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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 10:01 pm 
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Location: Arvada, CO
What are your thoughts on sourcing/building an LSD?

Van


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 7:19 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
I did get the axle swapped out.

Unfortunately, it took two tries as I had ordered the wrong side.
So once I got it all apart and compared the axles,
after a few expletives, I discovered my error. Another week
wait for the right one. I do like the quality so far and it
seemed to have cured (so far) my pulling problem.
So the LSD project may be on hold. I haven't really been getting
on it as much yet, so time will tell.
The old axle was pretty far gone, I haven't cut off the boot yet
to see the damage, but there is considerable play in the CV joint.
This wasn't just a gradual clicky clicky sound, but a deafening
clunk. Nice to be behind the wheel again.

Also took the time to swap out the master cylinder as I was having
some intermittent stopping issues. The pedal reaction is much nicer
now, it'll be a few dozen more stops to see if it was some other issue
like pads or calipers. Nothing like having a firm foot on the pedal
and no stopping power - it tends to sharpen one's reaction times
very quickly.

I had also swapped out the plugs for some Denso Iridium that I
had laying around just for shit's 'n giggles, but I'm definately
getting some low RPM hiccups so I think I should go back to the
tried 'n true standard NGK's.

Also got some more header issues as the ceramic coating all
but flakes off. Jard was good enough to offer to recoat, but
not sure if I really want to send it back to Canada and have a
month wait or just pay the $125 and have it done local in
less than a week. There's some sealing issues as well,
so I need to have the flange machined and the worst part
of it all is the nifty EGR tube I paid extra for has cracked
so that needs to be repaired as well. I'm assuming it has to
do with the sealing issue on the flange as that side of the
header is buttoned up kinda tight as I was trying to get it to
seal. This header is the key ingredient to the power and
coolness factor, but fabrication issues have been a major
headache.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 7:08 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Image

Today I got my EGR tube rewelded where it had cracked.
Also got the header resurfaced so I should have no
more sealing issues, and no worries of the EGR tube
cracking from overtightening the header to get a
good seal.
I don't have too much room to work with when it's all
bolted up so I'm gonna have to come up with a thicker
exhaust manifold to take up the slack.

Image
Image

I'm gonna try to swap out the head, hook up the MR2 Maf
and get 'er up and running for this weekends meet at
Palm Desert!


Last edited by JamalSpelling on Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:52 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
man! you must have the worst luck ever!

the turbo3 manifolds i have gotten from turbine tech are works of art and have given me zero problems with fit or finish.

i picked up this turbine tech manifold and turbo, used, from a canadian member who raced with it for a season and there's no wear on the ceramic coating. it still has a nice matte sheen on the silver. i'm sure it got hot on the little race car.
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do you run a support bracket from the turbo to the block?
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 6:11 pm 
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Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Since Team Swift Farted last month, I'm spending my morning coffee
time restoring pics to my main posts. I thought hosting them on the
site would be the safest bet, but now I'm linking the lost ones to
offsite hosting.

In the meantime, I have an update:

Overhaul time!

Image
Image


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 6:23 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
I had a spare block to take in to make the swap easier,
but it would not go back together with the new pistons.

Imagine that, Normally Aspirated pistons in a Turbo Block!
Image

Of course it was a stroke of luck as they were getting ready to assemble it
without shot peening the rods like I asked. So, lucky they didn't work.
I had to round up a set of rods, have them shot peened elsewhere and
bring them in so they could complete the assembly.
Image

Polishing another intake..
Good experience with the first one, now I've learned some shortcuts to move through
this tedious task a bit quicker and cleaner. The main tip I can offer is invest in some
good quality files. They cut down the time a lot and I like them because they keep the
dust down as opposed to a grinder. If you use a lubricant, it helps a lot and also lessens
the dust as well and I do most of the work on top of a microfiber shop towel which also
helps to keep the dust and filings contained. Make sure the files are coated with some oil
first to keep the aluminum from sticking, WD40 seems to work good. Files don't wear out
like sandpaper, so it keeps the cost down too! When you are ready for sanding it requires
even less wet sandpaper because the surface is already fairly smooth.
Image

New Trans kit...this should be fun
Image

Lots of other goodies in store too!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 5:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2009 2:18 pm
Posts: 199
Location: San Diego , CA (alpine)
JamalSpelling wrote:
I had a spare block to take in to make the swap easier,
but it would not go back together with the new pistons.

