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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:50 pm 
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Location: Millbrook, Alabama
Ok, so today i went to drop my G13b into my Metro and i ran into a problem. I bought a complete mount set from a member, it was for a 5speed GTi. For some reason the drivers side bracket doesn't line up with the mount at all. The other two are fine, but this one is messed up. If i were to attach both the mount and bracket to the tranny it would be 3-4 inches in front(towards the headlights) of the hole where the mount was supposed to go.

Pics below...

Any ideas?

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Last edited by z34-5speed on Wed Mar 31, 2010 1:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:18 am 
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Location: Salem, OR
The mount looks exactly like the mount on my car, ill try to get some pics of it. you shouldnt have any problems with it though/ Ive found if you put that mount on before you bolt up rear it tends to go a little easier.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 3:19 pm 
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i've written this up so many times over the years that i really can't believe the topic isn't a stickie.

i've seen people drill new holes in the 3 banger chassis and use thru-bolts, i've seen people who got lucky with verts and peeled off an overlaid piece of thin steel to find the g13 mounting holes with welded nuts in the chassis tube, and i've seen people cut out the g13 chassis location and weld it into the 3 banger chassis.

the way i did it was to cut a 7" length of cold rolled flat steel, 2" x 3/8ths" and dril 3l holes 2" on center to accept the bolts of the actual motor mount (the rubber donut and it's housing.) then i offset the mount on the bracket using the fabricated plate, with one mount stud through the plate, the other stud through the plate and the transmission bracket, and the final, front hole of the plate to the transmission bracket using a suitable bolt.

using the adapter offsets the mounting by 2" which will maintain the drive axle geometry. that lets you make the offset without welding or spending a lot of time and trouble.

i hope that helps you out. :D

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:15 pm 
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Location: Oregon
When I went the other way I drilled through the frame rail and used a long bolt and nut. I used measurements from the donor car. Many thousands of miles w/ no problems. :D

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:39 pm 
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Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
if your car vin starts wtih JS the bolts should be there

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 8:09 pm 
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Location: Saint-Jérôme, Qc
Exactly. Only geos have no nuts for the 4 cylinder mount. I wish i took pics of inside the frame rail when i fixed my frame after a collision. There's a small bracket with holes and nuts already in the right location. Unfortunately if your car came out of the CAMI plant it doesn't have the 4cylinder nuts, but the holes are there behind the frame rail.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:05 pm 
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as i understood this, it was a north american market mk3 metro hatchback, originally a 3 banger. it's not likely to have either holes or welded nuts for the g13. the usa didn't have 4 banger metros until 95.

i've drilled holes and used bolts with bolt plates and nuts passed through a larger access hole from the fender well. that's time consuming and structurally invasive. the adapter plate is quicker and applies a longer lever arm for the tranny bracket which actually increases the mounting point's stability. you don't hack up the car and you can't see the adapter plate unless you really look hard from the bottom up.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 11:16 am 
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Location: Saint-Jérôme, Qc
did you look in your access hole? you should have seen a small flange about 3" x 5" with holes in it, spot welded inside the frame rail. the holes for the 4 banger should be already there on the flange, just the nuts missing.

I don't think drilling the frame rail is very structurally invasive, unless you make a mess of holes everywhere :lol: .

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 2:45 pm 
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Location: American Falls Idaho
When I did mine, I drilled a hole and welded a piece of pipe as a sleeve in the frame, then went straight through with a nut/bolt.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:22 pm 
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turbohull wrote:
I don't think drilling the frame rail is very structurally invasive, unless you make a mess of holes everywhere :lol: .


one for the center mount bolt, 3 for the metal hat, and a big one into the tube from the fender well to get nuts and big washers on from the back. those along with the original 3 banger mounting holes makes 9 holes to rust and weaken the monoqoque frame rail. :-P

i know all these ways work and some will say it's not hard, but i've done them all and extending the bracket mounting takes a fraction of the time. the drilling can be done on a drill press, off the car, where it's nearly impossible even to drill the frame rail with the engine in place like in his pic.

keep in mind that this is coming from a guy who agonized over every tiny detail of my own winter project. =) i used the bracket because i wanted to get my car on the road quick. i used the vert's brakes and late model sedan axles, too, finished the season with a lot of driving the car like that, and did the brakes and suspension the next spring. our summers are too short to not have your favorite car on the road. :D

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:03 pm 
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Location: Millbrook, Alabama
Would anyone be willing to make the bracket for me, I'd pay for any costs of course. I don't have access to any of the stuff needed to make a metal bracket. Just PM me if you are interested.

