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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2010 1:01 am
Posts: 36
Location: Washington state USA
Am looking for some one who has done this swap, most of the mechanical has been pretty straight forward but the electrical is a real pain , the engine bay connectors are different as is the under dash connector. I really don't want to swap the whole chassis harness if it is avoidable. Thanks in advance for any tips and all comments


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
i did the mk2 turbo3 swap to a mk3 vert. the premise is the same however the vert has more wiring (to support the steering wheel airbag.) then i did the mk2 turbo3 swap to a mk2 vert. the connectors match on that swap and it's basically plug and chug.

you're desired swap will only require that you use the mk2 turbo3 engine harness and swap the main power connector (located behind the battery, low on the left side inner fender, accessed from the engine bay) from the square mk3 connector to the round mk2 connector. the wiring colors and diameter sizes should be identical. you have to cut the mk2 harness and solder on the new connector that you cut from your car's existing engine harness.

you also need to replace the other connector on the mk2 turbo3 engine harness that plugs into the car's dash wiring at the steering column. that feeds the instrument cluster. again, wire diameters and colors match.

consult the wiring data from the mk2 turbo3 supplement found in the manuals section of the gallery (button at the top of the page, be logged into teamswift) and the wiring schematic for your car to verify the connections.

i have some pics of the wiring swap for the mk2 twincam to mk3 vert in my personal gallery. those have comments attached. if you imagine the work is being done for the turbo3 it might make something click for you. ignore the brown tach wire part, it's not applicable to your swap.

the part that might throw you off is the ignitor power and ground wiring. just use the switched power for the coil that's in your car now for switched power to the ignitor and run a new ground wire to a good chassis ground. the yellow and orange wires from the engine harness go to the ignitor connector and that makes all 4 wires.

it sounds more involved than it actually is as there aren't more than 20 wires to splice.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2010 1:01 am
Posts: 36
Location: Washington state USA
t3ragtop, thanks for the vote of confidence, I was wondering about the wire colors, if they should match, that helps a lot. I did pick up a instrument cluster from a 3 cylinder with a tach. that I plan to use, while taking it apart to clean up and reset the spedo to actual mileage I noticed it has the blue TURBO but no bulb behind it or wire in the harness at the plug so I'll need to study that also. I guess I better start by studying the wiring diagrams, thanks for the info,


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