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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 10:31 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
After a long wait my Sprints on the road!!

Here's a couple teaser pics.

With the previous owner, the battery most likely went into the fan and acid went everywhere.
I mean everywhere. A lot of time was spent cleaning and repainting the right side
of the engine bay and sourcing a new battery tray.
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I spent a lot of time cleaning up the wheelwells. After removing the inner liner, I took out about 2lbs
of mud, leaves and crap to find some small rust issues. Decided my best bet was to just patch the small
hole up with JB weld. Love that stuff.
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This car was hammered. It had been really abused and neglected by the previous owner who did a lot of off-
roading. Everything I touched was connected to another worn part. A simple strut replacement turned into
inner tie rods, outer tie rods, lower control arms, new springs, new struts, new strut mounts, sway bar/control
arm bushings, bearings, brakes, brake hoses, axles. The biggest problem was the left side. The axle would not come
out of the hub after several blows with a sledge, so I removed the whole assembly and tried to press it out with
a 20 ton press but ended up bending the steering knuckle. 2 Used steering knuckles later, new bearings, sourcing
all the seals after getting the wrong ones (idiots), cleaning up the knuckles (they were in baaad shape), new rotors,
calipers, upgrading to 12mm wheel studs..blah..bla..
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All new poly bushing upgrade from Whiteline
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Custom Springs 50% upgrade over stock
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For more on the springs and bushing upgrade, go here:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=47687

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=47684

Rear Upgrades with custom Panhard Bar
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Custom seat install with homemade bracket mod.
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After all that, just to make sure it steers nice, then it was time to fire it up.
After sitting for 2+ years, I had no idea.
When I bought it, it was in pieces and the seller thought he blew the motor and had sourced
out a used block which was included in the sale. The engine had been half disconnected.
When I got it home, I discovered a disintegrated ignition rotor. Counting on this as the main problem,
I concentrated my efforts on the above upgrades first and kept my fingers crossed.

After taking about 10 pounds of crud and gunk off the engine and tranny, replacing/rebuilding
4 motor/tranny mounts, repairing/replacing the airbox/maf, new plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter,
O2 sensor, reparing many broken wires, repairing and repainting radiator and fan (remember the battery
had all but exploded), new hoses, thermostat, battery, rebuilding battery cables..La..la...la..la...
Well with the basic stuff done, I cranked it up. After a couple tries it started to come to life.
After a few quick adjustments, some vacuum leaks repaired it sounded ok except for some knocking.
Still determined the motor was good and the previous owner was just an idiot, I went to the
crank pulley bolt. To my suspicion, it was loose. Knocking problem solved. Tighten it up and down
the road I went.

That's pretty much day 1 of when it came to life.
More pics and upgrades later.


Last edited by JamalSpelling on Tue Oct 26, 2010 10:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 2:12 pm 
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That is pretty awesome! I love seeing guys willing to do stuff like this.


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PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 7:51 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Kinda slow at work today, so I got a chance to upgrade the rear studs
to match the fronts I did a short while back.
Unfortunately, the brakes are toast (explains little or no pedal),
but I knew that 'cause the parking brake barely works.
So only had time to do the studs.
Ended up being the quickest stud swapout ever in about 25 mins.
The old ones came out real easy, tap tap, not like the fronts on the rusted
junkard hubs I rebuilt.
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 8:52 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 4:11 pm 
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Location: Waukegan, IL
You need to be working on that Ghia... :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:22 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Little by little...
Been working on getting rid of the rattles. Dismantled the passenger door,
glued up the window channel gasket that fell apart, cleaned and greased
everything. No more window rattle, took out about 1/2 pound of dust in
the door.
Fixed right side bumper mount. The mount that slides into
the receiver on the fender was hanging by one screw.
New screw and slid it back in. One less little rattle.
Got my new muffler this week. Hoping to get it mounted this week.
That fart can is just too annoying, can't hear myself think.
Got the rear springs dialed in finally. The coil ends were on opposite
sides as opposed to the stock where they're cut on the same sides.
Thought it was a screw up by the Spring Co., turns out only the lower
mount is fixed, the upper goes into a big bushing which you can
reposition to line up the notch. There was a lot of crap up there,
so when I first put them in, it looked like a fixed position. Everything
was brown with silt/mud so it didn't even look like a rubber mount
was up there. After pulling the rear springs out today, the bush
fell out, which was a joy, now I got them lined up properly with
the notches seated on top and bottom.
Had time to do the rear brakes today properly, all new parts,
cut the drums nice and round. Nice to have a pedal again,
The brakes were toast, and the adjusters were maxed out.
Didn't replace the bearings,
but popped out the seals and injected lots o' nice new
clean grease.
Got some nice center caps, but they don't fit by about 1/8".
I've got some ideas about fitting them. Just hate
looking at clean wheels with no center caps.
Popped out the rear hatch panel inside cover, which had the
wrong clips and rattled as well. I mainly got tired of seeing it
with empty speaker holes cut out. Cut a new piece out of
thin plywood and got some new vinyl covering, that should
spruce it up a bit.

