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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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 Post subject: Sprint Turbo Problems
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 8:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 10, 2004 7:58 pm
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Location: Nevada
I know this isn't really a sprint board, but figured it was close enough. anyway, we picked up a 1987 turbo sprint today for 125.00 at an auction.
We could not get it to start in the yard, however we deturmined it has spark. Havent had a chance to mess with it yet, but was just looking to get some ideas on where to start looking for the problem. The boost tubes need hose clamps and the IC needs to be cleaned, but that would not prevent it from starting.

Do these cars have electric or mechanical fuel pumps? also, if electric, should it prime the rail with the key on before starting?

Oh, with the ignition on, the radiator fan is constantly on. Whats the deal with that?

Thanks for any help.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 8:53 pm 
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dr.evil wrote:
We could not get it to start in the yard, however we deturmined it has spark. Havent had a chance to mess with it yet, but was just looking to get some ideas on where to start looking for the problem. The boost tubes need hose clamps and the IC needs to be cleaned, but that would not prevent it from starting.


Many many different places to start looking. Would it at least crank?

Quote:
Do these cars have electric or mechanical fuel pumps? also, if electric, should it prime the rail with the key on before starting?


Electric, and it'll prime when you switch the key on.

Quote:
Oh, with the ignition on, the radiator fan is constantly on. Whats the deal with that?


Apparently someone was having problems with heat issues, or perhaps they just like having the fan come on all the time.


Chris

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 1:42 am 
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Location: Nevada
Yes, it cranks. I'll check compression tomorrow if some starting fluid and fresh gas doesn't do trick tomorrow.

It is going to be a track car, so I may just wire the fan to a switch. There was a jug of antifreeze in the trunk so maybe it does have overheating problems.

I did not hear the fuel prime, but maybe I couldn't hear it over the fan. Does the rail have a pressure release valve on it so I can see if its getting gas? Also, where is the pump located? Above the tank? If its bad, is it hard get a replacement or is it a common pump found on other cars. Im sure parts are had to get for this.

It looks like a really fun car and I cant wait to take it for a spin!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 3:49 am 
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the fuel pump is located in the fuel tank and is accessable through a port on the top of the tank itself (you have to drop the tank to get to the port.) i just recently replaced my fuel pump to a turbo rated unit and while the original pump was quite easily heard at prime, the turbo pump is nearly silent. i have to strain to hear it prime from inside the car.

i wouldn't recommend ether to start your car. first off, it glazes spark plugs. second, it stresses engine internals pretty badly. you don't want to crack one of those valuable forged, coated pistons. ether was the hot shot for a carbed car, but isn't cool for an injected engine.

good luck firing her up!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:39 pm 
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Location: Nevada
Thanks for the tip on the ether. I use it on my mini-bikes and it works like a champ. Didn't realize it wasn't good for F/I.

On my Taurus SHO, the fuel pump can be accessed without removing the tank by cutting a trap door in the body below the rear seat. Is this possiable with this car? If so, does anyone have the dimentions on where to cut?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 12:43 am 
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Location: Nevada
Well I spent some time on it today trying to get it fired up. after replacing the plugs (two different kinds were used by the previous owner) and verified that that it was getting fuel and spark, I broke down and bought a manual for it. I checked the codes and came back all clear.

Well the previous owner had the timing belt cover off for some reason. I had a friend crank the car and saw the main crank pully and bottom timing belt gear were wobbling! I thought the bold may have been loose, but I had a frined hold the engine from turning over and I cranked on it as hard as I could and it didn't budge. Somehow I think it is striped because it turned a little comming off then locked up.

So the verdict is that while it was wobbling, the timing belt must have slipped who knows how many teeth. Its not worth it to get a new crank and repair it. So unfortunatly it will be parted out then sent to the junk yard. Although we do have an unused tunnel-ramed 350 and trans lying around....

'Tis a shame, looked like a really fun car to drive. Oh well I guess.

Check the classified's section if you need parts.


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 Post subject: keep it
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 12:48 am 
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Location: Monterey Bay, California
transplant an engine !!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 12:52 am 
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Another crank wouldn't be hard to come by, and the job isn't that hard to do. I don't think you'll have any other problems, other than just replacing the crank, since the valves ought to be in one piece still.

