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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 10:28 am 
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So the spring feels a little stiff. Can I gradually remove coils from the spring to soften it up. Or heat the spring to soften it( back in The day that was the way to lower car front ends before custom coil springs)
Worst case is I have to buy a new one which I would have to do anyway. So my question is which method would you try? Or neither but than why.
Thanks Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 10:44 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Set it to the loosest setting.
Put a vacuum pump/gauge on it and apply vacuum
until the piston begins to move.

Note the reading and use the converter
to calculate inch of Mercury to PSI
http://www.convertunits.com/from/in+Hg/to/psi
and that should give you a baseline setting for
what you have it set at.
Not sure if that's scientifically correct, but that's the method I used
for initial setup.

Bottom line is you will most likely tweak the setting once
it's installed, and you want it tight enough where it doesn't
open prematurely, but positively activates between each
shift. Wait a minute.... you have an auto tranny, so I guess
when you let off the throttle after reaching a predetermined
boost pressure.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 11:38 am 
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Ok. I used a scale to measure the pressure at which it opens. Lowest setting is about 8lbs. Highest is just under 15lbs. I set it at 12lbs to start with as I'm gonna shoot for 10lbs boost. I'm gonna set the waste gate 10lbs. Now do I have the waste gate start to actuate at 10lbs? Of fully open at 10lbs?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 12:07 pm 
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The Turbo produces boost, the wastegate setting determines how much
boost by bleeding of the exhaust that is spinning the turbo.

The more the wastegate moves or opens, means you are venting some
exhaust which would normally drive the turbine wheel and spin the
turbo to create boost.

In the case of the OE turbo, the wastegate is not mechanically adjustable,
so to increase boost we install a boost controller which bleeds off the pressure
created by the compressor wheel which actuates the diaphram and moves the
lever to open the wastegate. So if you bleed off the pressure, the wastegate
opens less allowing more exhaust to drive the turbine creating more boost.

If your aftermarket turbo has an adjustable arm on wastegate, adjusting the
arm length will determine how much the wastegate opens and how much
boost you will produce and would be the mechanical method of setting
up how much boost the turbo will make. Adding an electronic boost controller
will give you precise control over boost settings and offer additional
control of pressures & spoolup from the cockpit as well as reduce pressure spikes.
A manual boost control valve requires a mechanical adustment of the
valve in the engine compartment and is usually added to increase boost
on a turbo that does not have a mechanically adjustable wastegate.

So you pretty much have to drive it and use your boost gauge to determine
the how much your turbo is producing under real conditions, and then
adjust your adjustable wastegate arm length to reduce or increase boost.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 4:39 pm 
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I have a small low pressure hand operated air pump used for setting up jet ski carburators. I hooked it up to the waste gate on my KO3 turbo and have the valve start opening at 10psi for a starting point.
I've seen some of you're posts on the electronic boost controllers and one is definitely on my list of must haves. As of now I just have a gauge with an adjustable inline pressure switch hooked up to an indicator light to alert me to too much boost. I have it set at 12psi but can adjust it to any desired pressure.
I must say Jamal you have hung in there with me from the beginning of this latest venture and I do appreciate it. I feel like I now have a good base starting point for boost now and enough basic knowledge to at least have an understanding of how to make changes and what changes effect which part of the system. I appreciate you're patience with me and taking the time to walk me through it.
Now that I have it all cleaned up I'm happy with the BOV and will start making a mount for it as well as tap into the turbo feed line as close to the turbo as I can and shooting in the direction of the turbo.
At least it's fully adjustable so if full recirculating is too much I can bleed some off if need be.
Thank you so much.
Edd

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 8:41 am 
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Just finished welding up my turbo feed tube for the recirculating BOV. I mostly use stainless wire for welding and near the end I ran out of gas so I got some splattering.i used tubing the same size as the BOV discharge line.
I cleaned up the insides with a hand held air grinder as I went so there is a smooth flow to inside. I have not cleaned up the external welds yet but will look ok when I'm done. I'm no welder,I know it so no need to tell me.
I'm chugging along slowly but surely.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 8:43 am 
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Image

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 8:32 pm 
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Location: brooklyn
you need to clean the chrome before welding it will spark and short the flame, also you need to put more voltage, and let the flame develop, welding actually starts after 1.5 second, and this looks like you did 1.5 second tacks and stopped. Good job never less right about how mine looks in the first 5 month of practicing.......bottom line clean the chrome and hoooold it bit longer, but don't burn a hole.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:07 am 
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Thank you I guenely appreciate the advice. I get criticism about it but no advice. I'm self taught and never seem to do enough at once to get much better. And that's exactly how I do it on thin stuff. I'd just daisy chain little tac welds.im not proud of it but its true. It seems with the stainless wire it burns brighter as I have a hard time seeing the weld as I go. I have a Lincolin auto dimming helmet and may need to get a different insert for it?
Thank you Edd

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 2:07 pm 
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Took the buggy out for the first time yesterday since my rebuild and it did great.
I couldn't even tell the blowoff valve was there. I had it set to recycling not atmosphere and noticed no ill effects. I had some other issues I was working on so I didn't have a chance to try it venting to atmosphere. My boost was maxing out at about 7 psi which I felt was enough to put on my engine since it was first run after being rebuilt.
Being a fresh rebuild I babied it as you should ,,,,for about 300 yards. Then I beat on it for 4 hours.
Next time I will have the little things fixed and be able to spend more time actually playing with the BOV and let you guys know how it goes.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:37 am 
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So I had my wastegate set to 10psi. And blow off valve set at 5psi( not intentional )
I operated it in this condition for a few hard hours with everything over 5lbs being pumped back in the the engine before I corrected it and noticed no ill effects. No oil leaks,blown seals ect.
I'm getting up to 8lbs before I run out of road. And believe me it is almost scary fast. I'm not new to speed in an off road vehicle but it is insane. Now I need to tune the clutch to the power and I should pick up more oomph.
Edd

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 5:23 am 
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I've been running the system closed and just noticed a little oil leak from the center section of the turbo. I have the BOV set to 10psi and my waste gate keeps me at 7psi boost. I assumed it was a loose line but it is coming from the upper section where the center meets the exhaust side. As there should be no oil up that high I'm guessing the extra pressure in the engine from recirculating boost was keeping the oil from draining back or was spiking the pressure so it was getting more than it could drain.
I've set the BOV to atmosphere and will see how that works out and my adjust it to recirculate some boost but not all. My BOV seems to open when I let off the throttle even when I'm not in the boost so I may need to raise the BOV pressure. I've only just done this and have not had a chance to tinker with it much yet.
As of now my suggestion if you want to recirculate boost get a convertible BOV Incase you run into the same issues.
I will keep you guys informed.
Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 3:27 am 
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Update.
Ran the valve recirculating and atmosphere 50/50 and was getting on it good when I noticed oil was seeping from everywhere,seals,valve cover,distributed ect.
I've now set it to just vent to atmosphere and all is good again.
In my opinion it's a waste of time recirculating and my blow you're seals out.
Edd

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 11:40 pm 
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Yup, just what I've been saying all along.
1st Gen G10T not meant for recirculataing BOV.
Told ya so! Ha!
Ed, thanks for confirming.


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