TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
It is currently Mon Oct 23, 2017 1:56 am

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: New DD mk1 turbo for me
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 4:42 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:37 pm
Posts: 784
Location: Palmdale, Ca
I was in the need of a new daily driver. I was looking at C4 vettes and lt1 camaros but I couldn't pass up on getting another Turbo Sprint.

image_id: 23872

image_id: 23869

image_id: 23870

image_id: 23871

Had to make a 15 hour round trip drive to get it so I'm pretty tired today. I'll update this thread as I fix it up. But it's time for me to catch up on my sleep.

_________________
1987 Chevrolet Sprint Turbo under construction


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2014 12:56 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 6:24 pm
Posts: 43
Location: renton, wa
Looks good!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 9:01 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
:shock:

Nice score you lucky bastard.

Clean bodies are hard to find.

Now you got something to drive and give you more incentive
to finish your other project (don't get sidetracked)

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 3:59 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:37 pm
Posts: 784
Location: Palmdale, Ca
Thanks! Yeah my plan for this one is to keep it mostly stock. Stereo, alarm, some sound deadening, and maybe an economy cam. It runs really good. Turbo spools great and all the electronics seem to be working as they should. It does need quite a few items replaced but nothing too crazy. It leaks engine oil and gear oil so I'll reseal everything. I've already replaced the cap and rotor, plugs and wires, and an oil change. The car didn't want to rev higher than ~4500 or so. The coil looked like it was changed in the early 90s so I popped an MSD Blaster 2 coil on it and it pulls all the way to redline now.

image_id: 23877

image_id: 23878

Stock these cars sit too high and since I'm going air ride on my other Sprint I have these King springs I'm not using. The car looks and feels much better lower. Ride quality didn't change hardly at all. Previous owner had just put new KYB struts and shocks on it last year.

image_id: 23873

image_id: 23874

image_id: 23875

Also painted the white mirrors and door handles satin black.Gave the car a good buffing too. Can't really tell in the pic but buffed on the right.

image_id: 23876

Next up it needs axles badly. Going to try to do those today before work.

_________________
1987 Chevrolet Sprint Turbo under construction


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 12:30 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:37 pm
Posts: 784
Location: Palmdale, Ca
Haven't had a chance to update the thread in a while. I did get around to swapping the axles. Made a big difference, the drivers side inner cv joint was totally junk. So on to the smog. The previous owner had tried to smog it but it failed.

Image

It didn't fail by much and he said he just drove it straight there and hadn't really given the cat a chance to heat up so I tried just driving it around and getting the cat super hot before testing it again. I also gave it an oil change, spark plugs and wires, ran intake cleaner and fuel system treatment through it, and welded up a hole in the exhaust. Got the HCs down but the NOx went up.

Image

So put a new cat on it and BINGO!

Image

I had an idea for how I want the wheels to look so I decided to give it a try. I started by trying paint stripper to get the old paint off. Then I sanded the face of the wheels to get some of the wear off them.

Image

I did one wheel first and didn't do a great job masking it but I masked the other three better.

Image

Then self-etching primer.

Image

Then the color.

Image

Before

Image

And after, I also got some 3.5" vinyl bowties for the center caps

Image

Eventually I'll have them polished, powder coated, and cleared but I think they came out pretty good.

Next it needs front wheel bearings pretty badly. Not a big deal because I plan on swapping to either vert or late model Metro front brakes, which ever I find first. I also plan on putting GT rear discs. But that will be later on.

On my way to work it started overheating until I got off the freeway. Five minutes on the freeway the temp would rise and then I would coast at low rpm or pull over and idle for about a minute to a minute and a half and it would cool back down. I had a 3 row metro radiator left over from my other Sprint that never sold and I had figured it had to be the radiator. I cut the bottom tank off the radiator and put a garden hose in the cap hole and only maybe a third of the cores had water coming out of them. They were plugged pretty badly. I ran radiator flush through the cooling system to get the crud out of the block and then filled it with dexcool, distilled water, and waterwetter. So no more overheating. Odd thing now is that it runs cold. At idle it'll get to the second or third dash on the gauge but going down the road it goes into just into the solid cold range. I got a new thermostat and checked the new one and it starts to open at 180 and is fully open around 195. The gauge maybe be showing wrong but the cooling fans come on just past the center of the gauge and that seems right to me. I might have to put a 195 thermostat in it. Anyone ever have a similar experience?

_________________
1987 Chevrolet Sprint Turbo under construction


Last edited by 1987TurboSprint on Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 5:31 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
Nice score man. It's getting harder and harder to find these cars. And if you do you're lucky if it isn't beat up. Nice paint job on the rims to. Makes them pop.

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:26 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:37 pm
Posts: 784
Location: Palmdale, Ca
Just filled it up for a total of $27 and its getting 40mpg with 75% highway driving. Oh I almost forgot I installed the cruise control setup I bought a while back. It was originally going in my other Sprint but with a 110 mile daily comute this one needed it now. Only issues with the cruise control is the accelerate doesnt work, it tries and then the cruise control shuts off, and the clutch switch isnt working. But it sets and holds speed just fine. I just have to remember to step on the brake right before I step on the clutch to slow down or it'll rev to the moon. In town I rip around with it a little and I know I can probably squeeze some more miles out of it. Still I'm really happy with the car. For $1,350 it was a great buy.

