TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
It is currently Sun Oct 22, 2017 8:47 am

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 10:19 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2010 8:56 am
Posts: 16
Location: Augusta, GA
Hi guys, first time poster.

I just bought a 97 Metro Base 1.0L 3-cylinder 5 speed hatchback and I'm trying to get it fully ship shape. The check engine light is on and the mechanic I took it to told me that the Catalytic Converter was bad, and that there were codes for the EGR system. He suggested that I not spend the money to fix the problems if the car was running well. I read the FAQ on cleaning the EGR and I was wondering if everything that was in that post viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25919 applied to the 97. What would be the best place to buy a replacement Catalytic Converter for a 97 1.0L 3-cylinder?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 10:28 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:14 am
Posts: 1897
Location: Prince George B.C. Canada
'95 to '97 should be the same. You can purchase a cat a any automotive store (NAPA, Pep boys, etc...). Phone around to get the best price.

Ralph


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:02 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
Posts: 2433
Location: Regina, SK
http://www.hottexhaust.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=91004

Probably the cheapest you can find, and it will not trip any codes if you have a secondary O2 sensor.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 1:10 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2010 8:56 am
Posts: 16
Location: Augusta, GA
My mechanic warned me that non-oem cats can trip a warning light. I'm not exactly handy with cars (trying to learn). Is it worth it to use a direct fit cat or just go with the cheaper universal?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 1:50 pm 
Offline
The Smuggler
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2004 12:34 am
Posts: 2885
Location: Surrey, BC CANADA
epurvee wrote:
My mechanic warned me that non-oem cats can trip a warning light. I'm not exactly handy with cars (trying to learn). Is it worth it to use a direct fit cat or just go with the cheaper universal?


Bull crap if you buy a good brand Converter and not the cheapest one you can find on ebay, you will be ok.
Walker stands by there converters and build them to more than cover the emmissions on your car.

and FYI the Converter on your car was OE built by Tenneco who owns the brand Walker Exhaust.

Direct fit if available is just as good as a universal.
Only the universal will have to be welded into your system using the existing pipes.

Walker direct fit # is 55174 and meets the US federal emmissions standards. (Except California)

_________________
"I love the whine of a turbo in the mornin" 1991 Sprint Turbo
"I also love the 7500 rpm scream of a DOHC" :razz: 2X 1989 Swift GTi's a 92 and Jr's new 93 GT

Keep your eye on the boost guage!
And I love this one!
"Dale Jarrett's crew chief" "Drive it like ya STOLE IT!"
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:24 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
Posts: 2433
Location: Regina, SK
55174 also comes with the downpipe and the first section of pipe to be a direct bolt in replacement.

Quote:
My mechanic warned me that non-oem cats can trip a warning light. I'm not exactly handy with cars (trying to learn). Is it worth it to use a direct fit cat or just go with the cheaper universal?


The exhaust shop I went to, told me the same thing, then quoted me almost $2000.00 to replace the exhaust on a Beetle. I walked out, ordered the magnaflow replacement, a replacement downpipe, put in a free flowing muffler/resonator, stainless steel pipe, all welded up and installed, with no codes(98 Beetle and it's computer is far more fussy than the Suzuki one in yours) all for around a $1000.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 4:15 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
epurvee wrote:
My mechanic warned me that non-oem cats can trip a warning light. I'm not exactly handy with cars (trying to learn). Is it worth it to use a direct fit cat or just go with the cheaper universal?

Follow your mechanic's advice; he's the best one to learn from as well, not us.
If you take the advice from stranger's on a website over his, he might become angry and charge you exorbitant rates, eh?
So play it safe, and just do what he tells you.
After you've got some experience, or have read a great deal on the subject, you can either do the work yourself, or become an apprentice, eventually mastering the material needed to fix and repair all the systems in your car.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck!

:lol: :lol: :lol:

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 8:35 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:14 am
Posts: 1897
Location: Prince George B.C. Canada
Have a look at your exhaust system. If it's welded together and not bolted you may be better off having a shop weld in a universal cat but be careful of the amount they want to charge you for this. I have bought complete replacement exhaust from my local parts store (NAPA) from exhaust manifold back. It all bolts together and the cost for the complete system here (500 miles from the warehouses) was $480 Canadian including taxes.

Ralph.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:46 am 
Offline

Joined: Sun Feb 29, 2004 9:50 am
Posts: 48
Location: Tx
how can you tell if the convertor has gone bad, did it stasrt running bad?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 4:38 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:14 am
Posts: 1897
Location: Prince George B.C. Canada
greenmachine wrote:
how can you tell if the convertor has gone bad,


It stays out late, won't tell you where it's been, it smells of beer and has tobacco stains on the heat shield. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group