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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 1:08 am 
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No error codes in the 1990 T3 ecu, just flashes 12.

The wideband O2 showed idle getting progressively leaner each day for 3 days from around 15:1 to 16 to 17 and when it died it was pushing 18. I've been tuning the AFM tension spring via the WB O2 and it was really dialed in nice on Thursday coming up the hill.

If you blip the throttle, it comes back to life (spark and fuel). If you rev it, it revs up
ok, sounds almost normal. But if you hold it steady at say 1/4 throttle, it holds for a moment and then starts dropping rpm all the way to stall out. Like the computer has decided to cut fuel.
If you drop the throttle to idle, it goes chug chug chug and dies. Then it fires right back
up again on the cold start injector, runs at 1500 perfectly for 2 seconds, and then drops
rpm and dies, regardless of throttle position.
All the vacuum hoses are new, all the gaskets are new, the fuel filter is new.
The hi press fuel pump relay is new and the 2ndary pump is running, controlled by the ecu.
The entire cyl head, intake manifold, throttle body, afm have only been assembled for 1
month, and it's been running perfectly as a baseline. Base timing 16 deg adv. (it likes it)
There is no turbo or intercooler installed, this is normally aspirated with a long tube
header and no cat to the residual stock exhaust pipe. It's been pulling strong to 6500 with
the stock cam.
The new parts store Bosch 1 wire O2 is one month old, but I suspect it could be failing and
causing the computer to misbehave. Can anyone comment on T3 symptoms caused by failing O2's?
I swapped another stock throttle body on to eliminate the cold start air valve, and the
shaft was slopping a little on the existing TB, but no improvement.

It's behaving like a massive vacuum leak but I can't find anywhere for the leak to be.
(unless the brake booster blew to hell, since I can't drive, I don't know)

The rebuilt AFM ohms out ok, it's getting 5 volts, and the output voltage is nice and linear
through range of travel. Oddly, the ohms through range of travel are not linear, don't
understand that. The AFM idle air bypass is closed. The TB air bypass is open 5 turns, originally holding 1000 rpm idle.
The air temp sensor ohms out ok cold.
The fuel injectors ohm out ok from the ecu connector.

Maybe the in-tank pump is dying intermittantly, it's history is unknown. It's a stock Geo
Metro TBI in-tank pump, controlled by the chassis harness. I turn the key on, and the tank
pump runs audibly. There is gas in the tank.

I swapped in another T3 ecu and got the same symtom. I'm fucking baffled. When it starts dying, you milk the throttle aggressively and it comes back to life and roars up the rpm band, but hold the throttle still and it drops rpm and dies. Can a dying ignitor behave that way? Which abnormal behavior is normal for a T3 component failure?

There are no codes!!! WTF, Over??

_________________
95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:24 am 
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you can isolate the brake booster by clamping the hose with a vise-grip.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 3:35 pm 
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Have now plugged all intake manifold ports with rubber caps. Has eliminated brake booster, purge valve, and a/c up idle valve. No improvement.

Have verified fuel pump relay circuit to in tank pump, wiring is correct. 2ndary pump wiring is correct, ecu is controlling both and I can hear both pumps working during failure scenario. Ecu cuts off fuel pump relay 2 seconds after engine stalls.

Timing light on coil wire shows spark during failure, so ecu is not shutting off spark. yanking the throttle repeatedly while it's trying to die revs essentially normally with both fuel and spark delivery. Sounds like the normal snarling 3 cylinder I last flogged up the hill on Thurs.

Through repeated testing, I've now seen an intermittant code 33 (AFM open circuit) twice now. It clears itself for no reason and goes back to 12. But I've got 33 to stick for several key on, start, off cycles. Ohm test from ecu connector shows good values according to FSM. I've only got one spare that is good electrically but bad mechanically. My next step is soldering iron surgery to replace the circuit board in the AFM. What a fucking hassle.

Anybody got any ideas?

Anyone ever experienced code 33 before? What was your corrective action??

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95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 6:04 pm 
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In your search for vacum leaks, dont forget to check the throttle body! I had a MK1 that kept goin lean and rich, stalled, all sorts of weirdness... turned out to be the throttle shaft had lots of play resulting in a vacum/boost leak. How much does it move?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:05 pm 
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it could be a leak in your piping between AFM and TB. it's not an vacuum leak, but it could cause you this kind of troubles. if you were turbo you'd hear a boost leak.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 11:02 pm 
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While swapping out the circuit board and the moving conductor arm in the AFM, I could see the old setup tracking off the low end of the carbon trace (presumably on snap idle) which one could assume would reasonably cause an open condition. So I centered the replacement sweep arm on the replacement circuit board to stay in the black from full closed to full open. Had high hopes for that correction.