_________________
1987 Chevrolet Sprint Turbo under construction


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 4:58 pm 
Offline
@ssclown

Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
1987TurboSprint wrote:
I cut the bottom tank off the radiator and put a garden hose in the cap hole and only maybe a third of the cores had water coming out of them.


What a totally awesome piece of information. It's excellent you tested the old radiator that way and even more excellent that you posted the results . I'm so glad I read that.
I have a whole pile of Mk1 Sprints, Forsas and Fireflies, both carbed and turboed, all of them out of action because of overheating and coolant loss that warped their cylinder heads. In on and offline discussions the poor performance of an older radiator was mentioned as a possible cause but now that I've read how you cut open an old radiator and found two thirds of the tubes plugged I'm certain that's the cause of the overheating in most, if not all, of my cars. The previous owners of two of the carbed Mk1s I bought both told me, "
the head has just been done", but within months both of them had overheated and warped their heads, so I bet their radiators were plugged and that's why the heads had been done in the first place. Every single one of my overheated and head warped Mk1s has over 200,000 kilometers on the odometer and still has the original radiator in them that Suzuki installed when they were built.
Super timely addition to my knowledge as well because I've just got back in touch with a guy I know who has 30 years experience as a Suzuki mechanic so as soon as I weld up a Mk1 towbar and scrape up some cash I'll be dragging them over to his place to have the good used engines I've got swapped in. After reading your old radiator test I'm going to be dragging them over there with a brand new radiator installed in them. If I hadn't read your rad test I might have left a poorly functioning original rad in and wrecked the freshly installed good used engine the same way the original was wrecked. Thanks a heap for the great information.

And congrats on your excellent acquisition of a great looking Mk1 turbo sprint. It's a good thing for me and all the other Teamswift Mk1 aficionados that you didn't instead get the LT1 or that other thing you were considering.

Addendum: Your info also demonstrates what a gamble it is to replace a leaky radiator with a used radiator from a wrecker because maybe the used rad from the wrecker, although it doesn't leak, is severely plugged up to the point where it will cause head warping overheating.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:01 am 
Offline
@ssclown

Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
coasterII wrote:
1987TurboSprint wrote:
I cut the bottom tank off the radiator and put a garden hose in the cap hole and only maybe a third of the cores had water coming out of them.


What a totally awesome piece of information. It's excellent you tested the old radiator that way and even more excellent that you posted the results . I'm so glad I read that.
I have a whole pile of Mk1 Sprints, Forsas and Fireflies, both carbed and turboed, all of them out of action because of overheating and coolant loss that warped their cylinder heads. In on and offline discussions the poor performance of an older radiator was mentioned as a possible cause but now that I've read how you cut open an old radiator and found two thirds of the tubes plugged I'm certain that's the cause of the overheating in most, if not all, of my cars. The previous owners of two of the carbed Mk1s I bought both told me, "
the head has just been done", but within months both of them had overheated and warped their heads, so I bet their radiators were plugged and that's why the heads had been done in the first place. Every single one of my overheated and head warped Mk1s has over 200,000 kilometers on the odometer and still has the original radiator in them that Suzuki installed when they were built.
Super timely addition to my knowledge as well because I've just got back in touch with a guy I know who has 30 years experience as a Suzuki mechanic so as soon as I weld up a Mk1 towbar and scrape up some cash I'll be dragging them over to his place to have the good used engines I've got swapped in. After reading your old radiator test I'm going to be dragging them over there with a brand new radiator installed in them. If I hadn't read your rad test I might have left a poorly functioning original rad in and wrecked the freshly installed good used engine the same way the original was wrecked. Thanks a heap for the great information.

And congrats on your excellent acquisition of a great looking Mk1 turbo sprint. It's a good thing for me and all the other Teamswift Mk1 aficionados that you didn't instead get the LT1 or that other thing you were considering.

Addendum: Your info also demonstrates what a gamble it is to replace a leaky radiator with a used radiator from a wrecker because maybe the used rad from the wrecker, although it doesn't leak, is severely plugged up to the point where it will cause head warping overheating.


I was so pumped about your tank removal radiator testing method, and its eye opening results, that I went out to look at one of my spare Mk1 rads and I saw that it has plastic top and bottom tanks held on by a whole lot of little chrome metal tabs. I searched on Google Videos for, " plastic radiator tank removal" and discovered its sheer child's play to bend back the tabs and remove the tanks. Rather than buy a new rad I'm going to bend back the tabs and remove the tanks, then rod out the core tubes and put the tanks back on and bend the tabs back. Then, of course, be super serious about leak checking on initial startup and for the first bit of driving. When the God of Cash smiles again I'll put in an aluminum rad like Jamal Spelling showed in one of his videos in whatever I'm daily driving but until then this do it yourself radiator core rod out will help me keep costs down in getting all my Sprints, Forsas and Fireflies running again. (none of my Swifts, Geos or Metros has an overheating problem and warped head, they are all disabled/semi-driveable for other reasons)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:45 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:51 pm
Posts: 153
Location: boise id
If you all have any radiator repair/rod out/disassemble/reassembly questions feel free to pm me. I am a 12 year radiator repair tech and a 4th generation in my family radiator repair tech. There are a few things about removing and reinstall the tanks on a radiator to keep in mind or it will end up destroying it beyond repair. Glad you found your overheating issue op.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 12:48 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
I know what I have done in the past with my rads is pull them out, seal the ends with tape and put in some C.L.R. and work it around. Only ever had one leak after but that just means it already had a hole. It works great for me. Just flush it out really good after.

_________________
92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Yahoo [Bot] and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group