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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:02 pm
Posts: 644
Location: North Florida
The '98 Metro Gas Gauge has always been slow to respond. Since the levels indicated have been accurate & it's seemingly run on empty so many times, I've gotten used to it being slow.

What happens slow is the response after filling up. I may drive 2-3 miles before the needle finishes climbing from very nearly empty to well above full. May be slower now than in Summer heat.

But is this normal, or sign gas gauge is about to give up the ghost & freeze at some arbitrary level, like a clock in an earthquake?

Tried TEAMSWIFT Search. Gave up after scanning 2 pages w/only 2 references to gas gauge.

Guessing there may be damping in the gauge to keep needle steady, or some kind of wear/binding in float sensor in tank?

_________________
2000 Chevy Metro 3 cylinder 5 speed 3 door hatch
1998 Chevy Metro 3 cylinder 5 speed 3 door hatch
1998 Chevy Lumina APV
1998 Ford F-150 4X4 XLT
1992 Ford E-150 Club Wagon Chateau
1991 SAAB 900S 5 speed
1987 SAAB 900 Turbo SPG
1985 SAAB 900 Turbo SPG
1974 SAAB Sonett III
1971 SAAB 96 modified to 1980 specs
1966 SAAB 96
1960 SAAB 93F
1958 SAAB 93B
1964 Willys JEEP CJ-5
1954 Willys JEEP M-170 military ambulance
1953 Grumman Kurbside step van


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 2:11 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2004 11:30 pm
Posts: 1706
Location: Rivendell
Ever thought it might be the sender in the tank?
try searching for that, or maybe woodruff???

_________________
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.HP is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how much you push the wall out.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 12:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:02 pm
Posts: 644
Location: North Florida
FYI: In general terms here "float sensor in tank" is essentially the same as "sender in the tank".

Old3banger wrote:
Guessing there may be damping in the gauge to keep needle steady, or some kind of wear/binding in float sensor in tank?


ellpee wrote:
Ever thought it might be the sender in the tank?


Thanx. Guess you think it's "slow to respond" too? Searching "sender in the tank" was about as fruitful as before. Didn't see any reference to gas guage "slow to respond" only faulty reading issues. Is long term "slow to respond" a symptom of a "float sensor in tank" going bad?

Was excellent 'How To' on R&R fuel pump/sender, if float sensor quit. Alternative fixes included open guage cluster & move needle up & down w/finger, credit 'waking it up' for fix & open guage cluster & pull needle off, then w/full tank, turn key back on & reinstall needle in full position. Jab thrown into space.

Can anyone confirm how fast '98 Metro gas gauge needles usually move to full after fill up?

That's the Q here. What's normal? Does gas gauge normally rise from empty to full in a split second when you turn key on after fill up? Or climb gradually over several seconds? Or more slowly requiring a minute or 2?

_________________
2000 Chevy Metro 3 cylinder 5 speed 3 door hatch
1998 Chevy Metro 3 cylinder 5 speed 3 door hatch
1998 Chevy Lumina APV
1998 Ford F-150 4X4 XLT
1992 Ford E-150 Club Wagon Chateau
1991 SAAB 900S 5 speed
1987 SAAB 900 Turbo SPG
1985 SAAB 900 Turbo SPG
1974 SAAB Sonett III
1971 SAAB 96 modified to 1980 specs
1966 SAAB 96
1960 SAAB 93F
1958 SAAB 93B
1964 Willys JEEP CJ-5
1954 Willys JEEP M-170 military ambulance
1953 Grumman Kurbside step van