I wonder how the crank bolt ended up buggered.


Chris

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2004 4:51 pm 
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Location: Nevada
Will a non-turbo Sprint crank work?

First I think I will just try a new pully and bolt, and set the timing back.

Does it have the setting timing procedure in the chiltons manual?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2004 5:13 pm 
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Yup... the cranks are exactly the same, from what I've read and heard, if you need to replace it.

As for timing, setting it should be exactly the same as what the Chilton's manual says for that year.


Chris

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2004 8:14 pm 
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Location: Nevada
Cool.

I got the crank pully off and the woodruf key was severly mangled. Also, the lover timing belt gear fused itself to the crank pully! I don't know what happened, but it was in bad shape.

The crank slot for the key was pretty messed up, but I was able to get a new ket and pound on a new timing belt gear from a N/A 1.0 from an 86'. I also got the pully from that same motor. (these are interchangeable, right (N/A and Turbo)?) Then I slid on the pully and tightened it up. Its now solid as a rock. :D

I got a new timing belt for it and will set that in there later tonight. I bet it will fire right up. 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2004 11:45 pm 
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Told you it wouldn't be so bad. :)

Did you use Loctite on the crank pulley bolt?


Chris

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 4:04 am 
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Actually it was. I will be suprised if it holds together. The key slot on the crank is pretty messed up. It took a bit of coaxing to get the gear back on, if you know what I mean. :)

Ill put a few drips of loctite on it when I torque it tomorrow. If it run's, im taking it to the track to see what it can do/see if it holds together. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 11:27 am 
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dr.evil wrote:
If it run's, im taking it to the track to see what it can do/see if it holds together. :)


Once again, like I've said before, good thing the G10 engines aren't an interference type engine like the G13 engines are, or you wouldn't be able to do that with a clear conscience.


Chris

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 1:37 am 
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Location: Nevada
Well I have good news and bad news.

It fired up right away today after setting the
timing! :D Took it for a spin around the block to check
and make sure everything was okay.

I loaded it up and took it to the track for some
sunday drag racing. Well on the third pass, I shifted
to second around 5500 and something blew. Im not sure
what it was, but it barley moves under its own power.

It seemed really low on power. I mean the first two
runs it traped at no more than 55 MPH. from what I
have read, these cars are good for 16 second 1/4
miles at around 80 in stock form.

So I think the motor was on its last legs before the
crank pully problem. It finally gave up at the track.
The turbo sounded good, but I don't think it was
boosting very much. I mean I could not feel it at
all. I have ridden in turboed cars and could feel it
spool up. I didn't get that with this car. maybe
that is normal with this motor?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 2:39 am 
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Location: Nevada
Well I didn't burn a hole in a piston like I thought.
It was running bad because one one the wires fell off
the dist. and I didn't see it until tonight.

Just a thought on why it is so slow; if the timing belt was off a
tooth, would that kill the performance? The back
marker for the cam pully that is used to set the
timing is loose. There is two possiable teeth that it
can be. maybe I picked the wrong one when I set it?

I will see if I can find a cheap boost guage and see
what it is boosting. So stock should around 7 PSI right?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 4:42 am 
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Location: columbus, ohio
if you were unlucky and had the cam timing retarded, the engine would run like a dog. i never thought it was a bad thing to be off one tooth in the advanced direction, it'd be like +5 or +6 degrees on the cam. suprfly is the cam guru, he'd be able to tell you for sure.

hell yes! the engine will be down on power when you drop an ignition wire you lose 1/3 of the engine. makes 'em idle funny, too. :lol:

i don't know what the pressure relief valve on the mk1's intercooler is set to open at. it's probably over the stock boost of around 7 1/2 pounds. the old aluminum in the intercooler is probably getting pretty rotten so watch that you don't blow it to kingdom come by cranking up the boost. :twisted:

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:21 am 
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Location: Nevada
Long story short...found a new turbo, took old one off (trashed beyond belief), fired it up, runs like a raped ape!

But the pully is loose again and this time im doing it right and replacing the whole crank and pully.

It also needs motor mounts bad...every one is shot. The prev. owners were using a hose clamp to hold the trans to the frame. :thwack:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 9:09 pm 
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Location: Calgary Canada
sounds like a great little project regardless.

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