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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2003 1:40 am 
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Location: columbus, ohio
jar,

as usual, you are a wealth of knowledge.

i've played with volumetric and laminar flow theory on lots of systems, but i've actually done little on the practical application towards turbo installation. i've built some killer tuned exhaust systems for schnurle principal 2 stroke engines, though.

one of the problems i ran into with a 3 into one header was that the darned pipe from the #2 cylinder always caused scavenging to run the center cylinder's deck temp up. that center pipe is always just that much shorter than the outer 2. i was always able to compensate by jetting my center carb a little bigger to quench the deck temp on #2.

i don't think even the MPFI fuel system can compensate (i don't think that the o2 sensor is fast enough to detect the condition.) i happen to be of the "equal length tubing" camp and the "shortest distance" camp when it comes to manifold design with acknowledgement to the equal volume group (the guys who get happy with a grinding burr to "cc" their intake and exhaust runners to equal volume.)

i appreciate your thoughts on all these matters, i revere the man with the torch in his hands over the theoriticians as the man who actually fits up the plumbing makes the dream come true.

best regards, richard

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2003 9:23 am 
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The mad quebecer
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one of the problems i ran into with a 3 into one header was that the darned pipe from the #2 cylinder always caused scavenging to run the center cylinder's deck temp up.


That's interesting. It would be great to know the temperature difference between the cylinders. The middle runner get hotter, that's understandable because it's surrounded by two other very hot runners while the outsides ones aren't. I think the increase in temperature would be minimal though. These pipes are thick and will most likely spread the heat evenly throught the entire manifold, just like a cast one. The beefier pipes also reduce heat loss and increase thermal efficiency. I don't think it's comparable to a thin headers tubing. If there was to be a temperature increase in the #2 cyl, it would probably be caused by the radiant heat from the runner itself and has nothing to do with the non-equal lenght. Beside it's alway wise to install a good EGT gauge to monitor exhaust gaz temp and to accurately tune the engine.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2003 2:36 am 
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Location: columbus, ohio
" Beside it's alway wise to install a good EGT gauge to monitor exhaust gaz temp and to accurately tune the engine."

jar,

because most of my tuning has been done on vintage race cars that needed desperately to not have additional instrumentation, i got into the habit of using non-contacting, laser sighted pyrometers to read temps.

i only instrumented one of my restorations and then i either spot welded or epoxied a small thermocouple at a point of measurement and then ran all the thermocouples to an I/O scanner that jacked into my laptop. the scanner strobed all the temps into a big display on the navigator's perch.

once i was satisfied with the operation and tuning, i knocked off all the thermocouple beads, welded or glued, with an automatic center punch that i had ground the tip flat on. the only remaining instrumentation was original to the car's production.

i'd really like to keep my instrumentation to a minimum and had it narrowed down to boost pressure, oil pressure, oil temperature, and fuel/air ratio.

every gauge means one less biscuit i get to eat :roll:

best regards, richard

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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