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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 9:07 am 
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So i've read through a couple of the topic's that state what could be going wrong and fixed the issue....until i woke up this morning and it blew again. Everythings dark in the dash.

Yesterday I was driving like normal than the car just shut off. I checked the Fuses and the 15a Ignition fuse was blown. I noticed a wire in a white connector with others has been getting heated and melted a bit in the slot. Took it out cleaned it and made a new connection. I'm not sure what it runs but checked it without a fuse and with a fuse and it's not the culprit.

Got the Car towed home. Swapped out the Ignitor module "that has cooling fins and 2 white wires." Started it up and looked like it worked. Turned the Car off for the night and went to bed.

Symptoms are no check engine or oil red lights in the dash. Turns and cranks just doesn't fire up.

So am I looking at a bad ground than? I haven't noticed anything corroded aside from the 2 Fuses in the bay. The Main and...the 40A and 60A fuses which have a little green at the top in the canisters but doesn't look like that could be it. I check under and those and nothing corroded.

I have a 1990 schematic/white dealership book but not sure if it will match with the 1997 Geo Metro 3 Cyl.

Thanks
Mike

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 4:17 pm 
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the module which you called an ignitor is actually the injector resistor. it has 2 white high temp wires on a round yellow or white connector. it is in series with the injector and adds resistance to the circuit so that the circuit doesn't see high current on the injector pulse.

if the big aluminum finned resistor degrades it can act in one of two ways. if it fails open you won't get any fuel from the injector. if it fails as a short or lower resistance it will draw high current and clear the f/i fuse.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 4:25 pm 
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Ok good to know.

The problem i have now is the 15a fuse is still blowing. Not showing any dash lights when it cranks. It's cranking in the dark basically.

So if it were the injector resistor i'd be able to unplug it and toss a new fuse in to see if the car lights up.

I unplugged the resistor and it still blows the fuse. Nothing visual looks to be corroded. So leaning to a module or relay

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2016 8:25 am 
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f/i relay shorted or the injector coils shorted to ground. :wink:

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2016 10:01 am 
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shcmikel wrote:

So am I looking at a bad ground than?


Bad grounds do not blow fuses , only good grounds, in the places they shouldn't be, do it. =)

I had similar problem with my '95 but it was randomly blowing FI fuse. One way to find out where the problem is to smoke it out. Like I did. Put a 30 amp fuse and look for the smoke and sparks when someone momentarily turns the ignition on. If I haven't done it that way I wouldn't off ever found that grounding point. That was the main reason I got the car for $500 . After I fixed the damage that previous owner did to the car to fix it I drove it for 5 years with the problem never being fixed. It would occasionally pop the fuse , you replace it and it was good for another year. Till the huge monsoon storm one night , it blew and it would do so within minutes or second after that.
Turns out the short to the ground was in the EGR circuit . The loom running under the intake manifold right above starter was cut by the sharp edge on one of those aluminum mounting tabs that hold the loom in place. Usually those tabs are plasti-dipped but someone did a half ass job and it was dipped only half way leaving razor sharp edge to cut through the loom. Pulled the loom out , replaced the wires, plastic loom and the razor tab and its been running like a champ ever since.

Not saying this is your problem but it could be something similar.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 2:03 pm 
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I thought about putting a bigger fuse in but I'm worried about the ecu if I did. I'll try your guys suggestions when I get home.


Thanks

Mike

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:28 pm 
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I had a 91 that kept blowing that 15 amp fuse as soon as I turned on the ignition. I finally traced it to the alternator. It was driven for a long time with the cam seal pushed clean out of the spot it fit in. This in turn was dumping massive amounts of oil all over the pass side of the engine bay. I pulled the alternator out and pressure washed it and put it back in and solved the problem. If I hadn't have looked at the wiring diagram I would never have thought that there would be a wire to the alternator off the fuel injection circuit.


Ken..........


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 7:38 pm 
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Interesting. I just tightened the Alternator before this happened. I'll have a look at that tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 1:18 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Try to disconnect the ECU and try to crank to see if the fuse is blow or not...
Then if not then it's dead/fried ECU...

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