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Also got a nice bag of panel clips to secure
it and all the other loose panels in the back.
Pics up as the work progresses this week.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:26 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
I think it's the little details that get me excited..
Like finding a gas door bumper strip to fill that missing void
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Adjusting the hood safetly latch so I can use the button and not fish for the latcher.
This was a hard one, the phillips screws were set tight, and rounded out good. Had to
break out the Mondo Pliers just to get a grip on the heads and get them loose.
Replaced them with bolts just in case for next time.
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Replacing that snapped off antenna mast with a stock, fully functioning antennae.
This was a bitch too, it was missing the end piece for the reciever, I had to splice
the end from the broken cable.
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Here's a couple hours spent working out some serious dents. Big improvement, but still a long way to go.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:33 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
All in all, got some progress this weekend. Like this shock tower brace.
Got a Ebay steal on one for $5, from a Honda, but all I could salvage was
the bracket, and I had to cut that up to make my own anyhow, $50 later.
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Hooking up a new 7 yr/old radio was nice too. Working out some speaker mods and amp upgrade.
Not to mention an old new, cigarette lighter to fill the hole!

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Slowly filling in the dash cracks with some sealer.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:39 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
I was also happy to get my boost gauge hooked up. I bought it
from JC Whitney ages ago for another sprint, but never got around
to hooking it up till now on this other car.
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Funny though it don't show any vacuum, the needle just barely goes below 0.
It's great for boost. The nice thing it shows is how quick it spools (stock turbo),
if your foots on the pedal, then it goes quick to about 5-7psi. When the release
on the I/C spits, it peaks about 15psi.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:21 am 
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Posts: 147
Location: Northern California, USA
Love those rims! Anybody clue me in to whomakw=es those and are they available?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:49 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
They're a pretty standard American Racing wheel, I got em at the swap meet for $100 with tires.
I think the guy said he took em off a Toyota Corolla or Tercell or somethin.
I passed em up the first time till I went and made a quick paper template
from my spare tire, to make sure the bolt holes would line up.
I ditched the 175/70-13's they came with and had em Powdered for about another $150
and made em look like new.
Funny thing is, the car came with the exact same rims in 14", what're the odds?
I got the 14's powdered too, just waiting on $$ for some 195/55-14's.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:46 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Got my performance grind cam today from 3Tech, Whoohoo!

I really lagged on ordering a new timing belt, thought I'd have all
my parts ready. No such luck. I did find a steal on Feebay though,
T-belt, cam & crank seal, and tensioner for about $38 plus tax,
free shipping. I remember paying more than that for just the tensioner.

