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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 1:12 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 3:52 am
Posts: 1540
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
please forgive me, i am not very knowledge about them especially part numbers... but i do search a few on this forum...

my goal is rebuilding me mk2 g10t without very heavily modified... most interchangeable acceptable parts...

header
- performance header: i will order one from 3-tech i guess more than 400usd.. (i already pmed mike)

engine block:
- just clean block and crankshaft then re-use them
- use t3 piston... i think its okay to reuse it... unless its bad... where can i order new one? is it still available anywhere?
- new rings... where to order? ring specification?
- new bearings... where?
- underdrive pulley ... where to order the one? 80usd at http://www.pt2w.com/srd/index.php?main_ ... ucts_id=49 ?
- light the stock flywheel at the performance shop
- re balance the engine at the performance shop... i dont have tool...

did i forget anything?

thanks


edit:
does header package include gasket?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 7:36 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2003 1:12 pm
Posts: 250
Location: Carvel, AB,CA. -780-
i did mine a 9 years back so i'll only talk about a few things on your list.

i would have the block, crank and pistons inspected to be sure what size bearings you have for the crank and also if you have oversize pistons.

if the cylinder walls are in good shape and just require a light hone, i would also look at the pistons and have them Teflon coated on the skirts and then a ceramic coating on the crown. places like Top Gun Coating in Calgary do this on a regular basis and i have used them in the past for my Miata's engine. once you get them back, the cylinder walls can honed to fit the slightly larger piston skirts. (just be sure that they don't hone too much as your piston ring gaps will be affected)

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:12 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
there are a couple of different ways to go with pistons and bores. if your stock pistons are in good condition but the bores are bad you can install new bore liners to return to the factory bore spec. if your pistons are bad you can order a set of 75mm vitara pistons and bore the cylinders 40 thousandths to fit. you can order the vitara pistons with teflon pads already on the skirts.

a turbine tech exhaust manifold won't come with a gasket. you fellows up north can get the multiple layer steel gasket. that's what i use when i build an engine. down here i found the mls exhaust gasket under the beck-arnley brand.

you can check component weights on your bench with inexpensive digital scales. i "borrowed" the wife's kitchen scales to weigh rods and pistons to .1 gram. that goes a long way to getting the crankshaft assembly balanced. take material off the heavier parts to match their weights to the lighter parts. clarkdw has a nice "how to" post on balancing piston assemblies.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:54 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Quote:
did i forget anything?


You have barely scratched the surface.

The header is not a direct replacement, you will need to fabricate a downtube as well
and modify your exhaust. Most enthusiasts will not do this for the stock turbo alone,
the turbo is usually replaced with a larger unit and several modifications are required
as a result. If you have factory air conditioning, you may have to lose it to fit
a header. Headers also come bare, a decent ceramic coating will protect your investment
and also raise the price $150-200.00

Do not forget the rest of the drive train. You will want a fresh replacement clutch
that will handle the power transfer. It would be silly to rebuild the motor without
replacing the clutch. You're also going to refresh the cylinder head too, no?

There's a lot of seals that go unnoticed until you are knee deep in parts,
best to plan ahead. Crank, Cam, Valve Cover, Rear Seal, Oil Pump Seal,
Oil Pan, head gasket & bolt kit, timing belt & tensioner, alt. belts, clamps,
hoses, oil & filter, coolant & thermostat. Is your radiator up to par?
Distributor in good shape? Motor mounts?

T3 pistons are not available, but Vitara pistons will work. They usually come with rings
but will require you to bore the block. The pistons will change the compression ratio
as well, so you will have to alter the timing to get it running smooth.
You will also need a new set of thrust bearings. =)

There's a lot of member posts on this site about custom projects, if you take the time
to read some of the longer threads in full, you can gain a better understanding
of what's really involved in something as simple as just a standard rebuild.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:23 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
I think the header part of this thread is misunderstood. Fairly sure he's gonna get a 3tech head to bolt on. Easy, top end done.
If you're looking for a light rebuild with little mods, keep it simple. If its not blown up most all internal parts will be in good shape, they typically are. Remove pistons and rods and inspect, cranks are usually in excellent shape. Long as pistons aren't melted down, skirts have no cracks, just do a light hone, new rings, and rod bearings. New seals and gaskets top to bottom. Piston rings are the same for non turbo, so get NA rings in standard if you do a light rebuild.
I'm not suggesting this is the best, or your only option, but it is a tried and true economical solution. You will land up with a good running, reliable engine that won't burn oil. I've done hundreds this way. If you are comfortable with spending more, and want a better engine yet, then tear it right down and head to the machine shop. Boring with new pistons is better, but the bill adds up fast!

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Yeah, I think I misinterpreted.

I think he means head, not header.

Though I do recall the Turbo rings being different than N/A
something about the oil control ring and maybe the top ring being
more robust.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 11:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
If I were to guess, factory rings may have been different, but same dimensions so aftermarket rings work although maybe not quite as good. I have personally installed rings on maybe 6 mk1&2s with stock pistons and aftermarket rings and all seemed to work fine. Drive one for a few years after, another I did recently and it's got lots of kms on it already with no issues.
My goal when I did lots was to keep budget down, and save the cars so they didn't get parted/crushed. I was selling them for $1500-2000, hence my motive for not doing every engine to factory-new spec. I had to come up with a viable solution, so I tried reusing pistons with new rings and it worked well so i repeated. For the die hard enthusiast looking to keep car for ages etc, doing a 100% rebuild is much more feasible, as you as an owner will easily see the value in a full rebuild if you drive it for years.

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 11:50 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 3:52 am
Posts: 1540
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
thanks for posts... i will disassemble it then photo to show to make sure... ;]

t3, yep i read about homemade re-balance at clarkdw's thread... too bad pictures is down...

okay i will find gaskets then..

jamal, sorry i misspell it as header... i meant head... but thats good information.. ;]

you are right about seal, that i forget... but i know other than seal like waterpump, tensioner belt, etc... i will replace it

i did minor rebuild the tranny (bearing) and replace clutch a while ago.


cody i like your budget plan and yes machine the block will cost more... so not right now ;]

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