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 Post subject: ARP studs
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 12:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
seeing how i have had a hard time finding part #'s for stuff here. if anyone is looking for ARP head and main studs for there g10 the part #'s are as follows...


head studs 165-5401. this is a pack of 10 so you will have 2 left over.

main studs 201-5001. this is also a 10 pack and will also need part # 200-8689 washers.

but these should be easy to find at most high perf parts stores or on line for around $100/set.

hope this helps others that are looking.

_________________
92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


Last edited by redneck racing on Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 7:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Not worth the $ IMHO for the head stud kit.
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail ... cordID=654

You can get a set of the re-useable bolts from 3-tech for about 1/3 the cost.

Or if you're a good shopper you can get your own set of
3-1/2" long High Strength M10x1.5 Allen Head bolts, hardened
washers and a bottom tap for around $20-30 at most industrial
hardware outlets.

Attachment:
bolt.jpg
bolt.jpg [ 18.82 KIB | Viewed 3098 times ]


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2004 4:15 pm
Posts: 3130
Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
JamalSpelling wrote:
Not worth the $ IMHO for the head stud kit.
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail ... cordID=654

You can get a set of the re-useable bolts from 3-tech for about 1/3 the cost.

Or if you're a good shopper you can get your own set of
3-1/2" long High Strength M10x1.5 Allen Head bolts, hardened
washers and a bottom tap for around $20-30 at most industrial
hardware outlets.

Attachment:
bolt.jpg



$1/each at my local supplier :-D

_________________
93 Swift GT White 3Tech cams, Sandro's chip, Lightned flywheel, Genie exhaust, Cultus header, Intrax springs.
08 Civic Wife's car


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 6:36 am 
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Teamswift Racer
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Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:56 am
Posts: 2328
Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
redneck racing wrote:
seeing how i have had a hard time finding part #'s for stuff here. if anyone is looking for ARP head and main studs for there g10 the part #'s are as follows...


head studs 165-5401. this is a pack of 10 so you will have 2 left over.

main studs 201-5001. this is also a 10 pack and will also need part # 200-8689 washers.

but these should be easy to find at most high perf parts stores or on line for around $100/set.4

hope this helps others that are looking.


Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
that's fine if you want bolts. but if you want studs its the way to go. studs give a more accurate torque and hold stronger. you want to make big power you use studs. you don't see and drag car using bolts, there is a reason. and having been building 700 hp+ engines for 15 years you learn why very fast. Redneck Racing is not only my user name but also my company name.

_________________
92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 3:27 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
redneck racing wrote:
that's fine if you want bolts. but if you want studs its the way to go. studs give a more accurate torque and hold stronger. you want to make big power you use studs. you don't see and drag car using bolts, there is a reason. and having been building 700 hp+ engines for 15 years you learn why very fast. Redneck Racing is not only my user name but also my company name.



Absolutely. Studs and nuts are the way to go to hold a head on to a block. My Triumph Spitfire engine with twin SUs came from the Triumph Spitfire factory with studs and nuts holding the cast iron head onto the cast iron block. Thanks for posting this. Very cool to see you're into these awesome little three bangers and you have a shop and are local. If I brought you my '87 turbo sprint with a blown headgasket and a good used turbo engine with everything but the turbo still attached to it how much would you charge to swap in the good used engine and swap the turbo over? I have four '87 and '88 turbo MK1s with blown headgaskets and I have three good used turbo engines I need swapped into three of them. I've got a fifth complete turbo MK1 car that just needs minor crap and a sort of a possible sixth that's every turbo thing there is off of a sixth turbo car, plus a


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
It would not cost you much. They are easy to swap. The hard part is I'm on the island so your looking at $160 min round trip on the boat

_________________
92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:03 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
redneck racing wrote:
They are easy to swap. The hard part is I'm on the island so your looking at $160 min round trip on the boat


Ya, those ferry fares are harsh now. And it costs hundreds of dollars one way for a car being towed because I think they charge 10 bucks per foot for the tow truck and car. In the eighties it was 24 bucks one way to Vic for a car and driver, and cars were bigger and heavier then. I don't know why, but for some reason I had assumed you were in the lower mainland. Since I posted that I've had the good luck of reconnecting with a guy I know over here in the lower mainland who has worked for 30 years as Suzuki mechanic so when I scrape up some bucks I'm going to drag my cars over to him to get them fixed. Thanks for the info on the ARP studs, I'll try them out when I get around to replacing all the warped 3 cylinder heads.


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 5:30 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
redneck racing wrote:
I'm on the island


I just had a good idea. Maybe my dead engine cars needing an engine swap would be too expensive to tow over on the ferry but all of my blown headgasket turbos can be started and run for about five minutes 'til they heat up which would be long enough to get them from the Tswassen ferry terminal parking lot onto the Tswassen ferry or from the Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal parking lot onto the Horseshoe Bay ferry. I could weld up a tow bar and tow them to either ferry parking lot with one of my bigger vehicles. How far are you from the Schwartz Bay ferry terminal or the Departure Bay ferry terminal? One of my carbed blown headgasket Mk1s can also be started and run for five minutes. I could put the good used turbo engines and the good used carbed engine into the back of the respective vehicles and get them over to you that way.