Didn't let that stop me from poppin in that new cam after work.
So's I got it all in and back together in a couple hours enough
to fire it up. Did run out of light so no test run till I address a few
issues.
First of which is a new fuel leak from the injector seals, fortunately
I keep a couple spare sets. Wigglin them around getting the valve
cover off musta been too much for those old seals.
It does fire right up and idles fine. Mike warned me of a rough idle
with this grind, but not so far.
I did a preliminary valve adjust on a cold motor and they are quite
noisy, so I need to go in and readjust.
The timing belt cover is of course toast on the bottom half, so I
gotta come up with a new one for when I do the belt and seals.
And I ended up chewing up the old v belt as it was hitting the
lower left timing cover bolt ( think I mixed up a longer one in
that spot so it stuck out a bit I guess. )

That was pretty much my late afternoon. I was working against daylight
hoping to get in a test drive, but that'll have to wait till tomorrow.
Sorry, no pics. I'll probably have time to take some when I put
on the new Tbelt. I did discover a small hole in the I/C where it was rubbing
on the bracket, I'll need to address that issue as well.

Can't wait to drive it with the new cam installed.

10/27 update:
Got up early today and finished up.
Patched the pinhole in the I/C, fixed the injector seal leak and
readjusted the valves (I think I was off 360 on the first adjustment because
they were really off).
So yeah, the idle, a bit rough once everything is dialed in, basically
it idles like at has a cam mod. Sounds Bitchin, I had to play with
the idle a bit. I drove it around the block a few times
and it seems pretty strong, gotta get off to work so I didn't even
get it up to operating temp. yet. A full road test is in order soon.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 9:46 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Timing belt and seals have been replaced.
There was a big problem with the crank gear
and crankshaft keyway. It looked like a grenade
went off in there and there wasn't much left
of either, just rounded out cutouts and a near
sheared key. I'm all to familiar with this scenario
when a previous owner runs it too long with a loose
crank pulley. Anyway, with some difficulty, I managed
to get it lined up and back together. The spacer/keeper
behind the crank gear had near cut a groove right through
the oil pump.

Sorry to say, none of the repairs fixed the performance issues
I was having with the new cam. Something's not right and I
can't quite put my finger on it. So for the time being I opted
to put the stock cam back in and see if that would revert it
back to the 'feel it in the seat of your pants when you accelerate'
condition it was prevously. Which is pretty much where I'm back
to now. ( I needed to confirm it was running smooth and eliminate
some of the symptoms I was having when running the performance
cam- in other words I didn't know if I had some problem with other
components or if it was a side effect of the altered cam.) I'm gonna
shelve the altered cam and save it for another day.

So now that it's back to pretty much normal condition, I am now
experiencing the 'Turbo whine of Death". Fortunately I've been sitting
on a custom kit from Turbine Tech and it's a perfect opportunity
to install it. I did manage to get the old manifold/turbo/downtube
off relatively easy and get the new parts test fitted in the better
part of the afternoon. I need to address a few minor issues and
hope to have it again roadworthy in a few days. The most labor
intensive part was cleaning the front of the block, as years
of grime had taken it's toll and made most of the area unrecognizeable.
This alone took a several hours.


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Somewhere in the last month I also found time to install the
Whiteline rear Poly bushings. And they do make it handle that
much better.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 3:31 pm 
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Location: Willow River B.C.
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So... you replaced that rotor right?

Car is lookin good, you gotta find another dash pad though.

Scott

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 7:54 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Lots of progress this weekend. Got 'er pretty much installed.

I drilled and tapped the manifold flange for the EGR port and
fabricated a tube and used a bunch of brass fittings and adaptors
to plumb it to the downtube.
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I ended up painting the manifold to protect it from rust, used the Rustoleum high heat BBQ paint
with a brush. Then heat wrapped the manifold and then sealed the wrap with more high temp paint.

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I had to make my own gaskets for the downtube and b/o valve, the stock turbo to manifold gasket worked
perfectly. I bolted everything up and used allen head stud type bolts (set screws) with stainless nuts and washers.
I lucked out and found an exhaust adaptor for the 2.50 to 2.25 downtube joint.
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The rest of the hardware was included in the kit from Jard. I really didn't like how they figured the airbox
connection, so rather than flip the MAF and do more mods I pretty much just left it stock. I did trim
the stock chrome intake tube slightly and used one of the old i/c hoses trimmed slightly to connect
to the intake on the turbo. The i/c mount bolts weren't included, but I had some in my spare parts box.
Everything else went rather well with a few trips to the hardware and auto parts store for bits and pieces.