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 7:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2011 10:53 pm
Posts: 645
Location: brainerd MN
My two cents; (opinions from me is always free and I always guarantee you your moneys worth. :lol: :lol: :lol: )
I have sold over 300 metros.{Dealer} (new and old) when one is operating properly you can go to the gas station , fill it up, go in and pay, (Or take a Whizz) or buy a big gulp, come back get in the car, and fire it up. by the time you have moved 100 feet the needle should be where it belongs, If Not.......
1)(Although you have done most of my step 1 already,) My 1st and most likely guess is to replace the fuel pump and sending unit in its entirety. {With Float} (Why not? The gas tank is down and your in the neighborhood anyway, so its no additional labor :dunno: ) this is a common metro/swift problem, so its a great place to start.(I would give you 75% odds this would fix it.)(Change the gas filter while your in the neighborhood to.{Totally unrelated,But always a great Idea})
2) Go to your Nearest Junkyard, (Scratch that and insert "Automotive recycling facility") {Correction care of the "Politically correct" Police :thwack: } and get a Complete Gauge cluster (About $35.00 here locally, If I pull it myself) From a "Wrecked"
one similar to your car, that was in decent shape before its accident. (I would prefer wrecked to scrapped as wrecked implies having been in decent shape before an accident, where scrapped implies driven till it wouldn't drive anymore, and let go for the last year or two before it died.){read; more likely to have the same problem, your trying to fix} Then plug the gauges in But DO NOT put your dash back together. With everything plugged in, but hanging there loosely, Fire it up and see if Your "NEW/USED" Gauge did the trick. if so slap the dash together and go on your way, Or pull just the Gas gauge and swap it into your cluster, If it doesn't fix it unplug it and return to the salvage yard. (Maybe try another to make sure???)
If this doesn't help, I'll refund my consulting fee fully, plus another 50% :lol: :lol: :lol:

Best wishes and Good Luck, Jonathan

_________________
Current stable:
1987 Sprint Turbo (Porsche Guards Red) 75k 5sp,AC, w/cruise, Resto-Mod,owned since 1997) (looking for dash-pad)
1989 GTI (white)104k 5sp,AC (Resto-mod completed 1999). (looks great, But rusted out ,need clean southern body.)Help!?
1991 Vert (red) 129k 5sp,AC, Resto-Mod, 75% Done.(Clean SW car)
1993 GT(Teal) 103k 5sp,AC,w/PW (Resto-Mod,60% done.)(Clean SW car)
1994 Swift GS 4Dr sedan (Painted 2005 Ford Kona Blue) 95k 1.3 SOHC 5sp


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:37 am
Posts: 1059
Location: Vancouver, Best Cannabis
Old3banger wrote:
FYI: In general terms here "float sensor in tank" is essentially the same as "sender in the tank".

Old3banger wrote:
Guessing there may be damping in the gauge to keep needle steady, or some kind of wear/binding in float sensor in tank?


ellpee wrote:
Ever thought it might be the sender in the tank?


Thanx. Guess you think it's "slow to respond" too? Searching "sender in the tank" was about as fruitful as before. Didn't see any reference to gas guage "slow to respond" only faulty reading issues. Is long term "slow to respond" a symptom of a "float sensor in tank" going bad?

Was excellent 'How To' on R&R fuel pump/sender, if float sensor quit. Alternative fixes included open guage cluster & move needle up & down w/finger, credit 'waking it up' for fix & open guage cluster & pull needle off, then w/full tank, turn key back on & reinstall needle in full position. Jab thrown into space.

Can anyone confirm how fast '98 Metro gas gauge needles usually move to full after fill up?

That's the Q here. What's normal? Does gas gauge normally rise from empty to full in a split second when you turn key on after fill up? Or climb gradually over several seconds? Or more slowly requiring a minute or 2?


mine is not instant. requires 2-4 minutes to register back to where it should go.

_________________
Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 8:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:37 am
Posts: 1059
Location: Vancouver, Best Cannabis
Prairie to Pine Co. wrote:
My two cents; (opinions from me is always free and I always guarantee you your moneys worth. :lol: :lol: :lol: )
I have sold over 300 metros.{Dealer} (new and old) when one is operating properly you can go to the gas station , fill it up, go in and pay, (Or take a Whizz) or buy a big gulp, come back get in the car, and fire it up. by the time you have moved 100 feet the needle should be where it belongs, If Not.......
1)(Although you have done most of my step 1 already,) My 1st and most likely guess is to replace the fuel pump and sending unit in its entirety. {With Float} (Why not? The gas tank is down and your in the neighborhood anyway, so its no additional labor :dunno: ) this is a common metro/swift problem, so its a great place to start.(I would give you 75% odds this would fix it.)(Change the gas filter while your in the neighborhood to.{Totally unrelated,But always a great Idea})
2) Go to your Nearest Junkyard, (Scratch that and insert "Automotive recycling facility") {Correction care of the "Politically correct" Police :thwack: } and get a Complete Gauge cluster (About $35.00 here locally, If I pull it myself) From a "Wrecked"
one similar to your car, that was in decent shape before its accident. (I would prefer wrecked to scrapped as wrecked implies having been in decent shape before an accident, where scrapped implies driven till it wouldn't drive anymore, and let go for the last year or two before it died.){read; more likely to have the same problem, your trying to fix} Then plug the gauges in But DO NOT put your dash back together. With everything plugged in, but hanging there loosely, Fire it up and see if Your "NEW/USED" Gauge did the trick. if so slap the dash together and go on your way, Or pull just the Gas gauge and swap it into your cluster, If it doesn't fix it unplug it and return to the salvage yard. (Maybe try another to make sure???)
If this doesn't help, I'll refund my consulting fee fully, plus another 50% :lol: :lol: :lol:

