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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 3:36 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2015 3:27 am
Posts: 2
Location: Tacoma, wa
i have a 98 metro 3 cylinder that bogs down on the highway after about 10-15 minutes, on shorter trips, it doesnt bog down at all. the problem doesnt appear to be in the fuel pump or fuel filter (sock which was replaced anyway), both of which were in the gas tank. The car sat for a few months and when it bogs down it loses power extremely, sometimes stalling out, even when compression started. once it makes it off the highway it still is extremely weak and dies. Ive seen some mention of vacuum leaks under the throttle body gasket (hard plastic square thingie) dirty MAP sensor, clogged fuel lines? Ive seen a lot of mention of timing belts missing a tooth, but it seems to me that for those explanations it would be at least somewhat affected at lower RPMs or even just immediately on high RPM's, not the delayed effect of 10-15 minutes I'm getting. I've also read it might be a clog in the fuel line or an internally tarred up throttle body, which seems like a reasonable explanation, but whats the best way to test?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:11 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2015 3:27 am
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Location: Tacoma, wa
I know I'm throwin out a lot of ideas here, but I just read on another message board someone who had nearly identical symptoms, they changed out a lot of parts but in the end it was the fuel injector, so whats the best test for that?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1408
Location: Alberta, Canada
Go underneath car and bang on catalytic converter, if it rattles inside its likely plugging up. I've need that a few times and it's fairly easy to check. Can also unbolt exhaust and take for a drive to see if it improves.
In my experience you won't find the problem in the throttle body, they really don't have many issues there but it's always a slim possibility.

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2008 12:47 pm
Posts: 640
Location: Olympia, WA
Agreed.
If it's breaking up inside, you won't have to tap on the side of the cat very hard with something fairly lightweight like the handle of a wooden hammer or small chunk of wood. Either will be sufficient to make the scratchy, rattling sound that we never want to hear. The cat sits to the right side of the shift column and is free to wiggle to the right and left: These are not bolted firmly to the body like they are on some vehicles.

In neutral, does it miss (or even backfire) when you rev it way up and then let off the gas pedal completely? For grins and giggles, after driving it around and have it act up, let the motor cool down to where the head is still warm to the touch and do that test several times, turn the motor off, unbolt the exhaust manifold and with ear plugs in (just my advice!), repeat the test to see if there's a difference.
Tip: You could have someone record a video on their phone before and after removing the manifold, so you can play it back for comparison and not have to do additional tests.

For the vacuum lines, you can grab a can of starter fluid and spray it at the lines to see if that test makes a difference while revving it up and down.

IF you have access to a timing light, hook it up and point it down the throat of the throttle body to see if you can get a look at the spray onto the brass plate. Don't know it will help, but you might try taking video while the motor is cold and again, after it starts acting up.
Running some Seafoam through the fuel system couldn't hurt but I would be pleasantly surprised if it helped with the problem.

You could double-check that the throttle body is securely attached to the intake manifold. As I recall, getting a box end wrench in there to check the nuts is a bit difficult though.
The throttle body its self actually consists of an upper and lower half, held together by what is it? 4 or 5 long Phillips-head screws that you can check for tightness on the top of the throttle body.


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