Also swapped the stock 1 wire O2 for a heated 4 wire O2, with a keyswitched heat circuit and sensor ground to chassis ground, and stuffed that into the header collector. I'm speculating that the exhaust velocity at idle is insufficient to keep the O2 sensor "lit off", maybe the heater can compensate.

Does anyone imagine using a white/blue switched power feed for the O2 heater +12v lead could be a problem? Are there any other circuits on white/blue that could freak out with line noise or other symptoms related to current draw?

There's hardly 6" of rubber between the AFM and the TB, so while I understand how a leak could cause a problem, I can't see it being the problem here.

I reset the 0-12 volt crossover point on the TPS per CJDave to eliminate that possibility as well.

So another day wasted, and the wideband is still showing way lean on idle (like 18 or 19:1), but at least I can keep it lit now, just not well. If you stab the throttle, it revs like gangbusters. So even though I haven't measured fuel press, I can't imagine it's the problem. i did notice the screw backing out of the pulse dampner, but tightened it up early on, no apparent changes with that. If there were crap in the tank intermittantly plugging the sock on the FP intake, it would be more apparent on high volume flow than low volume flow, so it doesn't make sense for that to manifest at idle and not at WOT.

I have already swapped the TB out yesterday just to eliminate shaft play vacuum leaks from the equation. The old TB had notable shaft play off idle, the replacement has signficantly less, (not perfect though).

Still baffled.

_________________
95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:16 am 
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What about the PCV system? how did you connect it? the air in the engine is "metered" by the AFM, if you vent the engine to atmosphere instead of the intake piping you'll get a vacuum leak from the PCV valve.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:50 am 
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PCV valve is permanently capped off, and valve cover vents to atmosphere. I don't use PCV on any engine in any vehicle. There is nothing worse than oil vapor in the combustion chamber. On the 3 cyl, I stuffed a PCV valve in the manifold hole, bolted on the retainer, and capped the valve with a rubber plug. I will take it apart and inspect. I'm running out of things to look at.

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95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:59 am 
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can you take pics of the engine bay in various angles? It has to be something like unmetered air going in...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:10 am 
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All pics are here: total of 6 pages.
http://geometroforum.com/topic/1269063/1/

I need a fuel line "T" to get a fuel press gauge hooked up. May try limpin it down the hill.

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95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 3:01 pm 
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Just plumbed in a fuel press gauge. capped off the T3 FPR so now I can confirm 38 psi solid, steady, not changing through various running conditions from
good at part throttle through going huge lean (off the wideband scale which ends at 22:1) when it stalls. During the lean condition, the vacuum gauge drops from almost 15 down to around 5, it chugs, then dies.

Took it for a quick drive around the neighborhood and saw 38psi fuel press the whole time, all throttle positions. Wideband showing lean at most throttle positions now. Power at 1/2 throttle very close to normal.

Quick compression test of the warm, not hot, (AFM removed, WOT propped open)
engine shows 155-160 on all 3 holes. That's low compared to the 185 I had with the TBI top end on the same short block, same stock cam and lifters. But the 3 holes being so close seems to eliminate blown head gasket.

Lifter failure? Low oil press or crud in the oil passages at idle causing lifters to not pump up, valves not open all the way? I was hoping compression test would eliminate that possibility as well.

_________________
95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:44 pm 
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87octane wrote:
I don't use PCV on any engine in any vehicle. There is nothing worse than oil vapor in the combustion chamber.


There is no down side to PCV on a normal street driven engine and the reburning of unspent fuel in the crankcase easily explains away any old wive's tales about oil clogging up the spark plugs. Anyone who's taken a course in auto mechanics can easily explain why the PCV is a good thing.

We used to block off the PCV in the early 1960's, but the crankcase would build up pressure, and we'd end up blowing the main seals. Although we were hardheaded, eventually we realized the virtues of a PCV. Didn't think anyone was still alive who thought the PCV was bad...especially in California!