Imagine that, Normally Aspirated pistons in a Turbo Block!
Image

Of course it was a stroke of luck as they were getting ready to assemble it
without shot peening the rods like I asked. So, lucky they didn't work.
I had to round up a set of rods, have them shot peened elsewhere and
bring them in so they could complete the assembly.
Image

Polishing another intake..
Good experience with the first one, now I've learned some shortcuts to move through
this tedious task a bit quicker and cleaner. The main tip I can offer is invest in some


good quality files. They cut down the time a lot and I like them because they keep the
dust down as opposed to a grinder. If you use a lubricant, it helps a lot and also lessens
the dust as well and I do most of the work on top of a microfiber shop towel which also
helps to keep the dust and filings contained. Make sure the files are coated with some oil
first to keep the aluminum from sticking, WD40 seems to work good. Files don't wear out
like sandpaper, so it keeps the cost down too! When you are ready for sanding it requires
even less wet sandpaper because the surface is already fairly smooth.
Image

New Trans kit...this should be fun
Image

Lots of other goodies in store too!

So when thats done you have room to do mine :)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 5:30 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Quote:
So when thats done you have room to do mine


You still don't have your beasty together?!
I know you have some parts I need! Give me a shout someday. :D


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 11:32 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Replacing the bearings and seals.
Now's a good time to fit an LSD, anybody got one?

Image


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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 1:42 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Thanks Balli!

MK1 LSD

Now I can finally put 'er back together!

Attachment:
MK1LSD.jpg
MK1LSD.jpg [ 120.38 KIB | Viewed 3367 times ]


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:41 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
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Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 8:02 pm 
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Did the bearings you removed look like that as they sat inside the transmission or were they just munched up during the removal procedure?

And the pictures showing how to use the bearing removal tool are great. I always wondered how those two wedge shaped halves worked and its only now I see they're threaded for long bolts to pull the bearing off.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 8:18 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
No, the bearings were fine.
(I tried to describe that in the visuals...review the numbered pic)
I probably wouldn't have replaced them, but I thought they
were making noise.
Bad noise, when the clutch pedal was let out @ idle in neutral.
Unfortunately, now I see the bearings aren't showing any
perceptible visual wear.
I can only assume that it was the main engine crank thrust
bearing making noise. There is a lot of play in the crank
(side to side) so I know the thrust bearing is probably toast.

My last recent engine overhaul had the same symptom, though
not as bad. I overhauled the motor, but didn't touch the trans,
now the noise is virtually gone. That had major side to side
play in the crank as well.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:56 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 11:40 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
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This LSD is really freaking me out! Very radical design, there are no bearings! Just gears,
I bet it's gonna be noisy.

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Image

When I pressed on the bearing and speedo gear as one unit, since the speedo gear landing on the
diff was not as tall as OE, the bearing is rubbing on the speedo gear. I have to figure out how to
separate them. I think I'll try to use the bearing splitter to move up the bearing ever so slightly
to get enough clearance.

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 2:45 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
This has been a royal pain in the ass, but I'm happy to say I finally
have some progress.

I had initially tried to install the LSD and bolt the 2 case halves together,
but the LSD was too long and I had to eliminate about 4mm somehow.
In the process I almost ruined a shaft bearing as the cage came off
and all the little rollers went everywhere. I was able to put it back
together and snap the cage back on without destroying the bearing.

Most of this is trial and error and some creative thinking.
I had to source some different bearings for the diff. Since the OE
bearings are 17mm thick, I went with a 15mm bearing.
The only ones I could find were high tolerance and I landed a pair
at $50 per bearing...at least they'll spin smooth and seem to spin
forever. However when I got the bearings they were the roller tapered
design where the race is permanently attached, but allow some play,
so the bearings need to be fully seated in the case halves. This created
a difficult installation.

After installing the bearings, there was further interference with the
speedo gear, which now hit on the case half since the bearings were
not as thick as OE.

I did a buttload of measuring and figuring best I could with tape measures,
calipers and mics, but I'm no machinist, so most of it was guesswork
within a certain range of tolerance.

All said and done, I had the speedo gear bearing machined to look like
a 'top hat' so that it wouldn't rub on the case half and still have enough
gear to contact and run the speedo cable mechaninsm. This also
required a spacer (approx. 1mm) that I installed between the
bearing and speedo gear.

This took a bunch of fitting. First of all I had to grind the inside
of the case so the body of the LSD would rotate without hitting,
then I had to diagnose interference I was having which ended
up being that the speedo gear teeth had been slightly malformed
either during the removal/installation or during the machining.
Very light filing on 2 of the gear surfaces seemed to clear it up,
but it was a pain in the butt to figure it out in the first place.

With that cleared up, I had to space the speedo gear side bearing as
close as possible to fully seat in the case half. This required minute adjustments
and test fitting installing in both case halves and using a feeler gauge
to determing how much more I needed to move the bearing/speedo gear
combo either forward or backwards. Extremely frustrating and it really
tried my patience, I felt the need to destroy something violently, but
eventually my patience won.

