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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:08 am 
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T3,

I will make sure I document that with a video or pictures (lol). I am going to Cody's over the weekend to pick the remaining parts that I need for the shifter and other little things. I want to get that engine started. By the way I bought new CV's at Napa, I asked for CV's for swift 1989, I think they gave the the ones for 95-01. The length is the same as the ones for the GTI (I got an old pair sitting around), however my new ones dont have the inner axle, so I will have to reuse the inner axle from the old CV's (those have the inner axle and the mount to the back of the engine block with the 3 bolts). The problem with my new ones is that they came with ABS rings (worst part they came with a note that says "Easy to remove"), the rings dont fit with the my current setup. I will have to use a pry bar to remove the old CV from the old inner axle, and the same for the ABS rings, I hope they are not a pain to remove.

I am not using any of the Vert parts, well except the vert transmission, I have tried to keep everything GTI.

Some of the guys from here tell me that there is no troubles with using a main wiring harness from the Automatic for the Standard transmission, do you think? it might give me some trouble?

I got a set of fog lamps that I am planning to install on my 89 front bumper, in regards to that, do I need to replace the inner Dash wiring harness in order to get the fog lamps to work with the original fog lamps switch? my main wiring harness has the connectors for the fog lamps next to the head lights. I am still using the inner Dash wiring original from the vert.

In regards to installing the main wiring harness, the way it lays down inside the engine, for the wires to be able to reach the connections specially to the passenger side (the MAF connector and injectors plug) , I had to put the wires through the Intake instead of going through the back of the engine (around), is this the right path for the wiring harness? there is a white three pin connector, I dont know where that one goes, any guesses ??

Cheers

Monte

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Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.0 T 2008
Chevrolet Sprint CL 1991 Convertible 1.3 GTI
Honda Pilot EX 4WD 2006
Honda odyssey EX 2013


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:05 pm 
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monte_98 wrote:
T3,

I will make sure I document that with a video or pictures (lol). I am going to Cody's over the weekend to pick the remaining parts that I need for the shifter and other little things. I want to get that engine started. By the way I bought new CV's at Napa, I asked for CV's for swift 1989, I think they gave the the ones for 95-01. The length is the same as the ones for the GTI (I got an old pair sitting around), however my new ones dont have the inner axle, so I will have to reuse the inner axle from the old CV's (those have the inner axle and the mount to the back of the engine block with the 3 bolts). The problem with my new ones is that they came with ABS rings (worst part they came with a note that says "Easy to remove"), the rings dont fit with the my current setup. I will have to use a pry bar to remove the old CV from the old inner axle, and the same for the ABS rings, I hope they are not a pain to remove.


first, the half shaft the bolts to the rear of the block (i think what you're calling the inner axle) was a dealer only item. the bearing in it is what they call an oem special spec item. to my knowledge, suzuki never even offered a replacement bearing for the half shaft, you just bought a replacement unit. the axles they gave you don't sound right. it sounds to me like they sold you late model mk5 sohc 16v axles (with antilock.) gt cars didn't come with abs and the hubs are considerably different between the two cars.

monte_98 wrote:
I am not using any of the Vert parts, well except the vert transmission, I have tried to keep everything GTI.

Some of the guys from here tell me that there is no troubles with using a main wiring harness from the Automatic for the Standard transmission, do you think? it might give me some trouble?


you can make it work but there are some things that are funky. the manual cars had a starter interlock mounted on the clutch pedal where the automatics have a park position safety switch as the starter interlock. when wagon and i were building twincam swap cars, he did an automatic chassis or 2 and had a couple of gti automatic engine bay harnesses.


monte_98 wrote:
I got a set of fog lamps that I am planning to install on my 89 front bumper, in regards to that, do I need to replace the inner Dash wiring harness in order to get the fog lamps to work with the original fog lamps switch? my main wiring harness has the connectors for the fog lamps next to the head lights. I am still using the inner Dash wiring original from the vert.


it's easier to just run new wiring for the fog lights. add a relay to the dash switch circuit. i always thought that the way suzuki wired lights was funky.


monte_98 wrote:
In regards to installing the main wiring harness, the way it lays down inside the engine, for the wires to be able to reach the connections specially to the passenger side (the MAF connector and injectors plug) , I had to put the wires through the Intake instead of going through the back of the engine (around), is this the right path for the wiring harness? there is a white three pin connector, I dont know where that one goes, any guesses ??

