TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
It is currently Mon Oct 23, 2017 12:33 am

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 30 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:05 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Turbo Sprint Died on the way home and I had to have it towed.

Classic symptoms of a timing belt, however when it died on the freeway
I popped the clutch to try to restart, I had RPM indicated but no fire
so I pulled it over and called for a tow. Didn't think much of it till later,
as if it was the Tbelt, since the distributor fires the RPM cluster, if the
belt was indeed gone, I wouldn't be showing RPM.

It wasn't the belt.

Image


Last edited by JamalSpelling on Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:38 am, edited 2 times in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:11 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
THE CARNAGE:

Image

Image

Image

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:19 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
The Overhaul:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:25 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
ONE MONTH LATER:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:30 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:42 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
DETAILS:

Rebuilt Short Block
Teflon Coated Vitara Piston Upgrade
Balanced
New Timing Cover, Tensioner & Belt
New PCV
New Throttle Cable

Centerforce Clutch Kit

Mildly Ported Intake & Head
Standard Head Rebuild
Dvorak No-Blow Headgasket
Reuseable Head Bolts

Fainya Rebuilt Distributor
New NGK Wires
Mallory Coil

New Side Motor Mount
New Transmission Torque Strut

Most hoses replaced, OE Rad Hoses & Silicone hose upgrades

Boneyard Brake Valve Replacement
New Idiot Light Sensor
New Washer Tubing

New Right Side Axle

And a bunch of other crap I can't remember now....

Pain in the ass, but got to keep 'Old Reliable' up and running.
Almost made it to 700k miles, but I'm there now!

Image

Image

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 4:08 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
:mrgreen:



Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 1:06 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 8:53 am
Posts: 100
Location: Northwest
Nice job, looks like it will be a good car for many more miles!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 1:37 am 
Offline
@ssclown

Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
Great pictures, thanks. I have 11 Mk1s and I never knew there was a grommet for the hood prop hole until I saw it in your picture. All eleven of my grommets were stolen off my cars before I bought them. Hmmmmm....... Where did you get that grommet?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 11:20 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
$400 smog check

$40 smog, $340 catalytic converter, $20 retest, $8.25 cert

Attachment:
SMOG.jpg
SMOG.jpg [ 389.77 KIB | Viewed 6004 times ]


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 11:41 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
10 Years on a Cat ain't bad...

Here's a breakdown on the history,
though something tells me I may have done something
drastic in 2007. That data has been currently misplaced,
I'll bet I had to replace again in 07?

Attachment:
CAT042003.jpg
CAT042003.jpg [ 131.73 KIB | Viewed 6003 times ]


Attachment:
SMOGHISTORY.jpg
SMOGHISTORY.jpg [ 139.68 KIB | Viewed 6003 times ]


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 12:02 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Now a comparison of 2003 and 2013
both with new cats but different pistons and compression ratio.

So if I recall correctly I had already done the motor in before '03
so it was relatively fresh,
and in 2013 we're talkin 500 miles on a fresh rebuild.

There may be a few variables, but I have a feeling the
quality of the CA Certified cat in 2013 is much better
than the '03 cat. Also in '03 we may have had some
action from the pre-cat, but now we can dismis
the pre cat and presume all the action performed
is solely by the main cat.

I was curious how the new lower, compression motor
stacked up against the OE, but alas we cannot assume
a direct comparison.

Attachment:
CATCOMP.jpg
CATCOMP.jpg [ 169.95 KIB | Viewed 6003 times ]


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 12:07 pm 
Offline
a.k.a Bum head
User avatar

Joined: Mon May 31, 2004 5:29 pm
Posts: 3157
Location: London, ON
That's a lot of cash for a cat. I recall buying a compact "racing" cat for about $90 which worked perfectly and passed the following etest with flying colours. Granted if you have a particular reason (need to be smog certified if you're in Cali) then I suppose you didn't have a choice. :lol:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:15 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
All was good till a sudden loss of power happened suddenly after
a recent errand. It felt like either super retarted timing or virtually
no boost.
I decided to check boost first and installed a $20 harbor freight boost
gauge with an old gauge pod I had lying around and found out I
was not producing any boost. However the 'Turbo' light still
illuminated under acceleration, but the boost gauge confirmed
there was no boost other than atmospheric pressure filling
up the cylinders.
Suspecting a frozen impeller, removing and inspecting the turbo
did not reveal anything other than a little shaft play. Since I
have a spare turbo, I thought I may as well swap them out
at this time.
While continuing to inspect the old turbo, I happened to notice
something fall out, not recognizing this as anything turbo related,
I just assumed I knocked a piece of metal off the workbench.
It bothered me for about an hour or so until I realized what it was...
Shrapnel from the recent carnage.

