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 Post subject: Freeman's 2000 LSi
PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 12:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 12:14 pm
Posts: 3
Location: Leesburg, Fl
This is taken from another forum that I am a part of. But it will be my initial posting of it here. I bought this car on Christmas eve 2013.

So this is my Chevy Metro LSi. It's a 4 door sedan with one of the worst transmissions I've heard of. A 3-speed automatic in a 2000? Thought we were past that, guess not. Anyways, here are some day 0 pictures. This was me checking the car out.

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He was asking $1,800 on craigslist. It has been up for 3 weeks and he was ready for it to sell. I ended up taking it off his hands for $1,400. I thought it was a good deal. It was a one car owner, still has the original warrenty stickers and stuff on it. 120,000 miles but the motor runs well.

Anyways, here are some photos of it back home. It made the hour drive quite fine. A few things I need to address. The oil pan issue and it seems to be missing a lug stud. Which is strange. I'll have to pull the wheel off. If it is missing I will get a new one and hammer it in. I also need to look into changing the ATF. I will look around the trans a bit.

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So far I have changed the oil.
Flushed the radiator and refilled the fluid.
Vacuum and wash the car.
New floor mats.

I plan on changing the trans fluid
Seat covers
New wheel cover
Paint the trim
Do something to protect the black pieces (door handles and such)
Clean the head lights

And that's about it. This will be a very good daily driver in my eyes. I may look into doing something about the arm rest. I will measure it and get something from the junkyard to put in there. It seems like there are a couple arm rests that swap in better, but I will probably go with a cloth acura/honda arm rest like I have seen. I'll just cut it to fit between the seats and drill/tap and bolt it to the existing center console.

That's where I stand as of today. My wife definitely appreciated this as a 'Christmas' present to the both of us. My younger sister sent me a 'Baby Princess on Board' window sticker thing in the mail for Christmas. Needless to say, I definitely hung it up in the car.

Cost:
$1400 Car
$0014 Floor Mats
$0000 Car wash
$0025 Oil Change
$1439 Total


I replaced the missing wheel stud, just thought I'd throw that out there. Also went back and added the cost of my 'mods' I've done. Just to keep up with what the car has cost me.

Cost:
$1639 Current
$0005 Wheel Stud and install kit
$1644 Total


There is a chance you will have to replace a wheel stud like I did. It isn't a hard process, just requires a little guiding if you haven't done it before. Here is a quick step by step guide with photos.

You will have to jack up a car for this. There is a central jack point on both ends of the car. For the front this is the front crossmember. In the rear there should be something very similar. The 'jack points' on the side are actually for jack stands. Never trust your life to a jack, use jackstands.

Tools Needed:
-Jack and jack stands
-19mm Socket or prefered way of removing lug nuts
-screw driver
-14mm socket/wrench
-hammer
-punch
-stud seating kit

"Stud Seating Kit"
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Basically just a stainless steel nut to use instead of the lug nut and some washers. I picked up 8 at this thickness. Should be able to buy this whole thing for under $3.00 at your local hardware store.

1. Locate the broken or missing wheel stud.
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2. Remove the wheel by loosening the remaining lug nuts. They are 19mm.
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3. Check out the damage. In my case the whole stud was missing, not broken off. If broken off: After removing the caliper and rotor, use a punch and a hammer to remove the broken stud.
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4. Unscrew the rotor from the rest of the hub. Use a thicker phillips head if possible, you don't want to strip this screw.
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5. Remove the 2 14mm bolts that hold the brake caliper to the main hub. You should be able to remove the rotor and brake caliper easily after this. Set it aside, but supported.
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6. You may have to shift the car into nuetral and rotate the hub until you can slide the stud in from behind. Caution: If you are putting the car in nuetral, (automatic or manual) pull the emergency brake and put stops behind the wheels. After you slide the stud through, use your washer and bolt to pull the stud through. You should apply new motor oil to the threads prior to tightening.
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7. The stud should be fully seated. You may only need a couple washers at first, but more after it is partially seated. Remember to try and use all the threads on the bolt when pulling the stud through. It will help from ruining threads.
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8. Reattach the rotor and brake caliper, put the wheel back on, and now you are done.
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Congrats! You've successfully replaced a wheel stud on your car.

Credits: Thanks to anyone who pointed me in the right way originally. The photos and text were all done by me. The car is a 2000 Chevy Metro LSi, other makes and models may vary. This may be shared, linked, and posted on other web pages if original credits are given.

Alright, starting with things I have bought and doing the tally.
(Removed photos because they were over sized. Will upload when they arrive)

Radio: $57

Tweeters: $7

6.5" Speakers: $38 (4 of them)

Antenna adapter: $4

Steering wheel wrap: $6

Costs:
$1644 Current
$0113 Items listed
$1757 Total


Still not half bad. I took the radio out to measure the opening, current radio dimensions, and look at the antenna before I purchased a new unit.

Stock Radio
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Pull out the ash tray to remove 2 screws
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Then remove 2 screws on top
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Pull the bezel out and pop off the cigarette lighter
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Remove the 4 screws that hold in the radio
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Remove the hidden screw underneath the radio, behind the ash tray.
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Reach behind the radio and pull out the clip and the antenna
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Now you are ready to measure and order a new radio!
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Our car is missing the panels for the mirrors
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So I measured them...
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I think I will fiberglass a piece to go there, paint it black, and sink the tweeters into it. Then run the wires through the stock grommets.
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I have a keyless entry system, I could only find one door actuator. I know where the other one is, but I forgot where the box with the actual unit is at. None the less, I plan on installing this on the front doors for now. Rears in the future.
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And here are some of my subwoofers I removed from my other car. I'm putting the smaller set in the Metro, selling the other, keeping the 2800w amp on the side, and throwing the 500 microfared capacitor in the trash. I have no use for it whatsoever.
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That is where I am at. Tomorrow we are taking a couple things back to Walmart and I am going to pick up some seat covers and beer. :cheers Happy New Years!

Worked on both my cars a little. Mostly cosmetic/ease of life mods. Nothing special. I wanted to change the ATF in the Metro, but the mother in law was here so I was a little busy with other things. Anyways, I squeeze in a couple things.

Costs:
$1757 Current
$0008 Wiper blades
$0010 Arm Rest
$0005 Paint
$0040 Seat Covers
$1820 Total


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Cleaning them up

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First coat of silver/gray

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Painted the circle and Chevy symbol red

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Can't tell, but this is clear coat

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Overall, they turned out alright. The hub caps were pretty beat up. I'm just glad they are all the same color.

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On the car
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Next project, a center console.

I found a 2000 or so Dodge Neon center console. It doesn't match my interior, so I went with something else!

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Remove the rear screws

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Remove the screws on the front portion also

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This is so you can reach the lower screws

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Then you can just tilt the console up and remove it

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Peak at my new arm rest... Have to trim it
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Test fitting it
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The screws line up now
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I trimmed the front too much, but it's not the worst I've ever seen.

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Shot of how it looks in it's final position

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Looks stock to me personally. And it's pretty perfect for the car overall. It's not the largest arm rest, but it gets the job done. It is out of an EG 4-door Civic (92~95 I think). It's almost an exact fit. It's pretty amazing.

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And I put some seat covers on.

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I have to put the back seat cover on still. That and clean the head lights with head light restore.

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