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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 11:10 am 
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Location: Regina, SK
Writing or marks always face up, unless specifically directed otherwise.

8)

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 9:07 am 
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Location: Orlando, FL
Ok, got the pistons in, rod caps back in place. Ready to get the oil pan back on, but first made a trip to Harbor Freight for this 1/4" torque wrench:
Image

I normally would not buy a Harbor Freight torque wrench except the reviewers say this one works for the price of $20. It's going to be a bit of a chore to return it back to zero before setting a new torque value. Oh well.
Time to get to that oil pan this morning. I wish the machine shop would hurry up and get my cylinder head done. It's been 2 weeks, they said only needed 1 week to finish it.

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'92 Infiniti G20 sr20ve 5 speed a/c
'95 Geo Metro 3/5


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 10:33 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Good score on the torque wrench.
I've been meaning to get one.
From all the reading I've done on their site a while back, you're supposed to set it back to zero each time you use it.
Make sure your parts are clean and dry.
Use of those new fangled parts cleaners (not petroleum based) for the final cleaning.
Since I started using it, nothing seems to leak or vibrate apart.
(Apologies to the Harley Davidson crowd)
:lol:

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 1:11 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
it's not just that harbor freight click stop torque wrench that needs to be returned to zero each time you dial up a new torque. i have a pretty expensive snap-on torque wrench that requires the same operation.

dialing it back every time removes the tension on the spring. you have to make sure that you turn it back to zero for storage as well.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:01 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
Got my cylinder head back today:
Image
Image

And now.......
Image

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'95 Geo Metro 3/5


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 4:30 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
I'm sure it's been talked about but I noticed there are bosses on top of the intake ports. These are for fuel injectors? If not, would be a good spot for them.

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'92 Infiniti G20 sr20ve 5 speed a/c
'95 Geo Metro 3/5


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 3:11 am
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Location: Orlando, FL
The machinist who worked on the cylinder head said to get this so I bought one. It's a Stant Superstat. The machinist says it's a "fail safe" part, he meant if it fails then it fails open instead of closed.

Image

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 1:25 pm
Posts: 88
Location: new york
hi..... hows the rebuild project?

threads like these beef up my courage on doing mine myself, and thanks for that !!!!

btw, have you bought any valve compressor and valve keeper remover installer? or did you make one yourself.... i am having a hard time locating the threads that instructs on how to make one.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 2:06 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
Hey thanks. I removed the valve keepers myself with a socket and hammer. Just tap and the keeper "falls" out of place. I was able to take the head apart and took it all into the machine shop to finish up. Next time though I will do it all myself.

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'92 Infiniti G20 sr20ve 5 speed a/c
'95 Geo Metro 3/5


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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 5:58 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
Got the motor all put together. ooh ahh, shiny new head bolts:
Image

Then I realized that the cam sprocket was 180 off. I used the red mark as the timing reference. Took it all apart and used the blue mark as the timing reference. Please check my timing marks. I've got the disty all the way to the right to get the motor idling as best as possible. Performance is a little sluggish. Might just be due to rings breaking in still. Is my cam timing retarded or advanced?

Image
Image
Image

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'95 Geo Metro 3/5


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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 11:39 pm 
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Turn the crank 360 and your cam sprocket won't be 180 degrees out.

Also that SuperStat is not a failsafe thermostat. The ones that lock open when they fail have other sheetmetal bits. I think the superstats just have a beefier wax pellet.

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1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days


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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 10:02 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 3:11 am
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Location: Orlando, FL
Well I've been running the car up and down my street every day. Can't get it licensed yet. We just found out my wife has cancer and she needs treatment soon. So, I can't justify spending on licensing and insurance.

But it may have to happen. We got into an accident with our G20 back on 5/10. We were rear-ended, and the guy took off on us. I did get the license plate though and Florida Highway Patrol is investigating. The trooper said the vehicle does not belong to him. So....I'm hoping beyond hope that the registered owner has insurance. I'm checking with an attorney this week on that.

