TeamSwift

keywords: battery dead dying won't start won't hold charge no charge parasitic chronic voltage power drain door switch problem advisory bulletin FAQ

I'm authoring this FAQ, because this is a rather important issue detailing an otherwise small electrical malfunction that could leave a vehicle stranded due and cause a discharged battery, and no one else seems to have discovered my prior posts on the subject. If an admin could make this sticky that would be nice too. [EDIT: nevermind, did it myself ]
This is an FAQ based on my contributions to this thread:
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=42761#42761

On 2003 12 09 Lihtan wrote:


On 2003 12 09 Lihtan wrote:


On 2003 12 17 Lihtan wrote:

This problem seems to afflict MK3s, but I also severed the door switches on my MK2 just to be on the safe side.
The door switches govern warnings issued if the door is ajar, if the key is left in the ignition, or if the headlights are left on. The door switches also play a roll in the dome light's "auto" function. Some or all of the above may function sporatically or fail if the door switches are dying. When the doorswitches fail, they cause a dead short to ground which can quickly kill a battery, and burden the alternator when the engine is running. Symptoms to look for are

• trouble idling (low idle, sputtering, stalling)
• dimmer than normal lights
• lower than normal voltage levels (get yourself a voltage gauge)
• difficulty starting
• battery supposedly unresponsive to external charging
• battery responsive to external charging if removed from vehicle
• no parasitic drains present on any fused circuits
• alternator passes diagnostic tests
• not always alerted to "key in", "lights on" events
• false positive alerts for "door ajar" events
• malfunction of domelight

Disabling Your Door Switches:

• Remove rubber cap from switch, this may already be cracked or torn with age
• Pry switch out from door sill. The door switches may be a bit troublesome to remove, if you're having trouble it may help to remove the interior trim panels in the rear passenger area, and go at it from the back.
• Remove screw that is holding the wire to the switch
• Insulate end of wire with heatshrink tubing
• Shove wire back into hole
• Cover hole in sill. (a couple of piece of electrical tape will work for now)

Once the door switches are disabled you will no longer have warnings if you leave the headlights on, or the keys in the ignition. I've always seemed to notice if my headlights are on, and I have a habit of making sure I have keys in my hand before I lock *any* door. On the plus side you can now leave your door open when you're parked with the stereo on and not be hassled with that annoying beeping noise.
For those opposed to the idea of loosing your door switches thing about this: This is a convenience item that can leave you stranded and kill your battery. It *did* leave me stranded.

the real question everyons wants to know, where to get a nice rubber plug for that hole

The MK2s are the same way but it is the body not the switches that cause the problem. On my 90 metro the hole where the switch sits was rusted this caused it to not ground when the door was closed and set off the "key in alarm" that was anoying becouse for one I leve the keys in the ignition of my car most of the time and for two the key was hard to get out of the swtch cuse of the shifter thingy that only lets you remove the key with car in park was brokin and it took 3 hands most of the time to get the key out.

Take the housing off your shifter, there's an adjuster to set the cable tension for the park-ignition key lockout. If you have too much play in it you'll have problems trying to get your key out.

wow, I have every single one of those symptoms you described hah. I knew when I bought it the dome lights didnt work with the door jamb switches because they were rusty and I didnt really care cause the car was cheap and I needed a beater. But it starts hard, shudders, etc. I'll have to pull them out and unplug them.

This site is awesome, I'm glad I found it.

-Thomas

I just flipped my dome light switch to off to combat this problem. If I have the key in the ignition and the car off, it will beep at me if I bump the door but I am having no battery drains because of it.

Just thought I would throw that in incase someone doesnt feel like pulling all their door pins.

I never used my domelight, yet I found myself with a battery drain situation that was seriously pissing me off. I found it easy to say "bye bye door switches!"

Just cut or tape up the wire and put the pin switch back in disconnected.

Hmmm, do MK1's have these switches? cause this has happened to my 88 sprint and I have a new battery and it was tested good. And I changed my alternator with a spare one I had and it was tested and passed, yet I am still getting my battery drained and yesterday it started to stall out when I press the gas down and was idling extremely rough. I was thinking my carb could have been bad, but now it might be this.

the domelights in these cars suck anyways,ive always had issues with these little switches,no matter how clean i get them 2 or 3 weeks later the same problem,dim interior light or none at all,royal pain in the ass with car alarm/starter setups,i have replaced plastic switch with a metal door switch,drill new hole,use a speedy nut on the back(and some petroleum jelly to curb rust),hooks up same as plastic one,no issues to date,found chrome plugs at hardware store to plug old holes,use black tape on chrome plug edges to stop the rust from starting

I've also seen that when the door hinge (pins and bushings) get extremely worn, and don't get replaced, they keep the door from closing all the way. The driver will exit the car, shutting the door; hearing it click; and walks away. Problem is, upon returning the next day, the door had latched, but it didn't latch TWICE. Was the the door closed?-yes. Was it locked and secured so that no one could easily get in?-yes But was the door button down far enough to keep the domelight from coming on?-NO! The door and rear quarter panel even looked even until you went to pull on the locked door-then-VOILA! door is pooched out 1/4" from the side of the car; but still latched.

Proof that ole skool maintenance absolutely SLAUGHTERS those damn Gremlins

i used door hinge pins&c clips from a chevy chevette to fix worn hinges on my firefly,you can get new kits from most autoparts stores