With everything lined up, I was ready to put the halves together yet
once again with fingers crossed. A last minute delay tested my patience
once again as I realized there was problem with the 5th/reverse gear shift fork/shaft.
I had found an extra ball and set it aside. Well since this assembly requires
2 balls and a spring, it took a while to figure it out. Using the FSM,
I got lucky and figured it out as I did have the one missing ball and
the other mysterious ball and spring..well the 2nd ball was there but
was lodged in the shaft under spring pressure. I had to remove all the
shafts again, tap out the ball that was wedged in (which went flying
under spring pressure and I had to crawl to find it), clean the ball shaft hole
install the spring and ball, 2nd ball, chuck it in a vise and put the
5th/reverse gear shift fork/shaft back to proper assembly.

OK so I put all the shit back together in the case half, run a bead
of Loctite 518 and prayed it would go together.

So after much trial and tribulation, grinding the case half, installing a spacer,
machining the speedo gear, and fitting different thickness bearings
I successfully got the 2 case halves back together with everything installed
correctly and am as happy as a clam.

Lot of work ahead, but at least I have overcome the hurdle of fitting
the so called Bali MK1 direct fit Torsen LSD in my Stateside tranny
case.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 8:57 pm 
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Location: Arvada, CO
Wow! Good luck and hope it works out. If so, then all that work will be so worth it!

Van


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 11:53 pm 
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Location: Palmdale, Ca
JamalSpelling wrote:
so called Bali MK1 direct fit Torsen LSD

It may be a direct fit for the mk1 gti but the turbo 3 and mk1 gti trans are different. It's probably pretty similar to fitting a mk2 gti and mk3 gt LSD in a t3 trans.

_________________
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 8:48 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Well yeah, he said he fitted one in over there.
Guess he didn't know the difference and seemed pretty sure
it would fit. Far as I know, only case grinding is required to
fit a MK2/3 in MK1 and overall length is not an issue.
But I may be wrong, this whole thing was a learning experience,
I have limited experience taking these apart and fitting
something that wasn't designed to fit. Guess I'm an expert
now. At least we know now what it takes to fit his Diff.
Can't wait to get it all back together and try it out!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:07 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
For the sake of continuity,
here's what not to do when installing
the gear shifting mechanism.

Attachment:
problem.jpg
problem.jpg [ 135.97 KIB | Viewed 2996 times ]


http://teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=56792&p=425462#p425462

Fortunately, I have some spares, but this will be a significant
delay till I dig them out of storage on some spare trans I
have with synchro issues. And of course there's always
the boneyards.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:41 pm 
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thanks for pic's and good advice
Note to self......... ( Don't buy moonshine out of a van from a guy with no teeth married to his sister
and reread "Jamalspelling post on MK1 T3 Transaxle rebuild) jv&s
.
.

_________________
.

t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 2:02 pm 
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Yup!

Plenty of more info here on Phil's post,
I've chimed in with a few tips as well.

http://teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=42589


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 7:32 am 
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1987TurboSprint wrote:
It may be a direct fit for the mk1 gti but the turbo 3 and mk1 gti trans are different.



What's different about them? Will a Mk1 GTi transmission fit on a Mk1 turbo trans bellhousing? If it does then you could have saved yourself a lot of time and effort and aggravation by using a GTi trans on a turbo bellhousing. Your dedication and perseverance is awe inspiring. I've recently started trying to fix my cars rather than just buying another one off Craig's List. ( I have 17 or 18 or 19 Forsas, Sprints, Fireflies, Swifts, Geos and Metros, and I totally love the 1998 Geo Metro 4 door sedan I'm driving now that I bought a week or two ago, but out of the 17 or 18 or 19 only one and a half of them are driveable). But so far I'm finding out that trying to fix them is a real F-cking pain in the A-s, and much harder than surfing Craig's List every day, so I really enjoy checking out your build threads and the excellent pictures in them to help me muster up some motivation to keep plugging away at fixing my cars.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 3:31 pm 
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There are some small differences. They will bolt to the block and use the same flywheel and clutch but I'm not sure if the mk1 axle splines are the same. The mk2&3 axles are different but the mk1's might just be different length and swap with the 3cyl axles. Worst case you'd have to get axles made, not a huge hurdle. The big hurdle is they didn't sell the mk1 gti's in North America and were only made 2 years over seas, good luck finding a good used trans. Most likely it would be from Australia so the shipping cost alone would be a killer.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:08 pm 
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1987TurboSprint wrote:
The big hurdle is they didn't sell the mk1 gti's in North America and were only made 2 years over seas



Now that I think about it, yes, I've never actually seen seen a Mk1 GTi in person. The only GTis I've actually seen in person have been Mk2s, but maybe a Mk2 GTi transmission might bolt up to a Mk1 turbo bellhousing. Once I get a sufficient number of daily drivers back on the road I want to take one of my Mk1 turbos and start maxing it out horsepower and handling wise, like putting a G16B 16 valve in it with turbo and nitrous, or maybe a Mister Too supercharger or something,and wide low profile tires and lower it.


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