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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 5:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 3:07 pm
Posts: 60
Location: Elkridge, Maryland
Hey guys, back again. Went to go drive my sprint today after it had been sitting for 2 weeks and I seem to have a crank no start. The instrument cluster is not showing any lights with key on engine off and the fuel pump doesn't run. Didn't have any equipment to do any testing today so im at square one. Before I try in the dark does anyone have any ideas on where to start?

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1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
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Location: So Cal, USA
This is a total shot in the dark...

But if it were me, I'd start with the battery.













:huh:


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 7:50 am 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 3:07 pm
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Location: Elkridge, Maryland
I wish it were that easy...It cranks.... but doesnt start..... so the battery is obviously good. It cranks normal speed. Door chime works as well. Im thinking starting with main relay and ignition switch. Grounds have been checked and are ok looking but still could be the cause.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 2:45 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Sorry, misread your 1st post. Didn't see the part about it was cranking over.

So Key is on, Engine Off, yet no idiot lights illuminated on the instrument panel, correct?

And you don't hear the fuel pump come on momentarily when you turn the key on.

1st thing to check is the Main Fuse in the fusebox.

As you are facing sitting in the driver seat,
lower left............... IgnCoil/Meter 20Amp

This controls fuel pump and dash indicator lights.
The car will still crank if the fuse is pulled or blown.

Start there.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 3:07 pm
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Location: Elkridge, Maryland
Whelp, figured out what was wrong with the Sprint. After spending over an hour scanning a printed out wiring diagram because none of the fuses looked blown. Then taking apart the steering column to get to the ignition siwtch. I find that the main fuse is not blown, but was not sending power to the main relay. Swapped it with the heater fuse and everything came back alive.

Thanks for the reply! You were spot on with the first place to go. I checked the fuses before submitting the first post but didn't see any broken or burnt fuses. I guess there was a hairline crack in it somewhere or something because I could get the cluster to light up by applying slight pressure to the fuse. I don't know, just happy it was so easy. :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 9:31 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Yikes! I hate little gremlins like that.
Glad you got it sorted out, thanks for following up with the fix.

So I guess this makes a great case for checking the fuses
with a DVOM, to check for power in & out rather than pulling
them for visual inspection. They have the ends exposed like
that so you can test them with a probe while they're installed.
But then again how often do you get a bum fuse?
Hairline crack? or corrosion? Hopefully it was cracked, if you
think it was corrosion/oxidation then you want to clean it up
as bad contacts cause resistance and create heat which can
distort the fusebox itself or burn wire junctions. We've seen
plenty of that on this site.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 2:07 pm 
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Location: Elkridge, Maryland
Yeah definitely.

To be honest I didnt check too hard for corrosion as I was so happy the car was still running. I still have the fuse that caused the issue and meant to take it with me to work so I could ohm it and check if maybe one of the blades had been worn away. Ill be able to tell with a micrometer if I see a thinner blade on one side. Ill definitely make sure to check very thoroughly for corrosion when I go to drive the car again.

Ill update the thread again tomorrow with some measurements and pictures just to give everyone something to read :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 10:36 am 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 3:07 pm
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Location: Elkridge, Maryland
Sorry for the delay in updating. I brought the suspect fuse in to work and found absolutely nothing wrong with it. 0 ohms and the terminals were both .029 inches. It may have been corrosion build up in the fuse box but I am not near the car to be able to tell as of now. Im going to bring my terminal cleaning kit with me when I go to drive it next along with a tube of dielectric grease to try and avoid this happening again.

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