This is how the figured the maf without an airbox.
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And actual close to stock configuration...
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The most disappointing part was having to trim the bumper to clear the i/c. A little here, a little there turned out
to gutting the lower horizontal grill portion and additional trimming.
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I need to work out a stone screen or something. Also a heat shield is in order so I don't melt the
grill because of the close proximity of the turbo.

I got it running and let it warm up to burn of the paint and other grease/grime.
The Blitz b/o sounds funny. Almost like a waaah waaahaaa.
A full test drive is in order and some more tweaking.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 12:57 pm 
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Runs pretty darn good. Boost went from the factory 8lbs on up to
about 13lbs. Lag times increased a bit, that was expected
with all the extra piping, but once it kicks in it takes off nice.

No full throttle runs yet, the fuel cut kicked in a few times and
the ck engine light, so I don't know if it's gonna 'settle in' or if
I'm gonna have to turn down the boost or what.

My biggest problem right now is all the extra heat. That's gotta be
addressed or my grill's gonna be toast. Anything on or near the turbo
is gonna be fried real good.

EDIT:

The Blitz valve doesn't work. It sounded funny, but that ended up
being flutter.

I took it apart and lubed it. Then took it apart and cut the spring.
Then cut more. Nothing, just flutter at low revs.

I'm thinking of ordering the softy spring. I'm pretty sure it must
have come with the hard spring. Compared to the stock BOV,
the difference was huge. 2 thumbs to open the Blitz, 1 pinky to
open the stock.

I'm gonna see if I can fit on the stock BOV and see what happens.

EDIT:

I switched the vacuum lines around and got a better source.
Apparently the line I was using had no vacuum, only boost.
Hence, the reading on the boost gauge - I just thought the
gauge didn't work right. So now I'm pulling 17-20hg vacuum
but still cant get the BOV to work with the vacuum assist, cut
spring and adjustment to max loose. Major flutter even with
small amount of boost. I'm gonna try to round up a soft spring
today, if not I'll have to spend the $25 internet price for a
Blitz soft spring. If I can't find one today around town,
I'm gonna mount the stock bov for shits n giggles.

What gets me is there was no flutter with the stock turbo,
and the BOV never spit till about 10psi, now with light boost
there's major flutter.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:22 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Lot's of work done this weekend.
Got the BOV problem sorted out.
A $5 ebay BOV solved the problem and
works perfectly. I did have to make an adaptor
as the base was larger than the blitz. I like the
design better, it has more features, not no mention
you can clock the top part.
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I got a heat sheild made up and installed.
It's held in place with mighty magnets that were
jb welded to the plate and some zip ties to make
sure it doesn't rattle.
I made up a mat for the rear cargo with some
marine vinyl.
The old chrome plated center caps were painted
black and I peeled of the AR logo and put on some
nifty Suzuki logo centers. The rear junkyard bumper flares
were also mounted up.

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 7:52 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Very pleased with the performance!
I'm getting her dialed in little by little. The turbo seems to have
settled in and I'm not getting the fuel cut anymore.
I'm on a hunt for bigger injectors.
I got my Hobb's switch wired up for install for the CSI mod.
amplifier wired up for stereo upgrade and I ordered an
AEM Uego Wideband analog air/fuel gauge so I can start
really tuning it. I'll be upgrading the single pillar mount gauge
pod to a double as well which I'll be mounting on some
better condition junkyard find pillar covers and relocating the
tweeters as well up higher near the headliner.
The temptation is too strong not to stomp on it, I'm still
driving around carefully till I can see where it's at with the
air/fuel gauge installed. I did get a little aggressive with the
throttle and she seems to scoot along real well. Seems a bit much
though for the stock muffler, I half expect to launch it right
off the pipe but do love the sound it makes trying to tame all
that exhaust.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:59 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Spent all weekend in various convoluted positions installing
and wiring up the air/fuel gauge and CSI Hobb's switch injector
mod.

