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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 3:20 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 5:49 pm
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Location: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
Well - the car's still not going. Auto elec popped round on Thursday and we identified that the crank angle sensor in the distributor was not giving a sufficient signal to energise the ECU to throw an output signal to the coil. I've now fitted a new CAS and its still not giving a spark. Out of desperation I changed the distributor body over today with a spare I had. The trigger wheel was in a different place on the distributor shaft - bingo I thought. I rebuilt the distributor and still no spark. I do get an inconsistent spark turning the distributor by hand (when not bolted in place) but as soon as I refit it and crank the engine over I get no spark.

Completely baffled - I've now changed the coil, ECU, distributor, crank angle sensor, ignition power unit, and checked everything else at least twice.

Any ideas??????????

Cheers Adrian


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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 6:14 pm 
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Location: Etobicoke, Ontario
Bad MAF.

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 7:55 pm 
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Location: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
TheINCRide wrote:
Bad MAF.


That wont stop the engine firing up - it will still idle with a failed maf. It just wont rev. Good thought though.

Cheers Adrian


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 2:25 pm 
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Actually your wrong. A bad MAF can prevent the engine from firing at all.

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:10 pm 
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Location: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
TheINCRide wrote:
Actually your wrong. A bad MAF can prevent the engine from firing at all.


Thanks - clearly I'm getting conflicting advice from different forums. I have a good Mk2 MAF fitted now and I still have the same problems.

Cheers Adrian


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 5:21 am 
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Location: columbus, ohio
many times the maf will be good and the wiring is the problem.

it's a known failure for the wires to the maf connector to break and cause a problem. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 7:03 am 
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Location: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
t3 ragtop wrote:
many times the maf will be good and the wiring is the problem.

it's a known failure for the wires to the maf connector to break and cause a problem. :wink:


Thanks for your reply. I've spotted the posts on MAF wiring. Mine is all good. I'll keep searching

Cheers Adrian


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 3:52 am 
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Location: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
GREAT NEWS :D - I now have a spark. Problem was the EFI relay supply was coming from an ignition feed which was being isolated when the ignition key cranked the starter motor. The supply now comes from a stable 12v battery feed.

Next problem is I now have no fuel pressure. Pump is working fine and fuel is being pumped via the return. Everything was ok so I can only assume the FPR has failed in the fuel rail (the brittle problem encountered elsewhere). I have an adjustable FPR so will install that in the return line at the weekend.

PS: all injectors are firing correctly (checked with a sound meter).

Cheers Adrian


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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 2:01 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 5:49 pm
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Location: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
Another frustrating afternoon working on the red Moke. I've now fitted the adjustable FPR and I have the necessary 40psi fuel pressure. The injectors are still firing (checked with sound scope) BUT THE CAR STILL WONT START. No fuel on the plugs so I'm guessing I need to dismantle the fuel rail and clean the injectors (which is a fairly big job in terms of removing a whole bunch of stuff that's in the way).

I'm going to leave it alone for a few weeks and find something more productive to do.

Cheers Adrian


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