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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:39 am 
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Ok. So I was getting ready to clean and oil my distributor before setting the timing which another member so graciously gave me instructions on.
I have previously replaced the vacuume advance unit and every thing looked good at that time. Well I didn't look close enough as the pickup magnet was cracked and it ran all the way through the magnet.
I have a parts distributor I disassembled to get the plate with the magnet. The bearing retainer ring had jumped so I had to realign the bearings. With the ring clamped in place I slowly heated it with a heat gun and it layed down perfect. Getting ready to install it and noticed one of the advance springs was stretched for lack of a better term.
So what springs do I need to purchase?
I've upgraded the turbo with a K03 and was wondering if different springs are in order?
The resistance of these engines amazes me. Just about everything you can attach to a engine was out of spec or broken and it still ran acceptable.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:39 am 
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:43 am 
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 11:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
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Location: So Cal, USA
Send it to Fainya, he can rebuild it like new.
Or if you're like me and want to do it your self it's not that
hard. If you dissasemble it, you can spec the seal and bearings
with a mic and order replacements easy on Ebay, be sure to
get a quality bearing at least class 3.
GM advance springs are aplenty, they usually come in 2 sets
per pack, and will do the job.
You will need to drill the rivet out on the drive flange and
find a suitable replacement.
Again, Fainya can supply a new drive flange made of tool
grade steel instead of the OE double folded sheet metal
which rumour has can fail. Though I seriously think the
only reason they fail is if the distributor seizes up, the
cam rotation takes them out.
You have to rig up a special puller to get the bearing off the shaft,
but that's easy enough if you're talented.
I use synthetic grease to repack the advance bearing, careful not
to loose your balls. The other hard part is separating the
2 shafts if they've seized together. I bit of Silikroil in the
center overnight and a rigged puller will do the job.
Be sure to re grease during assembly, as well as the
advance mechanism. Best of luck or send it out and do
it the EZ way. If it were me, I'd send out my spare,
get it back, make sure it works then try rebuilding the
other one yourself if you have the inkling. Oh yeah, I had
a tough time finding a suitable rivet.
Shit yeah these babies take a beating and can run forever
barring catastrophic failure.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 3:59 am 
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I'm definitely a do it myself kind of guy right down to making my own tools when ever I can.
I ordered some chevy springs that will be here tomorrow. I've disassembled both distributors and cleaned everything up. The shaft bearings feel good and smooth on both distributors.
I just oiled the advance plate bearings but will clean them off and use synthetic grease as recommended. Do I understand correctly I should grease the advance weights pivot pins as well ?
When I first got this buggy in Nov it had a misfire. No big deal most of the time it turns out to be something simple. Following the recommendations found exclusively on this site I started going through and testing and replacing items. Below is a list of all the items that were broken or out of spec.
Fuel filter(element came loose from the housing fuel wasn't being filtered)
Fuel pump
Fuel injectors
TPS
Ignition coil
O2 sensor
Spark plug wires
CTS switch
Adjusted valves (#2 exhaust was .02 over in clearance)
Vacuume advance unit
Turbo it's self
And now the distributor.
All of these items tested bad or out of spec and it still ran acceptable. Every part replaced would show a slight improvement in the misfire.
It should be noted before I did anything I did a compression test and leak down test to make sure I had a good starting base. Compression was high 170's on all three.
I feel like I almost got it now.
By my count it has had 4 or 5 owners. Everyone drove it but no one maintained it. If I didn't enjoy doing this stuff I may have gone crazy.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 4:23 am 
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Almost forgot thermostat housing had no provision for a thermostat ( I fabricated one so now it has a thermostat) so it always ran cool which didn't help the rich condition caused by the TCS,O2 sensor,leaking injectors ect. Also the cooling fan was direct wired for constant operation. Once i installed the thermostat the miss was considerably worse but still fun to drive. Running cool I belive offset the lean condition from the vacuume leak and kept the engine from imploding. I also machined down the face of the starter housing as it was only contacting about 50% of the fly wheel.