Cheers

Monte


the only 3 pin white connector i remember is the connection for the distributor. after running wires for my megasquirt, i don't really remember how the gt wiring loom was strung.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
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My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 1:07 pm 
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I think I have made some progress, I visited Cody76 this weekend, I was able to get my hands on a 3 pin distributor, I still got to check why mine has only two, I will have to open them up to see what is the real difference. I got also a wiring harness for a standard, I got to choose which one to use, the one on the car is for the automatic (but looks like the guy who used the wiring harness before was using it as standard, it has a weird bridge between two wires of the electronics that control the automatic transmission. Cody helped me get the inner axle off the old CV joint, so now I can use the inner axle with the new CV joints. By the way a friend brought a 3 leg universal extractor and I was able to get the damn ABS rings and plates from my new CV joints. I got also the parts for the air filter casing that I was missing. I will have to reinstall the wiring harness as I was doing it wrong, but that is not too bad. I got as well the piece of pipe that does between the lower radiator outlet to the back of the pipe of the engine. And of course last but not least the shifting bar that I was missing from a 1.3 Cylinder (they are very different from the verts). I will take some pics and post them in here (for documentation purposes).

Cheers to everyone for the help and advice. Cody thanks for selling me the parts, by the way Cody76 has like 3 GTI engines for sale. Let him know if you guys want them.

Monte

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Monte
Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.0 T 2008
Chevrolet Sprint CL 1991 Convertible 1.3 GTI
Honda Pilot EX 4WD 2006
Honda odyssey EX 2013


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 11:16 pm 
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Finally the engine is completely in, I tried to crank it, got the beep sound when I turn the key, however the only thing I hear from the starter was a RRRRRR sound... nothing else happen. I have some pics of my setup, a few missing connectors that and hoses that I dont know where they go to. Feel free to comment on the pics. Starter was from the 1.0, it was working before. any hints on what to look for?

Pics are on viewtopic.php?f=36&t=48938&p=390380#p390380 the verts posts

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Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.0 T 2008
Chevrolet Sprint CL 1991 Convertible 1.3 GTI
Honda Pilot EX 4WD 2006
Honda odyssey EX 2013


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 2:46 pm 
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Thanks for the replies guys, I have got the started to work properly, I have manage also to get all the wires a place and all the vacuum connections connected as well. I have replaced the fuel pump for the GTI pump, I had my good hangover on gas.... the tank filled to full the last time that I took the car out, at that point I didnt know I would be changing the engine soon. I had to take about 30 liters of gas out of the tank before I could drop it. Anyway the pump is in, it is working ( I made sure I tested before putting in). I tried cranking the engine a few times, the engine turned but it didnt fire. I tested if I was getting current on the sparks, however I didnt get fuel or smell like fuel. When I put the tank back, I didnt put the pipe that goes from the tank to the gas door, I think I might have some negative pressure and the pump is not keeping up with it, so I will have to put the pipe back and put the gas cap to build the pressure. Other than that the engine sounded strong as I was trying to cranked. I will have to give it a crank when I get the gas pipe back into place and keep troubleshooting until it does fire (run). So far I was happy to see I didnt get any coolant leaks. Does any one know how to take the air (purge) out of the coolant system?

Cheers

Monte

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Monte
Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.0 T 2008
Chevrolet Sprint CL 1991 Convertible 1.3 GTI
Honda Pilot EX 4WD 2006
Honda odyssey EX 2013


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 9:03 pm 
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the ecu expects to see a signal from the cas/ trigger module in the distributor. it needs that to get the ecu to trigger the ignitor which in turn fires the coil to make a spark. in turn, the brown wire that runs from the noise suppressor in line with the coil back to the ecu is the trigger event proof. that brown wire also feeds the tachometer drive.

if the module in the distributor doesn't provide a timing pulse or if the ignition feedback signal (brown wire) doesn't return a signal to the ecu, the ecu shuts down the injectors and fuel pump. that happens pretty fast, i think within 2 injector pulses.

the sequence is like this: key on, fuel pump runs priming pulse for 3 seconds and shuts down. while cranking, the fuel pump should run continuously as long as ignition events are detected. if ignition events are absent, the ecu shuts down the injectors and fuel pump.

check your tachometer needle. it should wiggle when you roll the key to the on position (where the instrument cluster turns on the idiot lights) as the ignitor powers up. when you crank the engine, the tachometer needle should deflect. you should be cranking at 150 to 200 rpms. if it doesn't wiggle or deflect like that, you probably aren't getting any fire to the plugs.

i've found that on the twincam swap to a 3 banger chassis, the hardest part to get right is the ignition circuit. that's where most guys have problems. you have to get the ignitor wired just right and you have to ditch the old chassis wiring to the instrument cluster for the tachometer. i use the old coil's switched electrical supply to power up the ignitor and coil, but run a new brown jump wire from the brown ignition feedback wire at the ecu to the connector for the instrument cluster wiring.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 12:18 pm 
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Hi T3,

Thanks for the quick feedback, I will check on that wire for sure, I will be playing with the car again this weekend. Do I have to bleed (purge) the fuel system? after all I had removed the gas tank including the hoses. I can hear the fuel pump rotate every time I get the ignition to the On position. I did move the ignition from off to on without starting the car just to get the fuel pump loaded with gas and get the hoses full of fuel (until I stop hearing the bubbling from the pump, meaning that the system was loaded with fuel, no more air in the pump).

