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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 10:17 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:12 pm
Posts: 209
Location: North Cape May, NJ
Okay guys I'm a bit stumped... I have an 87 Turbo Sprint, and well my brakes recently just stopped working. Now let me explain a bit more. I have recently replaced both front brake assemblies, (calipers, rotors, pads...) and have broke them in properly as to not glaze the rotors, so check. I have also replaced my drivers side wheel cylinder in suspecion it was leaking, so check. The passenger side wheel cylinder was rebuilt and is not showing any signs of leaks by any means, so check. And so my brakes even before I did all this were gradually getting worse... And now they have completely quit. The pedal goes to the floor, and only if I pump the living jesus out of them with they gain any pedal feel. And yes I have bled the WHOLE system multiple times, the most progress I have made while bleeding is the pedal with get half way down when it stops. So I replaced the master cylinder. And nothing, no changed... What happens is that I bleed them to the "half pedal point" and then because it states that these cars have automatic adjusting rear brakes, I back up hit on them ,back up hit on them, ba... you get it. and which they get better and I can feel the rear brakes drag and click. So good. But I take it around the block and they fade right back out... Now I have checked all my brake lines of visable damage or rusting and leaking... nothing! nothing at all! My proportioning valve is working to my knowledge because everytime i hit the brakes you can feel and hear it. On the other hand... I was slightly confused by something. On my master cylinder if you look at the reservoir you can see that when you pump the brake the pistion closest to the firewall is working sucking and throwing back fluid, but the piston on the farthest end of the master cylinder is not doing anything. And to my knowledge it should be doing the same thing! But what in the world would that mean?

Also for some added details that my help with the community troubleshooting process is that I have a "boost gauge installed between the intake and the booster... which was something I was against but my buddy did it to surprise me that he hooked it back up for me, and justified that his srt4s gauge was hooked up in this fashion. Which grant it, it works but considering that the vacuum line is prone to breaking down over time, and yeah. So if that makes any difference.

So I have to have this car decently fixed and running ( I know theres an e-brake...)before 3 when i have to pick up my girlfriend from work an hour away from where i am... trust me it can be done, just not looking forward to it... lots of downshifting and e brakes pulling... not my idea of an enjoyable ride... or is it :twisted:


Soon to be 1989 Suzuki Swift GTi ;)

PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
There's a couple possibilites.
Even though you replaced the M/C, it could be bad.
Take it off and bench bleed it, or disconnect the lines and
bleed it on the car. Hook it up and rebleed the system.
Use a power bleeder, or have a buddy help you by working
the brake pedal. You may need to check the rod adjustment
as well, but not likely unless you disturbed it swapping out the m/c.
Your rear brakes may be worn out, or the drums may be past tolerance.
You may also have the brake shoes reversed or the hardware installed
incorrectly. The adjuster needs to be set before putting on the rear drums,
get it as close as you can. If adjusted properly, when you spin
the wheel it should turn no more than 2 times. The self adjust mechanism
only keeps them in check (barely) but they need to be adjusted properly
first. The self adjuster will never adjust your brakes to the proper tension
if they are not in proper adjustment to begin with.
Begin by checking the Parking Brake lever. It needs to fully engage
with just a few clicks (like 3-6 clicks). If your pulling it way up,
then the problem is the rear brake adjustment, or parts are worn
past tolerance.
I'm betting on a problem with your rear brakes based on your description,
remember you can't use the self adjuster to adjust them, even if you
try it 100 times.
The vacuum line is only for the booster, if it or the booster is bad,
then only the "assist" will be gone, you'll be using both feet on the pedal
to try to stop. Recommend running your boost gauge off some other vacuum
source and get dedicated vacuum line back on the booster.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:37 pm
Posts: 784
Location: Palmdale, Ca
Did you get a A-1 Cardone master cylinder? I bought a rebuilt A-1 Cardone MS from Rock Auto a few months ago and it was no good. I only replaced it because it was due and I'm going to have it polished. I couldn't get a pedal with the one I got so I put the old one back on it worked just fine.

1987 Chevrolet Sprint Turbo under construction

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