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 5:45 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
JamalSpelling wrote:
you can get your own set of
3-1/2" long High Strength M10x1.5 Allen Head bolts

Attachment:
bolt.jpg


How high strength should they be? I guess since they're allen head bolts they wont have the metric style strength number embossed onto the head like metric hex head bolts do, but is there some other sort of marking or something on them to say what strength they are and how high strength do they have to be for the Suzuki 3 banger turbo head? I'm sure they're common as dirt and dirt cheap at any industrial supply retailer. And thanks for the tip, any cash saved on head bolts can be invested in other parts upgrades, although I still like the idea of securing a head with studs and nuts instead of bolts so hopefully I'll be fat with cash anddo it that way when I'm doing these heads.


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 7:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
It's still the cost of getting the car on the boat. Would almost be cheaper for me to come over there. But from my last expreance you should also put new rings in.


The bolts I got were grade 12.9 Allen head and hardened washers. I got mine from fastenal. The were $1.68 each and a few cents for the washers. After tax it was just over $12. And they are 10 mm X 1.5 X 100 mm long.

_________________
92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 2:34 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
redneck racing wrote:
It's still the cost of getting the car on the boat.


I'm going to find out exactly what that cost would be. I've been asking around for a few years for someone to do these swaps and still don't have any of them done yet. It's probably not too difficult a swap and I've removed/installed engines myself before but I've got my hands so full with other stuff I never seem to get around to doing these swaps. I still haven't finished the clutch job on my 94 Swift 4 door sedan that I started two and a half years ago. I'm impressed with your mechanical/electronic abilities in that you're swapping a turbo engine into what was originally a non turbo car.


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
when i built my little black monster mk2 turbo3 project engine i had head studs fabricated from 17-4 stainless steel rod, used 4mm thick 316 stainless alloy washers and flanged nuts. the 17-4 alloy has a tensile strength of 185,000 pounds, grade 8 sae or 12.9 metric have tensile strengths of 165,000 pounds.

i used stainless steel because i cannot stand to see rust ball fasteners on a custom build of any kind. =)

my design specs were based on a 21 psi boost pressure, studs for the improved clamping rating over bolts, and the higher tensile strength to decrease stretching. i also like the fact that you can bottom a stud in the holes on the block to take advantage of every bit of strength from the threaded aluminum (without the tedious indexing required to achieve that when using a bolt.)

i wrestled with the whole cut thread vs rolled thread idea and opted for the better thread engagement of the cut threads. a good machinist calculates and shoots for a 70% thread engagement but a really good machinist can cut threads that exceed 70% engagement. rolled threads as a process is better suited to mass production so you will find that the arp studs use that method.

i have been lucky enough in about 13 years to be able to communicate with quite a few turbo3 tweakers here at teamswift and long ago on turbohaven and i can honestly says that in almost every case i learned important things that i have folded into my turbo3 building repertoire. :wink:

if you care to look through some of my old threads you can find them in the blue hyperlinks at the bottoms of my posts. a bunch of the pics have been lost to server changes but the text is there. i have a blue monster turbo3 thread and a little black monster turbo3 thread which might give you some ideas. the little black monster turbo3 project got 75mm vitara pistons. both engines got distributor deletions, injector upgrades, crank trigger wheels, cam angles and crank angles read by externally conditioned hall effect device sensors to achieve multi-channel separate coil ignitions and true sequential fuel injection, adjustable cam gears, and many other little tricks.

i pulled up some old pics to give you an idea of the project engines. i had to upload some new ones as many of my old pics have gone missing from the server.
Image
Image

Image
Image

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
^^^^ I want.

_________________
92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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 Post subject: Re: ARP studs
PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 3:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:58 am
Posts: 756
Location: not here
@T3 awesome engines, thanks for posting the pics and info. thanks too for all the info about head studs.

@ Redneck Racing, I talked to the guy I know over here in the lower mainland who has 30 years experience as a Suzuki mechanic and, just like you pointed out, the ferry fares are cost prohibitive because the price he quoted for his labour to do the whole swap isn't much more than what you said ferry fares would be. So I'll drag one of the cars and a good spare engine over to his place once I weld up a towbar and get the bucks together to pay him and put a permit on the vehicles and a new radiator, belts, hoses, etc.
What I'm really interested in doing is putting a G13b into a Mark1 and turbocharging it but first off I just want to get all 17 or whatever it is of my Sprints, Forsas, Fireflies, Swifts, Geos and Metros running in their basic stock configuration so I can periodically drive them and prevent them from rust welding themselves into junk.


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