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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 1:01 am 
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Location: Regina, SK
Ok...

Exhaust First:

The exhaust on my car is fried, it's leaking everywhere. Sounds like my car has one hell of a fart can. :lol:

My engine is the 1.3L SOHC.

What length of resonator should I go for? Should I just put a tape measure to the stock resonator.

I'm going to bolt magnaflow stuff all the way back... So 2" pipe it is.

Bushings:

My sway bar bushings are cracking and generally being quite shitty.

I can buy the Intrax Sway bars that come with replacement bushings, or is there a source for these bushings elsewhere?

Which bushings from the 94 and older cars(the swifts everyone else had) fit the 95 and up(north american only) cars?


I'm only making this thread, because my other one is long and filled with lots of info. I can't find any real resonator info except, don't use it, and you'll drive yourself bonkers on the highway. That and the whole bushings thing, is anyone sure about what fits what?

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 1:22 am 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
On my 98 I used the stock cat with a 2" glasspack, and 1 3/4", and 1 7/8" tubing, dumping just in front of the passenger side tire.
No muffler.
It sounds awesome
Everytime I raced it, I got comments.
Its quiet when driven normally, but makes all the right sounds when you step on it.
If you add a muffler, it will be quieter.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 6:30 am 
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Location: Washington, DC
Sway bar bushings are generic, nothing special about them except we only have two end link bushings on each side, most cars have four. I bought mine from JCWhitney.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 1:25 pm 
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Suprfly, are there pics of your setup?

How was the noise on the highway? I'm worried about the drone, I do highway driving everyday.

Ok, so just find some bushings, and stick em on. Is it worth upgrading the sway bars on my car?

Also as for the control arm bushings. I'm so very very confused on what fits. The dealer isn't cheap for these.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 2:03 am 
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Location: Los Angeles, Ca.
I dumped my exhaust the same way. I sounded so mean.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 5:25 am 
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You already have the biggest sway bars ever put on a Metro/Swift, a slightly bigger rear one might help a little with the understeer, but I wouldn't worry about it unless you're racing or autocrossing and actually experiencing a problem. Urethane bushings on the rear bar and rubber on the front would have the same effect. I also have a 98, I just ordered bushings for a GTI and they fit perfectly. They're a royal pain in the ass to install though, getting the stock bushings out of the control arms took hours of chiseling and the new ones must be pressed in with a hydraulic press.

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91 Pontiac Firefly Turbo
10 Suzuki Kizashi


Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:21 am 
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Well then as for the bushings, I'll pick up some poly ones for the rear, and get the bushings for the rest of the way around. I'm changing all four control arms anyways.

As for the muffler, I found a metal substrate one catalytic that should fit under our my car. :D

*sigh* now for SuzukiRD to ship my header. :roll:

New Q:

Oh and I have a rubbing sound coming out of the steering column when i turn the wheel either direction, and you can feel some drag. It comes and goes and seems to only happen after driving the car alot around town.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 10:36 am 
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Location: Regina, SK
Hey guys,

Looks like I have to change the front control arms on my car.

This is what I get for asking to take a look when they have my car up on the hoist changing tires.

I want to change the bolts to new less rusty ones, while I'm down there anyways. I'm also going to use the basic low test locktite to keep the threads from rusting up.

Do you guys happen to know what the bolts are that go in downthere? Also if you happen to know the bolts for the sway bar mounts it would be much appreciated.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 12:06 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
don't use locktite, use never sieze. those bolts are quite likely to snap while you're trying to remove them. have a drill, extractor, and tap ready.

the bolts are fine thread so have them ready before you start. even if they don't break when you remove them, run the tap to clean the threads before you install the new ones.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 5:09 pm 
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t3 ragtop wrote:
don't use locktite, use never sieze. those bolts are quite likely to snap while you're trying to remove them. have a drill, extractor, and tap ready.

the bolts are fine thread so have them ready before you start. even if they don't break when you remove them, run the tap to clean the threads before you install the new ones.


On the list: never seize

Now I hope someone knows the bolt sizes. Or I'm gonna have to sweet talk the dealer. :(

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:46 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
Bolts and threading are mostly generic. I haven't had the pleasure of taking the control arms off my car but the bolts (unless they have a collar) you can get at almost any hardware/auto parts store. As for bushings, if push comes to shove, buy oversize and dilegently shave them down with a razor knife until its comparable to stock.

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$100 95 Geo Metro Hatch, $150 91 Geo Metro Hatch, $300 90 Geo Metro Wagon, $250 98 Chevy Metro Hatch = Cheapest Fun Ever (All with 1.0's)

Suzuki G1.0, setting the bar for hybrids since 85'


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:07 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
i'm pretty sure that they are a 10mm x 1.25 grade 10, 55mm long on the front and 35mm on the rear.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:35 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
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Location: Regina, SK
The two bolts that have the piece of sheet metal acting as a lock washer which hold the bracket which holds the front bushing are M12 x 1.25 x 60mm 10.9 Nickle Plated.

The rear bushing ones are M10 x 1.25 x 35mm 10.9 Nickle Plated.

I don't know where you get your bolts from but up here pulling that kind of stuff isn't easy and it's all very special order.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 4:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11675
Location: columbus, ohio
true, 10mm and up in fine thread take some digging or a special construction. the local special fastener wholesaler here in columbus stocks blank bolts that they can custom thread.

sometimes it's nice living in a big city. :D

i remember that the last time i had to dig up the front bolts, i was mounting one of jard's lower tie bars and i replaced them with longer bolts.

right now i'm sorting through 10mm bolts for another member's project and all the numbers are boggling the old gourd! :lol:

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
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Location: Regina, SK
:lol: I know it can get mind boggling at times, since 8mm and below it's all standard threading... :lol:

Ah well, the couple dollars a piece for the 12mm bolts, sure beats the $120 a piece the dealer wants though. :blackeye:

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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