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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Just installed an aluminum radiator on another ride and
put together a DIY guide as I've been getting some questions
on how to do it.

First you need:

Ebay SWIFT Aluminum Radiator
12" Slimline Fan
Fan Mounting Hardware
Longer bolts for the upper mounts
Some Electrical Butt Connectors & Shrink Tube
Drill & Files (Bastard & Rat Tail)
Mounting Spacers
Basic Tools
A couple hours, some beverage, tunes & some patience.

Total cost, around $150

Start by assessing your parts

Image

The zip tie mounts really suck, so get yourself some good
mounting hardware. Stainless is the best, so it doesn't look
crappy when it oxidizes & corrodes with age and exposure.
I used some long stainless screws, various assorted washers
(stainless, rubber for vibration absorb & fiber), and some
nylon locknuts.

Image

If you're mounting in an MK1, you will want to trim the lower screw mount
as it is not needed and sometimes interferes with the stock lower mount.
Slice it off with a hacksaw and file it flush.

Image

I have done this several times, and each time gets easier and I learn a new trick.
For best fit you will also need to hack off this piece on the lower part of the rad.
You may want to also trim the ears off the drain plug so it will clear the
lower swaybar mounting plate.

Image

Now that you have it all trimmed up, you can install the fan.
Center it on the rad and mark the location for the screws.
Use an awl to spread the fins so you can put the screws through.
I sandwiched the rubber washers between the stainless & fiber washers
with the fiber washers contacting the radiator surface.

Image

Now you want to adjust the lower mount in the engine bay and
file the edge of the headlamp assembly for best fit.

Image

Now you want to deal with the upper mounts.
You will have to drill new mounting holes in the rad mounts,
or elongate them with a rat tail file.

Image

Next you want to cut off the OE fan connector from the old fan
and splice it on the new fan. Be sure to make positive connections
and insulate & seal them with shrink tubing.

Image

Place the radiator on the lower mount and center for best fit.
Use the spacers for best fit using longer bolts on the upper rad mount
position. Spacers are required and necessary to set the radiator back
so there's plenty of clearance on the cap once you close the hood.

Image

Once it's all mounted up, then install the hoses & clamps, ensure the drain cock
is tight, replace the thermostat & gasket, fill with coolant, run the motor,
check for leaks & make sure the fan rotates the proper direction once it
reaches operating temp.

Image

:mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 4:18 pm 
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@ssclown

Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
Excellent How To, thanks.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 3:18 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
JamalSpelling wrote:

First you need:

Ebay SWIFT Aluminum Radiator



Exactly what search term do you enter on Ebay to find this radiator? If you use " swift radiator" you get a whole pile of radiators as a result, and most of them look identical and look identical to yours, but I'd like to know for sure I'm getting the same one you used because it presumably takes the least amount of modification to make it fit.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Like the topic says:

Swift aluminum radiator


There's about umpteen sellers that have them.
You have to sort through the OE style and then
match it up to the pics, the only main
difference I've noticed is some have the plastic
wing nut drain plug and some have the metal
drain cock.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
for what it's worth, i've bought and used 4 of the fabricated aluminum radiators in my mk2 and mk3 metros and swifts.

i prefer the plastic drain plug.

oh, and remove the cap they send along and use the oem radiator cap.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:54 pm 
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@ssclown

Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
JamalSpelling wrote:
Like the topic says:

Swift aluminum radiator


There's about umpteen sellers that have them.
You have to sort through the OE style and then
match it up to the pics, the only main
difference I've noticed is some have the plastic
wing nut drain plug and some have the metal
drain cock.


Thanks, most of my undriveable turbo and carbureted Mk1s are undriveable because the cylinder overheated and warped so I am very interested in installing these aluminum radiators in the ones I get back on the road.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:57 pm 
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@ssclown

Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
t3 ragtop wrote:
for what it's worth, i've bought and used 4 of the fabricated aluminum radiators in my mk2 and mk3 metros and swifts.



That's good to know before going to the time and expense of installing one because it sounds like they're well made and durable.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2011 4:11 pm
Posts: 318
Location: quebec
Is there an aluminum rad out there that doesn't need the mounting holes to be drilled or brackets to be bent? does someone sell one that is a direct bolt in that doesn't need shims and spacers? If you have some links it would be appreciated.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
I can supply the modified radiator, with mounted fan and necessary spacers.
All you have to do is splice in the wire for the fan and bend down the OE
lower mounting tab on the frame rail.

If there was a company that supplied a bolt in kit, we would all be buying them. :-P

You can buy a steel or plastic OE style radiator but the are generally only
single row and they are about the same price.

It is not a big deal to do this mod.
All you need is a bastard file, rat tail file, a hacksaw, drill and some
wire splices.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 6:24 pm
Posts: 43
Location: renton, wa
If you live in a cool/rainy area of the world I would recommend putting a piece of cardboard over say half of the surface area of the radiator. I have this same setup and my car during the winter months was not getting up to temperature, I was wondering why every time I filled up for gas my oil catch tank would be half full with water. Cardboard over 3/4 of the rad and 75% of the water is now gone.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:10 pm 
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Suzuki Elder
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
keech, that's a good idea for winter time operation.

it's also a testament to the efficiency, thermal emissivity, and thermal transfer of these radiators.

i've used these explicitly ever since i calculated the heat transfer needs of my blue monster turbo3 project. they are super on a twincam, too.

i've found that using the spal v2/3 pulse width modulated fan speed controller on a 1700 cfm 12" fan turns these radiators into magic. sustained highway speeds on a 98 degree day is no problem for one of these fabricated aluminum radiators.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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