What do you think ?

Cheers

E

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Monte
Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.0 T 2008
Chevrolet Sprint CL 1991 Convertible 1.3 GTI
Honda Pilot EX 4WD 2006
Honda odyssey EX 2013


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:09 pm 
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Hi everyone,

Happy New Year to everyone. I have not been able to complete my car, this is where I am at right now:

1) I am not getting any check engine light, I hear the beep and the brake light "lights" but no check engine light, not even a blink. I dont see a check engine light while on the "On" position, not even when trying to crank the engine. I have connected the oxigen sensor for the exhaust manifold from the 1.0 to the connector I was missing, I installed a temperature sensor to connect the temperature gauge.

2) I tried my old instrument cluster, just to take out the fact that it was a bulb problem on the check engine light, I didnt get nothing with the old cluster instrument.

3) I followed Suzuki's troubleshooting guide (suzuki swift user's guide) to see if there was power getting to the computer, I got good voltage readings for grown and important wires. I checked the voltage for the pins a13 and a15 on the computer, I got good readings for those

4) I have verified that the fuel pump is rotating (I can hear it rotate while in the "On" position of the ignition switch, I put a pipe inside the tank while trying to hear it rotate while cranking the engine, I hear the fuel pump rotate at that point and I hear the liquid moving along from the gas tank. But the car doesnt start. I am using the GTI fuel pump already installed on my car. I have cycled the car to the "On" position several times (without cranking the engine) just to make sure there is a steady amount on the gas lines, I can hear the fuel pump cycling every single time. I got almost half of tank of gas in the tank. The car doesnt start after all the cranking and cycling the fuel pump, I dont even smell gas after all the attempts.

5) I open the high pressure fuel line to verify gas was getting to the injectors, I got fuel to that point with pressure too.

6) I checked that the sparks were getting power by testing with one spark plug out of the engine and seen it spark.

7) I believe I got a faulty ECU and because of that I dont get a check engine light and the injectors are not getting power to inject the fuel as the fuel is there. Do you have any ideas on how to test the ECU?

8) I hear the engine cranking really strong, which it's good.

Any ideas or advice are greatly appreciate.

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Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.0 T 2008
Chevrolet Sprint CL 1991 Convertible 1.3 GTI
Honda Pilot EX 4WD 2006
Honda odyssey EX 2013


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 2:48 pm 
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So an update, I tested the ECU in another car (thanks to Cody76), my ECU is totally fine. Cody advise me to change the dashboard wiring harness from the one liter to the twincam 1989, that made a huge difference as two more connectors matched the main wiring harness and in the end the "Check engine" light worked. With the dash wiring harness changed, steering column too. I was able to crank the engine again, getting it to misfire and almost start. So I started playing with the timing on the distributor (the two bolts that allow to rotate the distributor). With that I was able to hear the engine almost starting, but still was misfiring. So I mark the original position of the distributor and started trying extreme to the back of the car (nothing, no even a misfire) then to the front of the car completely (I got misfiring and almost starting), so I tried half way but I got lots of misfiring too. So I went half way between half way and completely to the front, that got lots of misfiring too. I went half way of that last measure (1/8) to the front, but misfiring continued. Is there an easy way to get the timing right on the GTI engine?

At the same time I checked the computer codes and I got code 14 and 22. I did checked the throttle body sensor (connection and the device as well) everything is up to specs with the suzuki book. I checked Pin A5 and A7 for the temperature sensor as well, voltage shows fine.

So I believe the car is not starting because of the timing issue, however 14 and 22 show that once the car starts I might have idling problems. Any ideas?

Cheers

Monte

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Monte
Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.0 T 2008
Chevrolet Sprint CL 1991 Convertible 1.3 GTI
Honda Pilot EX 4WD 2006
Honda odyssey EX 2013


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:39 am 
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Can anyone confirm the dimensions for the mounting bracket? The picture link is broken and I can't read the thumbnail.
Also how thick should this plate be? 3/16"?

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Last edited by razr769 on Fri Jun 07, 2013 10:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:28 am 
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1/4" cold rolled about 7" long. it needs 3 holes on 2 1/16" center spacing. double check the spacing by measuring center to center the studs on the transmission side motor mount.

with those 3 holes, mount the motor mount through 2 holes on the bracket with one of the studs going through a hole on the arm of the original mount. the left over hole in the fabricated bracket takes another bolt through the original mount.
Image

in the pic above, the motor mount is shown in place. the open hole gets a suitable bolt to hold the fabricated bracket in place on the mounting arm.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 10:54 am 
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Awesome! Thank you T3

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