Best wishes and Good Luck, Jonathan


actually in the MK5 cars (98-01) the fuel filter is integrated right into the fuel sending unit (aka fuel pump assembly) making it a big job just to replace the damn filter.

_________________
Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 8:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:10 pm
Posts: 880
Location: Vancouver, WA
TheSilverBullet wrote:
Old3banger wrote:
FYI: In general terms here "float sensor in tank" is essentially the same as "sender in the tank".

Old3banger wrote:
Guessing there may be damping in the gauge to keep needle steady, or some kind of wear/binding in float sensor in tank?


ellpee wrote:
Ever thought it might be the sender in the tank?


Thanx. Guess you think it's "slow to respond" too? Searching "sender in the tank" was about as fruitful as before. Didn't see any reference to gas guage "slow to respond" only faulty reading issues. Is long term "slow to respond" a symptom of a "float sensor in tank" going bad?

Was excellent 'How To' on R&R fuel pump/sender, if float sensor quit. Alternative fixes included open guage cluster & move needle up & down w/finger, credit 'waking it up' for fix & open guage cluster & pull needle off, then w/full tank, turn key back on & reinstall needle in full position. Jab thrown into space.

Can anyone confirm how fast '98 Metro gas gauge needles usually move to full after fill up?

That's the Q here. What's normal? Does gas gauge normally rise from empty to full in a split second when you turn key on after fill up? Or climb gradually over several seconds? Or more slowly requiring a minute or 2?


mine is not instant. requires 2-4 minutes to register back to where it should go.



Same here.

_________________
98 swift 1.6 16v swap
03 cobra bolt ons
97 3000gt vr4 e85, high comp, bolt ons
too many others to list


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:02 pm
Posts: 644
Location: North Florida
Thanx PtoP Co, but if the Metro gas guage hadn't registered "by the time you have moved 100 feet" - not even out gas station driveway, I probably would never notice. If guage ever sticks, showing fuel, until Metro runs out of gas, I'd go for your "If Not......."

Prairie to Pine Co. wrote:
My two cents; when one is operating properly..... by the time you have moved 100 feet the needle should be where it belongs, If Not.......

replace the fuel pump and sending unit in its entirety

this is a common metro/swift problem, so its a great place to start

Change the gas filter

Go to your Nearest Junkyard.... and get a Complete Gauge cluster (About $35.00 here locally


VERSUS

Old3banger wrote:
I may drive 2-3 miles before the needle finishes climbing from very nearly empty to well above full


TheSilverBullet wrote:
mine is not instant. requires 2-4 minutes to register


VR4 wrote:
Same here.


May be common behavior? Seems benign, been fairly stable. Not case of used to register in "100 feet" & now takes miles/minutes. I'm in the: If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It mode, while it continues to register accurately. Guage might have registered that slow since it was new?

Unless they normally registered in "100 feet" when new, but are now prone to gumming up & wearing out, w/slowing down a precursor to failure.

_________________
2000 Chevy Metro 3 cylinder 5 speed 3 door hatch
1998 Chevy Metro 3 cylinder 5 speed 3 door hatch
1998 Chevy Lumina APV
1998 Ford F-150 4X4 XLT
1992 Ford E-150 Club Wagon Chateau
1991 SAAB 900S 5 speed
1987 SAAB 900 Turbo SPG
1985 SAAB 900 Turbo SPG
1974 SAAB Sonett III
1971 SAAB 96 modified to 1980 specs
1966 SAAB 96
1960 SAAB 93F
1958 SAAB 93B
1964 Willys JEEP CJ-5
1954 Willys JEEP M-170 military ambulance
1953 Grumman Kurbside step van


Top
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