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Ok, the collective has spoken so I tried valve cover straight to PCV valve. Got worse. Like the vacuum leak got bigger. LC-1 still showing way lean (21-22:1).
It's like it'll almost idle nice around 1000 rpm with LC-1 showing 18ish, vacuum gauge showing 13ish, for many seconds, then all of sudden, as if the computer changed its mind, LC-1 shows AFR leaning out instantly to 21 or worse, and the idle drops, vacuum gauge drops to 5ish, and it goes chug chug chug. I may need yet another expensive 5 wire if it's lying to me. But I don't think it is. I've used it for several years and I'm used to it's quirks.
Before all this agony, the existing setup was running perfect and idling perfect at 1000 rpm, for the entire month. No PCV. All 3 possible external valves attached. Some component went to hell or degraded after 4 full weeks of beating on it, daily driving. It still feels like a bad signal from the 1 wire O2 confusing the ecm. Or a vacuum leak. I've replaced the O2 once already in the past 4 days. I've replaced the TB. Are the T3 TB water lines self burping? Since they both point down, then terminate lower than the TB, I can't figure out how.
Right now it smells pig rich at the low bad idle, the exhaust tip pulses individually for each cylinder, the idle is so slow, all while the LC-1 is showing 22:1 AFR. There's no cat converter on the car, the FPR is at 38 (too high for idle, should be 30) so the smell might be normal. Can't tell. Hook the FPR back up, drops it down to 30 psi at idle, no change.
Knuckles, I think the turbo PCV has piping leading forward over the valve cover to I don't know where. I'm guessing upstream of the turbo intake. That could probably bleed off excess blow by that the PCV valve is too small to suck in, and still be recycled through the turbo compressor and burned anyway. Oil cap off would then be a big leak between the turbo compressor and the AFM. It stands to reason that system is all or nothing.
Turbohull, the N/A TBI's are all 9:1, and that's probably generous. Not sure where the 9.5:1 compression number comes from. The plain head and the T3 head have the same combustion chamber (uncut). So the only variable is head gasket thickness, and the aftermarket stuff is all pretty thick, around .040, give or take. A number of swifters have used the T3 ecu on N/A, sometimes only because their turbo was broke, and run just fine on the street, as have I. The only real problem is too fat at WOT, 10-11:1, so you drive with the lambda and back out of the throttle just a pinch whenever the turbo light comes on and AFR settles down real nice in the 12-13 range. Like I said, it worked real good for a month and then took a dump.
Sell me your MS code???
As for the swirl tubes in the intakes ports, they are long gone. We discussed those at length months ago, and I'm guessing they really only induce swirl under boost, since otherwise it's a captive vacuum system end to end. It would require a flow bench with swirl adapter to ascertain if and how much swirl is actually induced and when. Probably a safe bet that they disrupt normal intake flow though. 3Tech removes them on his ported heads. By capping the holes, they do nothing. Besides, it worked just fine.
Gonna see if I can make it to work tomorrow. Some high rpm runs at high throttle to heat up the O2. But if there's mechanical fucked-uppedness under the valve cover somewhere, it's gonna be a AAA day......
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95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's
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2X 1989 Swift GTi's a 92 and Jr's new 93 GT
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lean on startup ok, but when warm? doesn't make sense...