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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:11 pm 
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Looks like I'm getting a '92 vert this week, plan is to drop the 1.3 16V into it and supercharge it with an eaton M62.
Using the 98+ SOHC will give me the heavier crankshaft and 9.5 compression ratio dished pistons. I have the complete wiring harness from a '99 HB that I will be using instead of the '92 factory wiring. I'm also planning on a head job/cam from 3Tech with some nice head bolts. I also have a 4 gear differential off a swift I'm going to substitute into the trans.

At what point would crank scraper and/or oil squirters be recommended? Also if anyone has any other tips/suggestions they are welcome. Future plans include a gas/propane hybrid kit, megasquirt ECU, and possible AWD conversion.

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'99 Metro Sedan Auto 4cyl, '91 Metro Vert 3/5, '91 Metro 5dr 3cyl auto


Last edited by Mcmancuso on Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 6:44 pm 
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Here's a pic of the new diff :) One of the members on geometroforum in alaska sent it to me, came out of a trashed trans, the bearings are bad, but the gears are in great condition(excluding the ring gear, which I already took off) Nice step up from the 3 gear metro diff.
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Does anyone know if the later model (95+) 3-cyl, with the 4.39 ratio trans, use the wider ring/pinion gear like the later 4-cyl 3.79 ratio?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:29 am 
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Hope the diff was cheap, its a stock diff, same as every metro,swift, firefly 89-2000 came with :D Not sure what the whole 3 gear thing is all about? The "planet" or carrier is slightly heavier in turbo and gti diffs, but spider gears etc are all the same. (I can't say for a fact, but pretty certain the mk1 turbos did have a different and stronger spider gear setup, but I havent had one of those trannies apart to confirm).
The 3.79 gears are not wider, just different tooth count. I have 3,79, 4.10, 4.39's and they either the exact same, or very close to the same.
With a supercharger, you may want to run 3.52's or 3.79's, 4.39's are pretty short. I have a mild 16v with cam and 4.39's and first gear works great, but with a blower it would only be good for a short tirespin then bouncing off the rev limiter! Sounds like a very cool project, just the swap to the 16v will really wake that car up, its a torquey mill.
I think the crank you would be wanting is the 1.3 dohc crank, its the strongest one of the g13 family, I don't think the 1.3 16v one is the same? Adding the main cap braces from a twin cam may be a good and simple addition for strength as well.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:18 pm 
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Diff was free, including shipping, I thought I had read the swift diff was beefier than the metro, anyway, it was free so I'm not worried about it.

The 98+ 16v has a solid crank, not sure if its forged or not, I also don't know if it uses the forged rods, so gotta check that out too, I'm definitely in the market for some GTi rods if not.
I'll look into the cap braces, maybe I can find a worn out DOHC to harvest some internals out of.

Also, I currently have a set of GTi front brakes, looking for rear disc setup, and I'll be running 185/60/15's or so on it, I have some 195/60/15's on my mk5 sedan, but they rub a bit at certain turn angles. The larger wheels will make up for running the shorter gear ratio.

I probably stuck this in the wrong topic, could one of the mods bump this thread over to engine swaps?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:21 pm 
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Lools like I've got a GT block and crank sourced, the block probably needs to be bored. Is there any consensus on going .020" over or just going up to 75mm vitara pistons? Also will either 16v sohc or vitara pistons work with GT rods without modification?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 4:25 pm 
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Location: texas
this may sound insane but here goes. I am looking to transplant a 1.0 from a geo metro with 5speed in a ploaris ranger. My question is is it possable to achieve a final drive ratio closer to 2:1. My ranger has a final drive ratio of 3.7 and I need to be somewhere around a 7 final:final drive for everything to work.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 5:10 am 
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gm021673 wrote:
this may sound insane but here goes. I am looking to transplant a 1.0 from a geo metro with 5speed in a ploaris ranger. My question is is it possable to achieve a final drive ratio closer to 2:1. My ranger has a final drive ratio of 3.7 and I need to be somewhere around a 7 final:final drive for everything to work.


This may sound insane but I'd like all new posters to read the initial thread and then read the above question and ask yourself "what has that got to do with this topic"? Come on newbie's, read the rules for posting!! If you have a question that you can't find the answer for by SEARCHING (this question probably fits that profile), start a thread!! Don't post a question in someone Else's thread that has nothing to do with the topic of your question.

This is nothing personal gm021673 but I've noticed a lot of questions posted in the wrong thread or posted numerous times (both against the rules), or that can easily be answered with a quick search, from quite a large number of new posters lately. THIS SITE HAS RULES!! Read them first then post a topic if you can't find the answer and more people may be willing to respond to your questions (whether you like what they have to say, or not).

Try and keep the threads "on topic" so the next person, who is actually searching, doesn't need to weed through posts that are irrelevant to their search.

Sorry again gm021673 to be "Mr. Nasty" on your post but I've been thinking this needed to be said for a while and now it's been said.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 12:54 am 
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any updates ?

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Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 7:41 pm 
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Mostly buying parts, saving up money. Not a lot of progress on the 16v swap, but I've been working on the car until I get the engine together. I've got a thread over in the 'vert section on the car there until I get the engine together. This thread should probably be moved over to the engine swap section instead of the mk4/5 section.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 1:50 am 
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I am smack in the middle of the same swap! Got the engine broken down and waiting for 3tech parts to get it all back together. One thing.... My donor car is a 1998 metro 16v and the crank is definitely not solid. Has holes straight through where the connecting rods er... connect. It does still feel very stout and no doubt strong enough for my purposes but I was just wondering if there were others that came differently.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:27 pm 
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I don't want to hijack your thread but since this is what I wanted to do and others also , I'd like to let people know that I have everything needed to do this swap that I need to sell. I found a perfect Swift GT that I'm going to use instead.

Ken....


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 1:29 pm 
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:poke: no problem.

Does anyone know if the 1.3 SOHC pistons will fit the DOHC rods?
Also, vitara pistons, what's necessary to run them?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 5:41 pm 
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as far as i know, the sohc pistons don't fit the twincam rods due to different heights for the locations of the wrist pins. the wrist pin clips are different, too, i think.

to clarify, are you talking about the sohc 16v or the 8 valve 1.3?

again, as far as i know, the vitara pistons fit the twincam rods but are 75mm diameter vs. the 74mm g13 bore.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:08 pm 
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im really interested in this!!! since im doing a 1.3 SOHC 16v on a mk1 any info you can get make sure to post it here :D

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