old cars that also happen to be wonders of the mpg world. I too have also noticed lately that this place nas nearly gotten dormant on all topics since right before the holidays when fuel prices started dropping.

Now that is not to say this place goes completely dead as there are quite a few folks here that have been here a very long time. But most of us I am sure just stop in on occasion to see what if anything somebody might have a new project going on or any nice items for sale or trade. What we the older crowd have noticed over time are that you have a large crowd of folks that buy these old cars for peanuts, too darn cheap to really fix them up properly and use them, then do nothing but come here looking for miracles. Many dont want to post pictures of their problems or questions IF that is even possible, and many seem to get short tempered when we suggest that maybe you try and search the forum a bit.
LOTS of great archived info here if one only looks.

Now, as for you and your gremlins, you hit the nail on the head, when it comes to hunting down electrical problems, yes sir like gremlins they can be. IF you dont already own 2 things you need to. First a FSM (factory service manual) for your model, often times easliy found on ebay or similar for quite cheap. And a good DVM (digital multi meter). There are links on this forum to the schematics for mk1's that you also might find helpful. But, when it comes to electrical troubleshooting, it is really hard to help someone without actually being on the scene. I would to start with suggest you look for 2 things, bad/broken or dirty grounds. and then of course shafed or damaged wires. I would also suggest a large tube of dilectric grease. EVERY electrical connector on your car could use disassembly and use of some of that grease on each and every contact.

Your car is near 30 years old. Unless you have been the only owner and kept it in meticulous order, there is no telling what all sorts of electrical issues there may be. Sad to say, it going to take time, lots of trouble shooting but cleaning contacts and grounds, as well as looking for anything broken or chafed will go a long way in solving your problems.

_________________
Mike
Valley Grande, AL
1986 Sprint plus

Do you maintain a personal fleet like I do?
Why do we do it?
Because it's what we enjoy and because we CAN.
2011 camaro, 2005 Vibe, 2016 Outback, 06 Expedition, 87 Porsche 911, 87 Turbo sprint, 82 Brat, 73 gmc 4x4, 69 camaro, 99 Gl1500 Honda Goldwing, 12 Kawasaki klr650, 2012 Kubota L3200, and we wont even go into the small stuff.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 8:35 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:24 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Virginia
Thanks for the reply, I did get started with the basic side of things, all grounding points in the engine compartment have been taken apart and cleaned out thoroughly. Each was put back together with a dab of dielectric grease then coated with a battery terminal protector.
Removed the old bulb, and cleaned the socket real good, even took an eraser to the contact points at the base.

New bulb installed, turned the indicator on and it flashed real bright twice, then died.

Back to the drawing board. :buzz:

_________________
87 MK1 Turbo
231,000 miles (or so I was told)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 3:00 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:36 am
Posts: 886
Location: Vancouver BC
(1)
Quote:
.. blinker that keeps blowing the left front blinker/running lamp and its blowing them both at the same time. For about a month, the running lamp didn't work but the blinker did, once the blinker died I put a new bulb in .... 10 seconds later, the bulb is blown.


This result sounds like a wiring issue that resulted in supply of more than 12V to the lamp(s) during turn signal flasher operation. If this was simply a short circuit to ground, the corresponding fuse for this circuit would have blown. Trace the wiring between the combination switch (turn signal switch), the flasher, and with a multi-meter in voltage mode or using a test light, check for the presence of expected 12 volts at the affected lamp socket(s) with the bulbs removed. Before you do this, ensure you are using the correct bulb. If you put in the wrong bulb, it can cause the position of the bulb base pins to potentially receive 24V when both your running light and turn signal circuits are supplying 12V to the bulb's 2 filaments.

(2)
Quote:
..While all of this was happening, the car had charging issues. The first morning I went out to the car to start it and the battery was dead, I charged it up and went to work. Car started fine when leaving 8 hours later but was dead the next morning.

The battery appears to have a drain caused by a high resistance short to ground somewhere. The recurrent discharge of the replacement battery indicates the original fault was unresolved. You can now at least rule out the battery as an issue itself.

(3)
Quote:
The battery light on the dash flickered constantly through this stuff. When I put the new battery in I drove for about 20 min and the battery light came back on, but would go off if I turned the heater fan on high.

This does not make much sense unless a faulty voltage regulator was not beginning to charge the battery until a heavy electrical load (max-fan) was placed on the charging circuit.

(4)
Quote:
.. I put a new alternator in the car.

This may have at least dealt with issue (3).

(5) ..
Quote:
the idle has gone from hanging at 1100 to wanting to hang at 1600-2000. Turning fans on will reduce it and I can bring it down by adjusting the screw on the vacuum system. there are a few times on a warm restart that the idle wants to go back to the normal 900-1100 it was doing.

Use of an electrical load (such as the fan) to try to control idle speed is likely unrelated to your original issue, as is fiddling with the idle speed directly.

(6)
Quote:
...if the heater fan is not running, I hear what sounds like a relay switching from the center of the dash area, almost like it is near the fan itself.

A non A/C equipped car's factory heater blower fan uses no relay, so the sound you hear may be some other component that has a loose connection. Does your car have A/C?


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 6 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group