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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 6:41 pm 
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MuE Patient Zero/The Link Man
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Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 7:42 pm
Posts: 1236
Location: St. Albert, Alberta
First off, HERE IS A LINK to the group buy.

They arrived, and look pretty damned good, well built, solid, and should do the trick. I wanted these not because the stock ones are paticularly bad, or because i want to mess around with toe.
But mainly because i'm doing a whole rear brake swap, and i figured this would be a nice thing to have when i break the stock ones in frustration trying to get the rusted bolts out ;)

Turns out, however, i will be getting the toe alligned to about 1.5mm out as per Whiteline's Suggested allignment specs.

In a nutshell:
Good price and i think he still made money on the venture, so i'm sure if enough of you bug him, you might be able to get Joe to do another run. ;)

My only complaint, would be that he didn't include the new bolts to replace the old ones used for adjusting toe (what are they called exactly? Excentirc or something?)

Whatever, i'll have to get some new ones. No problem, really, but it would have been nice. :?

Other then that, well built stuff at a great price, from a great guy.
Hopefully Joe puts his machining/designing company to work some more in the future!

Image

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n1tr0 wrote:
not the quickest suzuki on the block eh ?


Last edited by Mustard on Sat Jul 30, 2005 11:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2005 11:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 1:31 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Kalifornia, Alhambra
Mustard,
you showed a picture during your brake upgrade with no toe bar (strut bar) did you break the eccentric adjustable bolt? If so why do you still need it? doesn't the new adjustable bar eliminate the need to move the mounting point?

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"The floggings will continue, until morale improves"

2005 Harley Davidson XLC1200 (White)
1994 Geo Metro Coupe (Blue)
1957 Chevrolet Corvette 'Vert (Red)


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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2005 4:57 pm 
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MuE Patient Zero/The Link Man
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Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 7:42 pm
Posts: 1236
Location: St. Albert, Alberta
well the bolts in question, the eccentirc ones, do not come put very easily at all.
In fact, one of them took emense hammering, and the other i ended up cutting.

Needless to say, it would need replacing.
BUT you are correct, a new eccentric bolt is unnesesary, since the whole point of these bars to allow for easier toe adjustments... in this case, twisting it.
So, to replace the old bolts, a simple run of the mill 12mm bolt will take it's place, along with some washers, and a spacer provided with the bars.

One peice of advice during installing however, would be to NOT take out the bolt that runs through the knuckle to the toe bar on the wheel side of the bar.
You cannot buy that bolt to replace it when you kill it, and i promise, you will :(

i'll post some pics when she's all installed.

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n1tr0 wrote:
not the quickest suzuki on the block eh ?


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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2005 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 1:31 pm
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Location: Kalifornia, Alhambra
I will make a note of that! Thanks for the info.

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"The floggings will continue, until morale improves"

2005 Harley Davidson XLC1200 (White)
1994 Geo Metro Coupe (Blue)
1957 Chevrolet Corvette 'Vert (Red)


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:39 am 
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a.k.a Bum head
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Joined: Mon May 31, 2004 5:29 pm
Posts: 3157
Location: London, ON
To revive this thread...

I'm (finally) doing the toe bar replacement on the new red car that I've got and I'd like to add a bit to this thread to keep everything all in one place.

You'll find the inner ends a huge b!tch to remove. I'm going to go with the angle-grinder + cutoff disc approach and slice through the old toe bar end and the associated bushing and the stupid-ass (but yet essential) metal sleeve in the middle, which is the source of ALL evil in this swap. As Jard said in a newer thread, they almost always seize on the bolt.

Also, a tip for seized bolts that aren't fastened in (rust on the shank where the thread isn't), go get a copper or brass mallet before you start beating on it. They won't ruin the end of your fastener (since copper and brass are much softer than steel, they'll take the beating instead), in turn you'll have a MUCH better chance of reusing the fastener. Mustard could've saved himself days of agonizing if he hadn't used a steel hammer to smack that stud out of the knuckle. This goes for all sorts of fasteners:

- outer front tie rod end
- front upper strut bolts
- wheel studs
- etc...


Chris


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