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'92 Infiniti G20 sr20ve 5 speed a/c
'95 Geo Metro 3/5


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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 3:53 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
I just sold the car. The guy is taking the drivetrain out and putting it into an ultralight plane. Oh well. Time to find an even cheaper replacement and start over.

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'95 Geo Metro 3/5


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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 3:56 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
oldman wrote:
I just sold the car. The guy is taking the drivetrain out and putting it into an ultralight plane. Oh well. Time to find an even cheaper replacement and start over.

See, it's smart to post pictures of your build thread on line.
The new owner can see he's getting a new engine!

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 5:11 pm 
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oldman you need part #3 i might have one for ya

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 9:48 am 
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oldman wrote:
Phil N Ed wrote:
Are those the right pistons?


That's what I'm wondering. The 1.3 uses the same bore but different stroke. Wish I could find piston dimensions differences between the 1.0 and 1.3. Or is the stroke difference all in the rod dimensions?


Just to be sure someone doesn't read this and think its right, the 1.0 and 1.3 have the SAME bore and stroke and rod length, the 1.3 has ONE MORE PISTON than the 1.0. The 1.6 has the same bore but a longer stroke(crank side) than the 1.0/1.3.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:15 am 
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Location: Orlando, FL
Ok, thanks, that's good to know. I assumed the info on kbb.com was correct. Comparing the 1994 Geo Metro 1.0 and the 1998 Chevrolet Metro 1.3 they say the strokes are 3.03 and 2.97, respectively.

http://www.kbb.com/compare-cars/specs/1994-geo-metro-9167-vs-1998-chevrolet-metro-6245/

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:21 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
http://geometroforum.com/topic/4360599/1/
Yep
http://geometroforum.com/topic/4338819/1/
Sad.
:-P

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 12:03 pm 
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Sad but True...

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Location: Saskatchewan
sorry to hear about the trouble you are having with the accident and the sick wife, I was just popping in to say that was one quick sentra, but now im sad to hear all this happened

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1996 Metro Build QR25de swap, still undecided where to take it
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 6:23 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=514838&t=4360599
Let's see,
$3.91 twice plus tax makes it around $9 for a couple of dowel pins that you could have made yourself for 10 cents.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=39926
Hard to believe that a guy who would take the time to
file his rings
port his head, etc.
wouldn't take the time to knock out a couple of simple locator dowels.
:thwack:
They don't do anything once the head bolts are in place.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 11:47 am 
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Location: Orlando, FL
The rest of that story is that I would have to purchase a hacksaw, a quality drill bit in that size you mention, and the steel rod. So...a 10 cent job turns out to cost more than what it was worth.

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'92 Infiniti G20 sr20ve 5 speed a/c
'95 Geo Metro 3/5


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 1:04 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
oldman wrote:
The rest of that story is that I would have to purchase a hacksaw, a quality drill bit in that size you mention, and the steel rod. So...a 10 cent job turns out to cost more than what it was worth.


You can always put the next head on without those dowels, as they are not necessary.

Yes, it was a sad ending getting rear ended and having to sell all your hard work to someone who just took it apart again. I was hoping for a more 'high compression' happy ending! 8)
You're the first person I've run across who has done extensive engine work and doesn't own a hacksaw.

Keep a closer eye on the fellow doing your machine work (machinist). He should be held accountable for those dowels if you feel they are important in the engine reassembly. They routinely replace those dowels with a special (probably too expensive for you to buy) tool.

Regarding the making of your own dowels:

Try not to put too many road blocks in your life and have a more positive outlook.
A kind neighbor who is aware of your perilous financial situation would probably let you use the tools I mentioned, and a piece of rolled stock can be had for a buck. The dowel fix I've posted can be done for a few cents per dowel. The entire procedure would only take 5 minutes of your time.

Finally:

Best regards to your wife.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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