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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 4:52 am 
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This post is a step by step procedure for rebuilding a 87 sprint turbo distributor.
I have never attempted to post anything like this before but will give it a try.
Some of my pictures didn't turn out so I went back and took some pics after the fact.
The tools I used for the rebuild were
Bench mounted vice
Bench grinder
Phillips screw driver
Several steel punches
Dremel tool with a diamond rotary blade
Seal puller
Hammer
Ratchet extension
A blunt chisel
A sharp chisel

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 5:05 am 
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First thing was to disassemble everything.
First I removed the vacuume advance. There's two Phillips screws attaching it to the distributor as well as a E clip securing it to the advance plate. You will want to attach a hose to each port and suck on it to make sure you're vacuume advance unit is good. You do not want it to pull any air through either port.
If it sucks air you will need to replace it or have it rebuilt.
Next I removed the trigger disc from the top of the shaft. It's the star looking thing which triggers the ignition. I worked it with a screw driver and once it moved I was able to get a wrench under it and use a socket as a punch to tap the shaft through.
Next I removed the screw that holds the top section of the distributor to the shaft. It's a Phillips screw. Mine came apart easy but if youres is stuck some penetrating oil over night will loosen it up
Next was the module which is held in place by two Phillips screws.
You will see two Phillips screws inside the housing which secure the advance plate bearing.
You're pile of parts should be growing now so be sure to keep everything together.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 5:32 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 5:52 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 5:54 am 
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At this point I'd clean up and inspect everything u just took apart. I found mine to have a cracked magnet and the large advance plate bearings had shifted.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 5:54 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 5:56 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:01 am 
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I used a fine tip screwdriver to move the bearings into place. There's a yellow plastic ring on the top of the bearing which holds the bearings in place. They have to be spaced properly for the ring to snap in.
My ring had lifted in a few places and I used a heat gun on low setting to soften it up enough to lay flat and I clamped it as it cooled. I greased the bearing with flex cable grease used to lube remote control boats. It is water proof and sling resistant. Which means more of it will stay where you put it. Any good grease will work though.
As far as the cracked magnet I was fortunate enough to have another dist I could pull it from.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:03 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:09 am 
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Now we focus on the dist drive tab. It is held in place with a steel pin and you will need to gring,drill of file off one side of the pin so u can punch it through. I used a bench grinder and a light touch to remove just enough to allow it to come out. You could also drill it out or use a hand file. Careful not to loose the little metal tab inside of the drive tab.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:10 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:11 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:15 am 
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Now when u look in the distributor u will see two Phillips screws in the bottom. These secure the bearing retainer plate. Remove them.
One of mine stripped and I used a chisel to knock the head off. At least there a soft metal.
Now were ready to remove the shaft.
With the distributor clamped in the vice lightly tap the shaft end and it should work its way out. You will need to use a small socket or something similar to finish knocking the shaft out of the housing.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:23 am 
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URL=http://s722.photobucket.com/user/Floridaedd/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps0bxghl6f.jpg.html]Image[/URL]

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:32 am 
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Time to remove the bearing.
I opened the vice just enough to support both ends of the shaft assembly and placed a small piece of wood under the smaller end to support the shaft level.
This next step you will need to take you're time and only use light taps. You do not want to bend the shaft at all.
Use a large chisel with a shallow point. Too much angle on the chisel end and you could make contact with the shaft. Don't want to do that.
Start working the chisel around the bearing a little at a time. You have to work it off evenly or you will just cock the bearing on there. Once the bearing moves to where the chisel won't work any more flip the shaft on end and work the bearing directly with the chisel.
It took me about 15 minutes.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:37 am 
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URL=http://s722.photobucket.com/user/Floridaedd/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsuuflpfq7.jpg.html]Image[/URL]

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:38 am 
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This was after I removed the bearing just to give you an idea of where to chisel

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:56 am 
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Let's move on the the weights. There held on by E clips which can be poped off with a small screw driver. I like to keep a finger on the to keep them from flying across the garage.
Now remove the plastic spring retainer caps and remove the springs and weights.
At some point one of my advance springs broke and someone stretched it to make it work.
Well I was getting no advance due to the tight spring.
Now we want to inspect the pins on the advance plate. The pins that the weights sit on had just a tad of wear nothing that would cause issues. However the small pin the spring attaches to had a grove about 1/3 of the way through the pins.
These pins are just held in by friction so the fit has to be perfect.
I happen to have a machinist pin set which has basically every size pin there is. They are hardened stainless steel. The pin is a .099. I cheated and cut two replacement pins from the pin.
They are available on ebay for about 10$.
So after knocking out the damaged pins I tapped in the replacement and cut it to length with a Dremel with diamond blade. Pic was taken before I filed the end smooth.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:57 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 7:00 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 7:01 am 
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http://s722.photobucket.com/user/Florid ... 5.jpg.html]Image[/URL]

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 7:12 am 
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This brings us to springs. I ordered a chevy spring kit from Pep Boys last week. They said I would have them the next day. Well after 7 days of waiting I started going through the garage and came across a box of springs. One spring was the right length and had the same wire diameter however the coils were smaller but there were more of them.
I drove a nail in to a piece of wood and put one end of the spring over it and the other end of the spring I attached to a push/pull force meter. I pulled both springs the same distance and found they both have the same force. Of course I only had one spring but I belive I have found a suitable replacement for the springs and once they arrive and I test the force I will post the results.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 7:17 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 7:27 am 
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Time to clean up the dist housing. You need to pull the seal out. I used a seal puller but a hooked pick would work also. I knocked off the big chunks of grime and sand blasted the housing. I did it on light pressure as I didn't want to remove any material just the grime. Carb cleaner and a brush will do it also.
Both of my distributors had grooves worn into the inside of the housing from being run with broken springs. One dist actually has two small holes where it wore all the way through. It will be my back up distributor so I will just use a dab of silicone to plug them.
Let's talk about bearings and seals for a minute. I had carquest get them for me at a cost of 30$
I purchased the set for my second distributor on ebay for 11$ total. They are the exact same ones car quest got me.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 7:31 am 
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http://s722.photobucket.com/user/Florid ... 4.jpg.html]Image[/URL]

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