The fellows way up North use catch cans if their oil is finding it's way too far up the engine, but don't defeat the PCV. You are what you breathe...hope this doesn't spill over to catalytic converters.
(And I thought Northern Californians maintained an air of 'intellectual superiority' to their less fortunate brothers to the South :roll: )

Chemistry has taught us well; a catalyst isn't used up in a reaction, so that's why the cat lasts and lasts.
The EGR knocks down NOx, and todays automobiles are very peppy while polluting less and less. Don't take my word for it; test drive a new Ford Mustang, or a Corvette.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:09 pm 
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Phil n Ed, I tune and race LSx motors. My daily driver is an LS2. And the guys who are always chasing mystery knock retard no matter how many tables they tweak are the guys who won't pull their LSx throttle body off the intake manifold, and stuff their hand inside the plenum and discover the exxon valdez oil slick going on inside the intake manifold at the PCV valve from ring blowby from those dismal high silicon hypereutectic cast pistons. That innocent (and to some, religious) oil vapor in the combustion chamber causes destructive detonation, causing even more ring damage by rattling the pistons, and giving the knock sensor lots and lots to do. I'll put my 91 octane spark advance tables on 10.9:1 compression up against any tuner's tables for PCV attached and you'll see my several degrees additional advance through substantial portions of the VE table map. PCV is fucking evil and needs to die. If you want to run a puke tank with breather (to atmosphere, same end result), great, thanks for not oiling down the track.

None of the pcv issue beyond "it's not a vacuum leak at all cuz it's capped" even remotely addresses my lean idle/low vacuum condition. So if I may redirect the pontificating of smog nazi propaganda back to making lil evil wail again, the discussion is:
Is the T3 ECU calculating a short duty cycle due to faulty inputs or are the injectors getting the correct pulse width and unable to deliver enough fuel? (Or do I need yet another expensive 5 wire WB Bosch to feed the LC-1 cuz they like to drop dead when you least expect it! I've been out of beer all day, and my attitude is getting worse by the minute) A good fuel filter, two good running pumps and 38 psi at the rail suggest that plenty of fuel is waiting for squirt squirt. The injectors were rebuilt and running on a well documented 110 HP boosted T3. The injectors were running well on this engine and are fine at heavy throttle today.

I'm currently ohm'ing out (again) all the ecu input sensors in hopes of finding something stupid like a non-linear output from the TPS or any goddamn thing that confuses the ecu at idle. I did find the purge line hiding under the TB so it's plugged now too. Ain't no holes sucking wind in the intake manifold, so where the hell is this potential vacuum leak???

The TPS ohms out fine, compares identical to another good TPS on the bench. No luck there.

The rebuilt AFM through range of travel ohms out every bit as weird as the 1st unit did, obviously that's not a valid measurement. However 5 volts in (verified) from ecu (Vcc) lands at the output pin (Vs) at 4.6 fully closed, and then decreases voltage very linear to full open. Exact same results as 1st unit.
Does anybody know first hand if the output pin (Vs) should be showing greater than 4.6v at full closed?

_________________
95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's


Last edited by 87octane on Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:50 pm 
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87octane wrote:
PCV valve is permanently capped off, and valve cover vents to atmosphere. I don't use PCV on any engine in any vehicle. There is nothing worse than oil vapor in the combustion chamber. On the 3 cyl, I stuffed a PCV valve in the manifold hole, bolted on the retainer, and capped the valve with a rubber plug. I will take it apart and inspect. I'm running out of things to look at.


ok time to wade in on this one.
PCV capped.
VC venting to atmosphere.
Your stock ECU is setup to read a stock engine with a PCV recirculating system.
If I ever left the oil cap off my T3, or left the system open to atmosphere the engine would die at idle much like yours.
I could give it fuel and it would run but it would not idle worth a crap.
I put in a catch can routed the return back into the system and T'd in to the PCV.
The inside of my intake is clean, and the catch can catches all the excess oil buildup my old tired engine wants to put back through the Turbo system.
Try capping off the VC or hooking back up the PCV.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:29 pm 
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the hose that was passing over the fuel rail could (should?) be reconnected too. this provides some air directly to the top of the valves.
Who gives a crap about your LS whatever frickin V8 running a few degrees more advance than anyone because you think pcv is evil? you have a suzuki G10 high compression boostless turbo3 engine running a STOCK crappy untunable ECU. why don't you connect everything like it should be? I'm not even sure this ECU can handle 9.5:1 CR...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:03 pm 
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turbohull wrote:
I'm not even sure this ECU can handle 9.5:1 CR...


