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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 10:07 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 178
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
I noticed that the mass air flow sensor (92 gt) was not fasten all the way down. When I tighten the two set screws the casing starts to split apart. I noticed an o-ring underneath that would put pressure on the internals causing the separation. Has anybody taken apart one of the sensor before? Does anyone have a fix for the casing? I didn't have CEL code, but the idle was resting at 1,000 rpm's, and was higher than I think it should be at start up. I'll try a slightly thinner o-ring.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 12:22 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 178
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
I read up on the air flow meter. Interesting! Very simple design. Power in, a ground, and power out. My title was wrong, it outputs current according to air cooling capacity on a hot wire, but is also compensated for intake air temperature on the second prong (the cold wire). More air flow more current more heat is dissipated more current. The FSM gives you the readings for power in, and power out at the on position. I will be able to test to make sure it is running correctly or at least at idle.

My idle problem is more than likely the ISC solenoid valve or air valve hence no CEL.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 5:27 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11672
Location: columbus, ohio
i remove the air valve and install a blanking plate. it removes the 3 step idle control for cold starting but my twincam is in a summer car anyway.

the idle just comes up to normal on a cold start and gets rid of the drama of idle surging. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 12:00 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 178
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Not to mention with that gone you can actually get your hands around the intake easier. I probably will leave it though, I plan on driving the car all seasons. I think it is functioning properly anyways. I need to buy a new voltage meter.


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