I had recoverd the valve head in the cylinder and since I replaced
the motor, didn't consider that any pieces made it into the exhaust.
That wasn't the case as I identified the shrapnel as a portion of
the valve stem.

Image

I can only assume it had finally wedged itself in and was preventing
the turbo from spinning.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:51 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Finally got all disassembled and now beginning to swap the
turbos after pulling some stuff out of my stash.

Image

I spent the next few days assessing & collecting the parts I would need to complete the
task ahead of me and do a quality repair that was worthy of the time
I would be spending on it.

Since I had all the major parts, it was just a matter of lining up some
hardware, fasteners and a few specialty items.

Image

It took up a few days & lunch hours fill the list:
Replacement studs in both 10 x1.25 & 8 x1.25
Collared nuts & bolts in both 10 x1.25 & 8 x1.25
(Optional) Hardened nuts in both 10 x1.25 & 8 x1.25
(Optional) #10 stainless washers
Taps & Dies in both 10 x1.25 & 8 x1.25
New Copper sealing washers for the oil fittings
New Replacement turbo intake tube replacement O-rings
& some other parts for a radiator upgrade & MBC install
And a heavy duty stud puller

I started with the Manual Boost Controller I had recently purchased
on Ebay. It came with 2 different sized barbs, so I had to replace
the barb to the actuator as it was too small OD for the tubing.
In addition, I had to find a micro drill bit to drill a vent hole
in the barb fitting. It's to relieve pressure so the actuator releases
after you let up on the throttle, since the MBC has a spring loaded
ball check, the wastegate would stay (pressurized) open if you
don't have the vent.
Also, I got a really great deal on this MBC
on Ebay for like $7, but when I inspected it while adding some
teflon tape to the barbs, the check ball was badly rusted requiring
cleaning & polishing, then I installed a light coat of grease to
keep it from gumming up.

Image

Here is the MBC installed on the Turbo, allowing easy access for adjustment.
This is about as basic & simple an installation as you can do.
It should perform best this way, with a minimum of routing and
shortest run possible.

Image


Last edited by JamalSpelling on Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:58 am, edited 3 times in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 2:06 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Moving on to cleaning up & installing the manifold & downtube,
I wanted to use a manifold I had previously ported, but had
snapped a bolt in it.
I drilled it out to use an extractor bit, but the extractor snapped
in the bolt and then couldn't further drill out the bolt because
the extractor that had broken off was hardened steel and a
bit wouldn't touch it. You can see it here on the top in this
comparison.

Image

I started porting the manifold I just took off, then tried to extract a
stud that had stripped when I removed the turbo, and my Harbor
Freight stud pullers didn't work, so I found this KD puller that worked
bitchin after I let penetrating oil soak in overnight.

Image

Here you can see the previously ported manifold on the top that
was unuseable due to the broken bolt in the hole, then the
recently ported manifold and the untouched one on the bottom.

Image

Manifolds almost ready, drying with some Rustoleum High Heat BBQ paint.
Just gotta let it dry, then a little more porting in the throat area to match
up with the gasket.

Image

Made sure to clean the threads before installing the new hardware.

Image

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 5:48 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Finished the port match on the turbo side to match
the manifold throat with the gasket. The Turbo itself
was already a near perfect match.

Image

All mounted up in the vice, ready for install.

Image

Mounted to the block.

Image

Boost gauge line tapped into IAC stepper motor line.

Image

Boost gauge all mounted up. Used a fuse tap to add a power circuit
to the defunct rear defogger circuit in order to power the lighting circuit
(multiple color LED selection lighting). Nice easy way to tap some power,
other 2 wires go to ground and yellow goes to dash lamps.

Image

A little more performance mod to the pulleys while I was in there.
Shaving off the A/C ring and drilling the W/P pulley for weight
saves a pound or two of rotating mass.

Image

Also upgraded the radiator & thermostat. It was running a bit hot at high speeds
on long trips. This should cure it.