It can and it has. It's right on the end of it's capabilities, but it works. :D

I'm all for getting a decent catch can (one that has something in it to condense oil vapours) and reconnecting the PCV. That's solved some pretty nasty problems in my experience while not messing with what the computer sees. Come to think of it, someone else a while ago had a similar problem when they had their PCV system disabled. Could be wrong. Can't hurt to hook it back up to try it.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:30 pm 
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Ok, the collective has spoken so I tried valve cover straight to PCV valve. Got worse. Like the vacuum leak got bigger. LC-1 still showing way lean (21-22:1).

It's like it'll almost idle nice around 1000 rpm with LC-1 showing 18ish, vacuum gauge showing 13ish, for many seconds, then all of sudden, as if the computer changed its mind, LC-1 shows AFR leaning out instantly to 21 or worse, and the idle drops, vacuum gauge drops to 5ish, and it goes chug chug chug. I may need yet another expensive 5 wire if it's lying to me. But I don't think it is. I've used it for several years and I'm used to it's quirks.

Before all this agony, the existing setup was running perfect and idling perfect at 1000 rpm, for the entire month. No PCV. All 3 possible external valves attached. Some component went to hell or degraded after 4 full weeks of beating on it, daily driving. It still feels like a bad signal from the 1 wire O2 confusing the ecm. Or a vacuum leak. I've replaced the O2 once already in the past 4 days. I've replaced the TB. Are the T3 TB water lines self burping? Since they both point down, then terminate lower than the TB, I can't figure out how.

Right now it smells pig rich at the low bad idle, the exhaust tip pulses individually for each cylinder, the idle is so slow, all while the LC-1 is showing 22:1 AFR. There's no cat converter on the car, the FPR is at 38 (too high for idle, should be 30) so the smell might be normal. Can't tell. Hook the FPR back up, drops it down to 30 psi at idle, no change.

Knuckles, I think the turbo PCV has piping leading forward over the valve cover to I don't know where. I'm guessing upstream of the turbo intake. That could probably bleed off excess blow by that the PCV valve is too small to suck in, and still be recycled through the turbo compressor and burned anyway. Oil cap off would then be a big leak between the turbo compressor and the AFM. It stands to reason that system is all or nothing.

Turbohull, the N/A TBI's are all 9:1, and that's probably generous. Not sure where the 9.5:1 compression number comes from. The plain head and the T3 head have the same combustion chamber (uncut). So the only variable is head gasket thickness, and the aftermarket stuff is all pretty thick, around .040, give or take. A number of swifters have used the T3 ecu on N/A, sometimes only because their turbo was broke, and run just fine on the street, as have I. The only real problem is too fat at WOT, 10-11:1, so you drive with the lambda and back out of the throttle just a pinch whenever the turbo light comes on and AFR settles down real nice in the 12-13 range. Like I said, it worked real good for a month and then took a dump.

Sell me your MS code???

As for the swirl tubes in the intakes ports, they are long gone. We discussed those at length months ago, and I'm guessing they really only induce swirl under boost, since otherwise it's a captive vacuum system end to end. It would require a flow bench with swirl adapter to ascertain if and how much swirl is actually induced and when. Probably a safe bet that they disrupt normal intake flow though. 3Tech removes them on his ported heads. By capping the holes, they do nothing. Besides, it worked just fine.

Gonna see if I can make it to work tomorrow. Some high rpm runs at high throttle to heat up the O2. But if there's mechanical fucked-uppedness under the valve cover somewhere, it's gonna be a AAA day......

_________________
95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:22 am 
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I see you use a LC-1. ditch the 1 wire O2 and connect analog output 1 to the ECU, but i doubt it's the cause of idle problems.

Is the car at least drivable?


If you want to install a MS i'll gladly give you a map to work with, i'm not selling this stuff :D

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 1:32 pm 
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I nursed it to work slipping the clutch and e-braking in rush hour traffic trying not to stall out. That was motivating and difficult. Had a bag full of tools and sensors, all instrumented up, fuel pressure gauge flopping on the windshield, 1 wire O2 voltage scan on the multimeter in the cockpit, vacuum gauge in the passenger window, what a circus..