Also did the little things. New seals. Timing belt and tensioner,timing cover blah blah blah.
I'm hoping to find another engine I can rebuild just to have ready.
This list doesn't include non engine issues. New steering boots ball joints ect. Rebuilt both the drive and driven clutches blah blah blah.
I tend to ramble on some times.
Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:12 am 
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Went ahead and removed the shaft bearing and seal gonna see if I can find some locally today. Just couldn't do half a job. Had to do it right.
To remove the pin I used a grinding wheel and a light touch than tapped it out.
The bearing I worked slowly with a chisel. Emphasize the word slowly.
In the past I've used hardened steel punches to make heavy duty pins out of. Simply tap it in. Cut it and flair both ends. Any reason I can't do that in this situation?
Thanks Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 9:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
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Location: So Cal, USA
See your mech advance pins and slots look good.
The last one I did was frozen in the fully advanced position,
the pins were extremely worn and the slots as well.
I did grease em to prevent further wear, but keep in mind
the centrifugal force will want to deposit that grease on
the inside walls of the distributor. When it's dissasembled
it's pretty obvious by any wear marks where you may
choose to lubricate.
So yeah, one note on these motors they do not tolerate
any vacuum leaks. Like when it's idling and you pull
the oil dipstick, it should pretty much die out and stall.
That said, you definately do not want to vent the V/C (no breather),
pay attention to V/C gasket and grommets, injector seals,
dipstick tube o ring, intake manifold gaskets and bolts pretty
much all the things you probably wouldn't normally consider when
you look for a vacuum leak.
Look past the throttle plate and see how gummed up the
intake manifold is, if it's been neglected you could have up
to 1/2" of crud on the walls. Seeing as how the crankcase fumes
are not only sucked through the PCV valve, but run through
the intake tube as well, through the I/C and down the throat.
And I'll mention since I think you're using the OE MAF that the
connection from the box, turbo,I/C, to the throttle body needs to
be 100% leak free. And MAF should be as close as possible to
turbo, and intake tubing run should be short as possible.
They don't fuel good if the air has to run a long way after
passing the vane in the MAF box, even cutting as much as
12 inches out the the run can make a big difference.
Looks like a fun buggy!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 11:15 am 
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So my pins and the slots both look good no wear. I do have a question about the two plates that come out with the shaft. Should they move slightly or not at all? On one the plates that come out with the shaft has some movement and on the other distributor it has none.
Never considered the valve cover grommets. Are these something that are available or could I just hit them with some silicone? When I purchased it there was a very thin bead of silicone in place of the v/c gasket. One of the first things I replaced. I noticed the grommets were stiff.

The MAF is about 2" further from the turbo than it was stock. I may be able to cut about 6" off that length if it will make a difference. It would add those 6" to the air filter run. From the turbo I have about 16" before the I/C and about 32" to the intake after the I/C. When I first got it there was no intercooler hooked up. Strait from the turbo to the intake. Now then I have considered moving the intercooler to on top of the motor for shorter pipe runs which would eliminate approximately 12" after the turbo but place it in the path of the radiator. Where it is now there's a scoop feeding it cool air. Ideally I want the fastest spool I can get out of the K03 not looking to make huge boost. From what I have read I should be able to do 8lbs OK as long as I monitor the A/F ratio.
Every time I take it out it's more fun than the last because it keeps running better and better. . And that's thanks to the info I have gotten here.
I can't say how much I appreciate you're insight and information.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 11:23 am 
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Thinking about it and I could mount the MAF 2" off the turbo with the filter connecting right to it. I would need to extend the MAF harness but I enjoy soldering.
I'd appreciate you thoughts on this
Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 2:47 pm 
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Carquest will have the bearing and seal for me tomorrow. Feel like I got raped at 29.00$ for both but didn't want to wait for them. Will order the bearing and seal for my other distributor on Ebay though.
Don't mind spending money but hate feeling like I'm getting screwed.

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