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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:51 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Markham ON
"I never thought it would happen to me". When I bought this car, it had receipts in the glovebox for being oil sprayed 9 times. The body on the rest of the car is mint, so I never looked hard for rust in the front end - mistake.
I was doing a little brake maintenance around the beginning of September, and, to my chagrin, found holes about the size of a kiwi on both left and right frames above the control arms. This obviously opened up a fair bit once I hit it with the wire wheel on the grinder.


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Used some .125" plate (because that's what I had), made nice-fitting patches with alot of hammering and tweaking and welded them in. Sealed the welds with JB weld to try to keep it dry inside, and added 2 thick coats of rust paint.

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Next up was an underbody brace, but I had picked up a used SRD header from MileHighRacing (thanks again!) and I knew space was tight in the area of the converter ahead of the sway bar below the firewall, so I decided it would be best to do all the exhaust before building the brace around it. Wasn't really excited about doing the whole exhaust all at one time, but it needed to be done. Despite popular advice, I went with 1 3/4" from the converter back based on my own experience. Thrush glass pack muffler under the car, and a couple of 2 1/4" resonators end-to-end with a tip at the back of the car (because I had them).
Made a new flange and a copper gasket to mate to the header:
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New pipes:
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Then built a 4-pt brace from 3/4" pipe because it was free and I'm too cheap to go to the metal shop and buy the proper tubing. Bent as required in the receiver hitch on my truck.

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All-in-all, the whole thing went pretty well, and I know the car needed it. After the 1st drive, it's quite a bit too loud, but I'll drive it for a while and see if the neighbours complain ;) and decide if I need to put more of a real muffler at the back. Too "brappy" for my liking.
I haven't driven it enough (hard enough?) yet to comment on the handling, but at least I know now that it'll live. Seems to rev nicely now, but I'll wait until I'm in the industrial areas to exercise it (or at least out of my neighbourhood).
Looking forward to getting some decent mileage again after driving my Hemi Ram for the last 3 weeks.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:51 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Markham ON
*Sigh* Would the kindest of moderators please help with my pics? Not sure what I've done wrong and really don't want all the work I went to to post this to be wasted. :huh: :buzz: :vibe:

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:00 pm 
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I fixed your links. Not really sure what's going on, because I can't even see the pics in your album, but can link to them :WTF:

Nice job.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:07 pm 
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Location: CAMI Automotive / ONTARIO / CANADA
Nice work .

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 7:24 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
mr. whump,

the frame horns on these cars are made from pressed clamshells that are spot welded together. there are all kinds of open areas on them that allow water to splash up inside the horns.

i have used eastwood company rust remediating products to do an internal spray coating of the frame horns and any other cavities and channels. that has solved my frame horn rust issues nicely.

i use their rust encapsulator first with the 24" nylon tube supplied with their internal frame spray. you'll see the spray blowing out all the cracks and openings of the frame horn. after the rust encapsulator cures i follow with a heavy douche of their internal frame spray. i snap the spray button on the nylon application hose onto a can of brake cleaner and flush the paint out after every use of the tube to keep the hemispherical spray pattern nozzle from getting plugged by dried paint.

you can feed the applicator tubing forward into the front frame rails, around the backs of the frame horns, the fronts of the frame horns, into all the channels on the bottom of the floor pan, into the rocker tubes, and into the void between the toe panel and the lower firewall.

converting the rust in the hidden voids to halt it's deleterious action and then completely coating it with the zinc rich phenolic internal frame spray is about the best thing since corn flakes for these old cars. :wink:

if you don't get on it quickly, you'll soon be popping holes in more places than just the frame horns. :twisted:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:30 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:51 pm
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Location: Markham ON
Thanks for the advice. I'll have to look up those products, and have another look under the car for access points to the hollow structures you mentioned.

My initial plan was to pour a bunch of oil into the frame horns (thanks for providing that term, didn't really know what to call them) and then have the car sprayed again. The local shop does a pretty thorough job inside the fenders / doors / quarters / rockers etc.

I put about 1/2 a pint of motor oil into existing holes in the structure above the frame horns, but I don't think it made it all the way down as it began running out of the front of the car, behind the bumper. I may have to drill specific points to get the oil fully into the frame horns.

And an exhaust update - decided that the car is too loud to live with, so I ordered a 17" stainless Supertrapp to replace the resonators/tip assembly at the rear. I've used one before on a V8 with decent luck, and it'll allow me to experiment a bit with back pressure.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 4:42 pm 
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Throckmorton Whump wrote:
I ordered a 17" stainless Supertrapp to replace the resonators/tip assembly at the rear. I've used one before on a V8 with decent luck, and it'll allow me to experiment a bit with back pressure.



Those things are junk.
The only ways to reduce sound without affecting performance significantly is either by absorption (like a magnaflow) or deflection and volume (like a flowmaster). A supertrapp has neither. If you had any kind of engineering background, you'd know that.
You should rip that tiny exhaust off and start over with 2"

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 2:58 pm 
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Location: Markham ON
Based on Suprf1y's advice, I decided to go ahead with a 1 3/4" Supertrapp. 17" length was a good fit, so a pretty straightforward install. I combined my previous hanger with the bracket that came with the muffler.
It has reduced and mellowed the noise to a far more reasonable level, and brought back a lot of the bottom end that was pretty soft with the straight-through resonators. Wet roads for the test-driving today has resulted in noticeable traction issues in 1st gear. Overall, quite pleased.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:05 pm 
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Location: Markham ON
This is where I would post some witty and/or profane meme about pictures not working. If I could post pictures. :huh: :evil: :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:59 pm 
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Fixed.

It's good thing you don't use a computer in your job, or you would have starved by now'
Some people should just own a Mac :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 7:22 pm 
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Location: Wahiawa, HI
Nice work.

Supertrapps are awesome.

They aren't going to give you any top end for sure, but it's nice to be able to tune for low end or just exactly how much noise you are comfortable with. The biggest thing I like about mine is that it's easy to take off!

:D

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