I had to remove the downtube to have another bung welded on for
the air/fuel gauge, then trimmed, fitted and mounted the dual
pillar gauge pod and ran all new gauge wiring neatly not to mention
relocating speakers on the pillar due to the larger gauge pod.
Fabbed a bracket for the Hobb's switch to mount on the side
of the throttle body and wired and plumbed all that in to a
lighted on/off switch that completes the ground while leaving
the timed injector sensor still in the circuit. I've got an LED
wired in that should light up whenever the cold start injector
fires.

Pics and video to follow.

My back is killing me..........

Image


Last edited by JamalSpelling on Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:04 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:21 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Here's the schematic of the Hobb's fab.
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I've tapped into the fuse block and used the rear defroster
circuit (which is currently not functioning because of
broken wiring issues in the rear hatch) so there's plenty
of power available in this 15a circuit. We only need a bit
anyway to energize the relay and power the air/fuel gauge.
The fuse tap plugs right into the existing fuse and adds
another fused circuit, clean and simple and no wire cutting
or splicing required. And the circuit is energized only when
in the run position, so I can power up the radio in ACC. and
not power the CSI circuit or gauge.
When in the RUN position, the relay is energized. Power to
the CSI circuit is wired directly to the battery through a fused
link, the relay, CSI, hobbs and a switch completes the ground.
When I want to add the CSI under load, I simply flip the switch
to complete the circuit. The lighted switch tells me the circuit
is active, and the CSI activates only when the Hobb's senses
4psi. The LED is wired in parallel and placed next to the
air/fuel and boost gauge and indicates when the CSI is
adding more fuel.


Last edited by JamalSpelling on Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:03 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:00 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
So it turns out the CSI addition seems unnecessary as it
runs extremely rich as it is after putting on the bigger turbo.
Currently set at about 10lbs of boost, the stock fuel system
is running 10:1 kicking in at about 5-6lbs. of boost. I went
through a tank of gas pretty quick.
I've attempted to compensate by adjusting the MAF spring,
which was previously set to run rich with the stock turbo
by 1 click looser, now I've set it 2 clicks tighter than stock
which puts the initial fuel ratio about 10.75:1 to 11:1 which tapers
leaner about 12:1 as you reach WOT. Gonna try 1 more click
tighter to try to get 11.5:1 - 12:1 which is the desired ratio
under boost.
It's begun to overheat on short trips, so I've ordered a new
radiator (Feebay $69.00) to address the issue. Also going
to wrap the downtube to help control heat and put in a
165 thermostat.
There's a lot more tweaking ahead to get it running to it's
true potential.
I've also lightly ported and cleaned up a spare manifold which
should help flow better, just no time to install it yet.

(Edit Jan 2013: Radiator was a waste of money, go with the Suzuki Swift Aluminum Radiator
on Ebay for $100, also DO NOT USE EXHAUST WRAP, this was a BIG MISTAKE and cost me
a lot of $$$ in the near future)

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Last edited by JamalSpelling on Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:15 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 2:53 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Had the downtube join cleaned up a bit today.
Installed a flange and flex coupler.
Before & after pics:

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Image


Last edited by JamalSpelling on Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 3:03 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
New flow matched set 380cc injectors from Five-O

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(Edit Jan 2013: I have yet to need the 380's, after trying many sizes
the best results were 320's at stock fuel pressure)


Last edited by JamalSpelling on Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 6:01 pm 
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Location: Palmdale, Ca
Can you tell me the part number for those injectors? Thanks

Edit: are they F87E380?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:43 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Yes, that's the Five-O number on their site.
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/import-high-performance-fuel-injectors/?itemid=349

The injectors are labeled Ford F87E-D28

They sent new clips as well.
Spliced 'em right in and cleaned up the harness.

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Last edited by JamalSpelling on Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:33 am, edited 2 times in total.

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