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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 12:12 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2015 8:59 am
Posts: 6
Location: Coonamble Australia
Hey all.
I'm having a hard time figuring out which wires to connect to a relay so I can switch parkers & headlights on with acc.
I've located my acc wire(blue) from the key barrel but the negative switching in the combination switch has me stuffed?
I can't work out wich colour wire from the combination switch feeds the power so i can switch it from permanent to acc.
How should I set up my relay?
Relay pins are
86
87
87
85
30
I've been all over the net trying to figure wiring diagrams from swifts to Chryslers for days & I'm @ my wits end?
If a sparky could help a gti brother out it would be super fun happy time for the Dog!

Pic of my monstrosity included.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2015 8:59 am
Posts: 6
Location: Coonamble Australia
Any auto electricians got any ideas?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2015 8:59 am
Posts: 6
Location: Coonamble Australia
Bump for today.
Any help would be most appreciated?
Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 4:22 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2015 8:59 am
Posts: 6
Location: Coonamble Australia
Bump
Anyone1?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 11:34 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1408
Location: Alberta, Canada
Let's give it a shot. What year is your car? I assume headlights are on the multifunction switch on the column(mk3?).
You basically want to switch the headlight circuit so that it doesn't have any power until key is on or acc position so headlights can't be left on with key off?

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 11:49 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1408
Location: Alberta, Canada
This may be tricky to explain, looking at a diagram I'll try and sum it up. Headlights always have 12v to them Supplied by underhood fuse. The switch grounds one or both of the other wires to complete the circuit(high or low, or both if you hold stick back on flash to pass).
So one option is to interrupt the main feed so it's only live with key on. The other would be to interrupt the ground that the switch offers, so that it won't ground headlights unless ign is on.
It may take two relays, in order to make park lights also do the same thing.
I'm fairly sure the ground is provided at the underdash fuse box, and would be easy to interrupt, it's common for burning up that terminal, in fact I bet you will be able to tell which terminal it is due to heat discoloration at one terminal. The catch is when this terminal fries, the park lights still work, so you will have to find the park light power or ground feed and interrupt it as well.

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 5:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2015 8:59 am
Posts: 6
Location: Coonamble Australia
Yup that's exactly what I'm trying to do.
I've bumped the high beams on before during the day & come back to have a dead batt in my other gti.
A more modern car I had previously had this feature, I'd never switch the lights off because as soon as I took the key out the ignition the lights would go out.
Yes, I do recall seeing a pin slot in the combination switch loom plug, column side of the fuse box.
Only 1 browny coloured slot of the lot.
Ok
So do u think u could tell me which wires to connect to which pins on my relay with the info I've provided?
Either interrupting the ground switch or power, wich ever is the better option.
I'll be doing the headlight power relay after I've done this job so I get the full brightness of light output but I thort I'd do this mod 1st then move forward instead of the lights first and work backwards.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 5:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2015 8:59 am
Posts: 6
Location: Coonamble Australia
Ok what I've narrowed it down to,if u look in the pic I've got my blue wire (acc) coming from the barrel to the fuse box under the steering column.
Below is combination switching wires, the 1ns for headlights & parkers are red , red/white trace & the white wire to the right.
I've worked out those 3 control high beam low beam & Parkers.
If I disconnect those 3 from the plug coming out of the fuse box I get no headlight/parkers.
They recieve 12v from fuse box under steering.
Red is constant 12v when earthed with a test light, test light dims on 2nd click of the stem switch
(lights on)

Red/white when earthed the test light goes on, when the stem switch is turned to 2nd click , test light goes out.
White constant 12v, no effect when switching, only dims on ignition, as does red.
Black wire @ the bottom, test light out when earthed, when given 12v test light on, no effect by switching or ign.
Now see brown/yellow trace that's part of the loop somehow , it behaves similar to red/white but if I remove red, red/white & white pins from the plug coming out of the fuse box under steering, brown/yellow is dead.
Also if I connect red/white into either the white or red slot on the plug the Parker light fuse blows on high beam.
Huh?
If ur confused by all this, you now feel my pain.
If not, ur the 1 I need to speak to to make me get it & You're Tops.


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