Thanks a bunch for the replies. I'm with Richard saying that this needs to be stickier or added onto the original thread.

Kyle

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 1:22 am 
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Alright, just tried to put the dash back in and i ran into a few more problems. I have a few plugs(from the dash) that don't match up with another plug on the firewall and vice versa. I didn't change the rear harness so i understand a few of the rear plugs not being the same but these are towards the middle of the dash/firewall. I am pretty sure which ones are for the radio. I also know which ones are for the gauge cluster.

Now on to my main question. Was i supposed to change the Metro fusebox over to the GTi fusebox?

Thanks,

Kyle

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92 Metro Turbo-G13b Swap - too much stuff to list
95 Metro 4/5 Sedan - Daily Driver Status
2014 BRZ Limited in WRB - The car payment


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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 3:12 pm 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
z34-5speed wrote:
Alright, just tried to put the dash back in and i ran into a few more problems. I have a few plugs(from the dash) that don't match up with another plug on the firewall and vice versa. I didn't change the rear harness so i understand a few of the rear plugs not being the same but these are towards the middle of the dash/firewall. I am pretty sure which ones are for the radio. I also know which ones are for the gauge cluster.

Now on to my main question. Was i supposed to change the Metro fusebox over to the GTi fusebox?

Thanks,

Kyle


Are you gonna be using the on dash buttons or you going the GTi route and using the steering column controls?

And as far as the fuse boxes, I changed mine over even though there appears to be no difference between them. I'm hoping there isn't any difference considering the GTi under dash fuse panel I got was slightly melted under one of the fuses.

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 3:21 pm 
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I plan on using all the dash controls that came on the Metro.

Kyle

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92 Metro Turbo-G13b Swap - too much stuff to list
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2014 BRZ Limited in WRB - The car payment


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:17 am 
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The car was badly crashed? :vibe: :huh:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 12:18 am 
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I haven't touched this car in 2 months, the heat has killed any motivation i had to finish it. I have the car pretty much back together, the wiring is still kicking my ass though. I don't understand why the GTi dash harness and GTi firewall harness is not matching up properly.

Kyle

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92 Metro Turbo-G13b Swap - too much stuff to list
95 Metro 4/5 Sedan - Daily Driver Status
2014 BRZ Limited in WRB - The car payment


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 2:57 am 
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Tell me about it 97+ with 90+ humidity...ugh


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 9:44 am 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
I ended up giving up on using the dash controls for my GTi. There were a ton of differences between the dash harnesses including a plugin for the interior fan on the Turbo3 harness vs direct wiring for the Swift. So i'm still using the Turbo3 dash, but i'm left with big holes on either side of the steering wheel where the dash buttons used to be. After all that I still had to hand it over to Codyb76 because my signals stopped working, my ignition wasn't working, the horn, the washer fluid motor, etc. He managed to get everything working peachy.

Now my only issue is the car likes to die randomly. After warming up for a couple kms, i'll get to a stop and the car will just dip and try to die. I can coax it back to life by revving it above 2500.

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2006 Scion xB (fun-mobile)
1990/92 Suzuki Swift GTi TURBO (The GTiT)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:52 am 
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Location: CA
have t3ragtop send me a sketch for your mount bracket with the bolt hole location dimensions and sizes, and I will make you one for free plus shipping cost. It will only take about 15 min. if I have the material on hand. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 2:16 am 
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T3 actually made me one already back in April. Thanks a bunch for offering Steeve!

The car is back together now, just trying to figure out some wiring issues.

Thanks again,

Kyle

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92 Metro Turbo-G13b Swap - too much stuff to list
95 Metro 4/5 Sedan - Daily Driver Status
2014 BRZ Limited in WRB - The car payment


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