Image

Ready for test drive & dial in the boost! :D


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 3:11 am 
Offline
@ssclown

Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
Great posts, it gets me motivated to get some of my turbos back on the road. Where did you get the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket? My understanding is they are no longer available.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:01 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
I just reused the old one.
They are fairly robust and last virtually forever.
Unless yours is obviously cracked or worse for wear
you should be able to reuse it.

If not, just cut a new one easily from sheet
aluminum, brass or copper. Easily available at
any metal outlet, hardware store or hobby shop.
You just need a drill, some tin snips, gloves and
patience.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:08 pm 
Offline
@ssclown

Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
^^^Thanks for the information. That's really good to know. I have three used turbo engines that are supposed to run good which I'm just going to swap in rather than dicking around trying to fix the warped heads and blown gaskets on the engines in my cars so I'll need to swap the turbos over and it was really bugging me that new turbo to manifold gaskets were no longer available.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 9:17 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:37 pm
Posts: 28
Location: tucson arizona usa
would you be interested in selling me one of those three exhaust manifolds you have I could use intake systems too. please call or post reply. its 8/15/2013 7:15 Arizona time right now. 520-481-2795.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 8:58 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Little update on this project....

Nothing like fresh powder on the rims and new rubber. :mrgreen:
175/50-13's

Tight parking spots are a cinch, and the slightly undersized tires
make for a peppy ride!

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:13 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 3:52 am
Posts: 1540
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
nice project to read...

you need to paint front bumper ;]

_________________
sorry bout my bad english


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:16 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Old reliable has failed again.

One of those WTF?! moments we all dread.

You know, when your perfect running little scoot suddenly
dies at the stoplight and you know it's not going to start up again.
Well, fortunately it did restart, a life saving 5 second burst before
it gave up for good, just enough to get through the intersection
and over to the side.

This is when you're glad your auto club dues have been paid and
your cell phone has plenty of juice.

After checking the basics and pulling a #23 IAT trouble code,
I wasn't so sure the intake air sensor could pull the spark and
cripple my ride, but figured a bad MAF would so I start by checking
the IAT sensor in the MAF and then trace the circuit back to the ECM,
which all checks out fine. I plug in a known good MAF just for fun which
changes nothing, still no spark or start up.

Checking the ECM once again now revealed multiple codes,
(they were there all along, I guess I just didn't expect more than
one during the first check.).
Codes # 14, 21 ,23, 33.

Suddenly having a bad CTS, TPS, IAT & MAF all at once is pretty
unlikely, so it must be the ECM has finally failed.
A replacement did eliminate the codes, but still no spark.
Banking on the coil as the culprit, the resistance of the
primary (1.0 ) and secondary (6.9) circuits aren't in OE specs,
(but why would they be it's a 20 year old aftermarket
Mallory Coil) and also differ from a fairly new Blaster 2 coil.
So swapping the coil seems to bring it back to life instantly.

Still don't know what happened, but I figure the coil puked
and took out that branch of circuits in the ECM.
Definately not something you're going to fix on the road unless
you carry a spare computer in your road kit.

Image

I'll keep my fingers crossed that the fix is complete, and take advantage of
the space to do some other needed repairs up before I have to give the
garage spot back. =)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 5:11 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 07, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 87
Location: AZ
JamalSpelling wrote:
Old reliable has failed again.


Still don't know what happened, but I figure the coil puked
and took out that branch of circuits in the ECM.
Definately not something you're going to fix on the road unless
you carry a spare computer in your road kit.

)


Just wondering if you tested or how you're sure the old computer is dead? It's a big fear of mine as I only have one car :buzz: I recently sparked a wrench next to my alternator and the car had no dashboard lights even after all (Box) fuses and relays checked out ; I thought F***Me I fried the ECM computer. Then, when I checked the FSM, there was a code for a failed ECM as a steady flat light.
Attachment:
ECMfail.jpg
ECMfail.jpg [ 67.28 KIB | Viewed 5151 times ]
That's when I figured (correctly or not i.e.no code RED flat line=good ECM?) it wasn't the ECM. After a day of frustration I finally had to learn a lot about fusible link wires off the battery to protect charging circuit and repaired it. Anyway just curious if a computer can go and not give the code RED Flat line ?


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 30 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group