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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 5:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:21 pm
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Location: Cleveland
Two parter here... If I wanted a mechanical coolant temperature gauge on my 1.0, where could I install the sender on the engine? For oil pressure, looks like there's a plug next to the pressure switch I could pull out and use, or tee into the pressure switch.

Part two is I'm using this engine in a UTV build so there's no heater core. Can I just plug the outlets from the intake manifold or do I need to splice the two together to prevent a blockage? What about the other coolant hoses that run from the coolant pipe into the manifold? Is that just an emissions thing to heat the incoming air? Can I just plug all that?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:31 pm 
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Location: Regina, SK
Ugh... Such silly questions.

You can plug the heater core lines, if you look at the system you'll see it's an additional loop that is bypassable.

The ECU uses the intake temp to gauge when the engine is warm, and lets it enter closed loop, the engine will run like absolute ass without the intake being heated. It also helps atomize the fuel, and without the heat the gas will puddle in the intake.

Install the water temp sender where the factory gauge sensor goes, since you won't be using it.

Also, there is a plug on the right side of the oil pump which you can remove and you can install an oil pressure gauge in.

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J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:21 pm
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Location: Cleveland
Isn't there only one temp sender that's used for both the gauge and the ECU? I definitely only see one at the water neck.

And I know you can typically just plug heater hose ports but I was afraid that would block flow through the intake. I guess I didn't look at the routing that close.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 9:28 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
to keep things simple, i'd just run a hose between the 2 ports on the coolant pickup tube to bypass the heater core. leave the smaller hoses in place on the intake manifold/ throttle body for the reasons stated above.

the ecu has a temp sender for it's very own, the fan has a thermoswitch, and the factory temp gauge has it's own sending unit. it might be as easy to use a custom hose adapter (28mm) in the top radiator hose for the additional water temp gauge.

there's a good cutaway view of the g10 oiling system archived in the gallery. i just attached in to post a few days ago. looking at that will show where you can get an accurate oil pressure reading.
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 6:14 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:21 pm
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Location: Cleveland
Thanks for the diagram, that's really helpful.

I'm still confused on the coolant temp sensor(s). Where is the fan switch sensor, gauge sensor, and ECU sensor located? All I see is the one at the water neck and the Mitchell wiring diagram I have shows that one wire is used for the gauge and the other two wires of the same sensor are used for the ECU signal. This is a '99 engine, by the way. Sounds like I may be able to just tee into the hose, though. I will try to find/make a tee with a threaded boss.

For the heater core, I think I have to just plug the port on the intake. I had to cut down the steel inlet tube for clearance (CVT at the back of the engine) so the heater core port that was on that tube is now gone.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 10:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
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Location: Regina, SK
You can use the 4 cylinder water tube as well, since it is much shorter.

The factory temp sender for the gauge cluster, is a single flat blade connector.

Quote:
It's installed in the Thermostat housing.


There are two coolant temp sensors, and the air charge temp sensor, all three are two wires.

Quote:
1 Installed in the Throttle body
1 Installed in the Thermostat Housing <- Turns on the Rad fan.
The Air charge temp sensor tends to be installed in the air cleaner assembly.


So you have 3 two wire temp sensors and most likely one single blade temp sensor(this is the one you can remove).

Ukraine Train wrote:
Isn't there only one temp sender that's used for both the gauge and the ECU? I definitely only see one at the water neck.


They tend to be 3 or 4 pin sensors in that case, not 2 pin. The GF's Beetle uses a combo ECU/Gauge unit and a seperate Fan control.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 5:50 pm 
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Location: Cleveland
I really hope I'm just having a dumb moment and not seeing what you're talking about as it would make life easier for me to have an extra port, but I really do only have one port. It is at the water neck and it has three wires. According to the wiring diagram, two wires go to the ECU and one goes to the cluster gauge. Are you thinking of an earlier model maybe? Here's a link to a big picture I have of the engine. You can sort of see the sensor in the water neck behind the red and blue EGR solenoid connectors. I don't see anything like a coolant temp sensor on the intake. http://fabiens.org/gallery/d/21281-1/IMG_7123.JPG

My plan now is to weld a bung into a short section of pipe and plumb that in line near the water neck.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:21 pm
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Location: Cleveland
Well I ended up making a tee for the radiator hose just after the water neck so that's all buttoned up. But, I went to install the fitting for the oil pressure gauge in the hole for the factory oil pressure switch and it doesn't fit. The fitting appears to be just a tiny bit too big. It has the same thread pitch as the pressure switch and fits fine in some other 1/8" NPT fittings I have but won't go in the block. I tried putting the pressure switch into some NPT fittings and it went in but really loose. Is the factory switch not a regular pipe thread? Some Japanese standard maybe?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 5:10 pm 
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Location: Regina, SK
I believe it's the British pipe standard thread.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:21 pm
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Location: Cleveland
I think you're right. I looked it up and it's just a little smaller diameter. I'll try to find a BSP to NPT adapter.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:21 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Cleveland
McMaster had the fitting I need. Funny how there are two tapered thread standards that are so similar...
Image

Here's the tee I made for the temperature sensor.
Image

And here's how I routed the coolant feed line. I even retained both coolant lines into the intake.
Image

Gauges installed!
Image


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