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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:52 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Oregon USA
I daily drive an 89' Suzuki Swift GTI, and currently and having some issues with it firing. It turns over, but just doesn't fire.
The intermittent problem being that it won't fire over one day, and if I let it sit for a day or two, it will fire over. I drive for 5-20 miles, and park it, leaving it for 10 minutes or so, and return to the same issue. Kind of a pain in the butt.
At the moment, I can't hear the Fuel Pump hum when I change my ignition key from ACC to on.
My guess would be the fuel system, or the ignition, but I wanted to hear some opinions.

What grounds should I check (Pictures would be WAY appreciated), and is there a way I can run a pin test, or diagnostics on it? I have the codes, but I'm not sure what to do.

Yes, I'm an idiot.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:36 am
Posts: 884
Location: Vancouver BC
Welcome to the site. There are a lot of past threads that deal with your issue. Use the Search function on this site.

After you check any trouble codes, loose connections, also check the fuel injector relay / FI fuse in the box by the battery.

Since you no longer hear the fuel pump priming for a few seconds when you turn the ignition key, this could be due to a loose or poor connection supplying power or ground to the fuel pump. Does this always occur after every intermittent no-run event?

The wiring harness connector to the pump and fuel gauge is located under the back seat cushion, which you have to pry up to free up a big steel spring clip which holds bottom of seat cushion in place, above carpet, in order to see the wiring. The wiring harness passes through a grommet to the fuel pump on the gas tank. Search for a wiring diagram for your 89 Gti in order to test for power / continuity during start (ignition on)

If wiring checks out, if I were to guess, based on the symptoms you report and the age of your car, it will probably be a failing fuel pump caused by rust/crap in gas tank. You can start with this thread, which focuses on an owner's replacement of fuel pump and rusty fuel tank. I am currently replacing the tank/pump in my 90 Gti, which was required despite my use of premium gas (no ethanol) and fuel stabilizer. Usually a fuel pump failing will be preceded by increasingly intermittent operation. Sometimes, the last thing you hear will be a high pitched squeal of the motor bearings seizing.

http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=58894


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 2:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:52 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Oregon USA
Thanks, SuzukiTom, I'll check out the site, more.
I was just kind of on a binge of "Holy shit, my car isn't running and I don't know jack about it!" I'm still aspiring to even understand a car, honestly. But, I'll look around the forum.


After doing a diagnostic on it, the first code to come up was a 13, which is the O2 Sensor. However, after undoing the battery ground, and redoing the diagnostic, the code to come up was a 12 (normal). My oil didn't smell rich, so I don't know about that, but I may as well swap out the 02 sensor, also.

I'm so glad you just said that about the spring in the seat, by the way. I was looking for a release clamp and couldn't find jack to get under there.

Is it possible that the fuel line could be plugged? I hear the click that comes before the fuel pressurizing "hum", but I still fail to hear the hum.
At first, the issue was once every couple of weeks, so I couldn't really tell what was up, but now it's daily.

I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 2:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:52 pm
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Location: Oregon USA
And, yes, the fuel pump ceases after the no-run*


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 3:23 pm 
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Location: Vancouver BC
The click sound is from the relay located in the engine compartment. The hum sound should be from the fuel pump running for a few seconds when ignition key is turned ON.

I suppose a fuel line could be plugged, but any tank sourced debris would not likely get that far; debris would most likely remain trapped inside the pump or within a pump-attached fuel sock screen. The fuel pump outlet passage goes to a metal fuel supply pipe extending out of the rectangular fuel pump /fuel gauge assembly that is bolted to the top of the gas tank. A rubber line from the fuel supply pipe then goes to a check valve and then on to the metal fuel filter's inlet pipe; the fuel filter is located beside the driver side rear suspension control arm. Finer debris could be lodged inside the fuel filter. After that, any fuel should be pretty clean regardless of what is in the tank.

If you find fuel at the fuel filter, you could check for fuel blockages between there and the fuel injector rail. There are two fuel pipes (one supply and one return) connected to rubber fuel lines. All fuel hoses carry fuel under significant pressure, so do take necessary precautions to reduce fuel spray/fire/spill hazards prior to removing hose clamps.

In my case, what I did to confirm diagnosis of the fuel pump fault was:

(1) check for voltage at the pump connector under the seat. Voltage was found so I knew it was not a problem with any wiring or relay upstream of the last electrical connector before the pump.
(2) I had a complete used fuel pump assembly ($50 at Pic n Pull), which I plugged into the connector under the seat. I repeated the ignition on test and the pump ran for 3 seconds and stopped.

PS. The fuel pump electrical connector is under the passenger side of the rear seat. You may be able to get away with lifting up only that side of the cushion to reduce the hassle of prying these strong spring tabs on each side of the seat cushion back into place afterwards. (Watch out for your knuckles/fingers when prying)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:52 pm
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Location: Oregon USA
Didn't even do a volt check on the Fuel system. I wiggled the wire coupling, trying to get them to have a better connection, and boom. The fuel pump worked first try.

There was a hesitation for me as I drove around for about 10 miles, and that was a more dramatic lag between me pushing the gas in, and the engine registering that she needed pushed. Granted, this stopped when she was warmed up, but I'm gonna do another drive here in a couple of hours to check if it's just something that happened because of the space between it doing a no-run, and starting it up (20 hours)

Thanks, so much.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:36 am
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Location: Vancouver BC
:D well hopefully that solves the problem! As a caution, intermittent operation of a fuel pump on its last legs may make it appear like a loose connection was responsible. So be prepared for recurrence that could strand you inconveniently until you have accumulated enough successful start /run cycles to conclude that the fix will last.

Cold start conditions are when fuel pump is most likely to act up.

Cheers
Tom


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