After missing two days of work, it was busy, so I couldn't think about it. Came out to drive home and a little voice whispered "swap the thermotime switch" for no apparent reason. (Yes, I have voices in my head on a regular basis and they've been disturbingly right in the past). So I did and got 200 rpm up on idle (from like 300 rpm to maybe 500 rpm). Then I used the AFR gauge to tune the trap door tension spring and everything is back to normal and running well.
Drove like a maniac up the hill, burying the tach to 7, Lil Evil Wails again!!!
fuckola. whoda thunk it?

As long I can see the fuel pressure gauge showing me the manifold vacuum to atmospheric fuel pressure curve, may as well fuck with it. Seems to float around 14.5 on the freeway at light throttle, 5th gear, 3000 rpm, 60 mph, mostly flat road.
This morning capped off the FPR, got the steady 38psi, drove, got 14.5 average again. Hmmm. 1 click of increased tension on the trap door, got a smidge leaner at half throttle but but steady state 3000/60mph still floating around 14.5, no change.
Maybe my ram air is pushing open the door? It is a sealed system. Or maybe the ecu wants it at 14.5 and all that running lean down the highway was just wrongness.

It's real nice to be back where one click on the trap door spring makes a measurable difference each way and requires an idle bypass adjustment to get back to 1000 again. Methinks it's time for a cam......

Mike!!! Cut me a 218/350 and +10 late sprocket! It's time...

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95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 4:54 pm 
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Knuckles wrote:
87octane wrote:
PCV valve is permanently capped off, and valve cover vents to atmosphere. I don't use PCV on any engine in any vehicle. There is nothing worse than oil vapor in the combustion chamber. On the 3 cyl, I stuffed a PCV valve in the manifold hole, bolted on the retainer, and capped the valve with a rubber plug. I will take it apart and inspect. I'm running out of things to look at.


ok time to wade in on this one.
PCV capped.
VC venting to atmosphere.
Your stock ECU is setup to read a stock engine with a PCV recirculating system.
If I ever left the oil cap off my T3, or left the system open to atmosphere the engine would die at idle much like yours.
I could give it fuel and it would run but it would not idle worth a crap.
I put in a catch can routed the return back into the system and T'd in to the PCV.
The inside of my intake is clean, and the catch can catches all the excess oil buildup my old tired engine wants to put back through the Turbo system.
Try capping off the VC or hooking back up the PCV.


thats because after the maf and pre-turbo it is sucking air in to the system, and if you pull off the oil cap or a pcv line, then sure it will run funny or die. BUT, if you just have the throttle body breathing the maf with no other lines, there is no way to get unmetered air in there, and therefore your argument is null and void

im not sure id use a ram-air system to push on the maf though

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:21 pm 
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sort of to fill tecnical bits to the above responses:

the vaf measures the air flow to the engine and the ecu calculates the cycle duration of the injectors. if you allow unmetered air to enter anywhere in the induction piping, prior to the inlet of the turbo, the afr is way off and the car runs like crap (technical term. :-P )

the crankcase must be ventilated unless you want real problems with engine seals spewing oil, especially on the turbo3 which has the crankcase pressurized even more than the naturally aspirated 3 banger. the best way to do that is to use the pcv valve in the system. knuckles has the catch system plumbing down pat.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:14 pm 
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I got sick of draining the milky puke from the can all the time I ditched it and ran a long downward hose out to the wheel well and put a breather on the end, zip tied to a brake hardline. that pressure has no problem escaping through the gaping hole off the valve cover. from any standpoint that ISNT emissions based, re-using that 'output' does nothing but reduce octane, coat your intake manifold in crap and just overall reduce power AND efficiency. I'm happy mine is off

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:29 pm 
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The car is in California, what do you think is going to happen to his car when they see his system venting to atmosphere.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:43 pm 
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So you're saying that the thermo time switch was buggered and causing the mixture to be off. Mind you I find it unlikely that it would cause the mixture to be lean. It'd only make the mixture richer or make no change after 5 mins at the most. I've disconnected the cold-start injector before and it didn't cause any noticeable change, which would be the same effect if the switch was stuck open.

I'm glad the problem's fixed, but I'm kinda lost on how you fixed it by changing that thermo switch.

(Could be the lack of sleep and the extra beers fouling my logic, though.)


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:23 am 
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CJDavE wrote:
I'm glad the problem's fixed, but I'm kinda lost on how you fixed it by changing that thermo switch.

(Could be the lack of sleep and the extra beers fouling my logic, though.)

Maybe my logic was drinking beer with yours, cause I think just the same :lol: lean on startup ok, but when warm? doesn't make sense...

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