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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 10:53 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2008 10:37 am
Posts: 139
Location: Boring, Oregon
Since my timing belt broke and the water pump had a slow leak, figured now was the time
to do the seals too.
It is a very tight space to work in and removing the splash shield helps some.

Does anybody have any tricks on an easy way to get both bolts of their pulleys?

Would a dental pick be OK to use in removing the old seals or is there something better?

What kind of prep work would be recommended on the new seals and bores? grease/oil?
And is there a safe method on installing the new seals?

This is a first for me, so any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Doug


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 11:20 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2010 5:56 pm
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Location: Wahiawa, HI
Quote:
Does anybody have any tricks on an easy way to get both bolts of their pulleys?


If you hadn't figured it out yet, you pretty much have to loosen the passenger side motor mount and let the motor hang down until you can get the correct sockets and breaker bar in there. Loosen water pump nuts before you loosen the belt.

Quote:
Would a dental pick be OK to use in removing the old seals or is there something better?


Probably it will be fine, as long as you are especially careful not to scratch the seal bore with it.

It's not always easy to use in tight spaces, but I like these, sometimes known as a "moustache" seal puller:

Image

You still have to be careful not to scratch the bore, though and the dental pick might work as well in this instance, if you're careful.

Quote:
What kind of prep work would be recommended on the new seals and bores? grease/oil?
And is there a safe method on installing the new seals?


I use a tiny bit of ultra-grey RTV on the outside instead of grease. It helps the seal to slide in, but then helps it to stick in place once it's set, but grease would be ok too. The main thing is just to get the seal straight in the bore--I'm not sure what size giant socket you need to tap it in, but that's what I usually use if I need something, anything with an ID a little larger than the ID of the seal and an OD very close to the OD of the seal or even a bit larger, which will get you nice and flush with the block. A good seal will often go in just using your fingers, however.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 11:32 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:15 pm
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Location: Curacao, Netherlands Antilles
This is what I did to avoid dropping the engine
Attachment:
IMG-20131101-00397.jpg
IMG-20131101-00397.jpg [ 59.27 KIB | Viewed 983 times ]

Just cut the lip in 2 places and hammer that part upwards. This will allow you to insert an extension for the socket. I never dropped the engine again to remove the crank pulley...

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 7:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
It would be helpful to know what model you are working on.

If you use a pick to remove the seal, make sure it's angled
towards the crank in case you slip, the crank is hardened and difficult
to scratch, the bore however is aluminum and easy to damage.
And if you do the cam seals, the cam is much softer than the crank,
it is possible to damage the cam if you are not careful.


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