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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 9:57 am 
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My cam shaft arrived today. I'm a happy camper. It looks great and I'm so happy Mike made the time to do it for me.
About to start putting everything back togather and have a few basic questions
Thread lock on the rocker shaft screws?
Assembly lube the head bolt threads to get accurate torque readings?
Torque to 46 to 50 lbs ? This is what the new felpro bolts say to torque to.
Just adjust valves to stock clearances? All valves are new.
Which gaskets on the top end do I use silacone on? Intake? Water pump ect
I'm so close I can taste it but this is the point I have to slow myself down to keep from making a stupid mistake

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 10:22 am 
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 6:25 pm 
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Opened a bag that came from the machine shop with my intake studs head centering sleeves intake centering sleeves. But I don't know where these two go.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 6:28 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 10:17 pm 
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Those likely go in two rubber grommets that hold a grey tin cover in place that bolts to the head. It's a bit hard to describe, but if you look at parts for the head you should see it and it will make sense. The plate bolts on before you put cam pulley on and also holds the top of the timing cover in place with two small bolts I think.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:36 am 
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That has to be them. For the life of me I don't know why they would of been with the head when I took it to the machine shop but there not with the cover plate so it has to be them. Just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something.
Thank you Edd

Anyone have some help on the other questions? I know they seem basic but I need to know.
Thanks Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:18 am 
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intake wont need silicone, but a little bit on the water pump gasket (both sides) wont hurt...those tiny nuts/bolts are only 6-8 ft lbs....and anti-seize on the threads, steel and aluminum tend to fuse together after awhile.

not to familiar with the other mk1 torque values/procedures....all my stuff is mk 2 (hydraulic lifters)
I only have 1 mk 1 engine, given to me in numerous pieces in boxes....
but I think you got the camshaft :-P mike needed one, I had one so I sent one his way!

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89 1.0 turbo firefly
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:46 am 
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Thank you for the information it will allow me to get started. I figured none on the intake but I've come too far to mess up now so I just wanted to be sure. I sent in my camshaft but once there ground there all the same. I could very well have yours. I'll give it a good home.
Thanks again Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 10:45 am 
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Location: walsh,alberta,canada
blue Loctite on those little rocker shaft screws.
set valve lash to stock specs, don't be surprised if they need re-adjusting after a few miles/ hours....too tight, no compression..(valves wont close)too loose, valves wont open to bleed compression (exhaust), or let any air in (intake)
head bolts, usually dry...maybe a light coat of engine oil. lubed threads have different torque readings than dry threads.
my 1990 fsm calls for ''lubed head bolts, 54 ft lbs'' that's mk 2 values, mk 1 may be different?

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89 1.0 turbo firefly
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 11:33 am 
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FloridaEdd wrote:
Image

.
.
The large one is a head alignment dowle should be two. The little ones are for the front Cam belt cover one for the middle stud and another (2) goes upper or lower on cover you see the ones were the bolt go through the cover were these fit are larger
.
What size lump stick did you get there.?
.
also there right about the wear on the rocker adjustment stud they wear more with an agressive cam
some peeps swap them out for the larger "Honda" studs
.
also it goes without saying that head gasket surface must be clean and dry (can't stress that enough)
any dirt,oil,silly-cone,will lead to premature failure.!
No lube on HB Torq twice Final to 50lb (Because reuse)
these are stretch type Head bolt.
you can use them more than once...... but check them throughly if reused
and through out any one that might be questionable
.
.
.
Image

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 4:18 pm 
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The cam is a 226/395. I can't seem to find the other head alignment pin( translation the machine shop lost it) can I get one locally do ya think?
Some issues came up with my truck so I have to fix it before I can start finishing this up. Isn't that how it works out. I feel like I'm going 20 directions.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:48 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Quote:
Thread lock on the rocker shaft screws?


Threadlock, swedge, or punch...whatever works to keep them from coming loose,
or this will happen.

Image

I had upgraded them to stainless, so it was particularly difficult to retreive this non magnetic
screw from the oil drain passage.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 9:09 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Quote:
Assembly lube the head bolt threads to get accurate torque readings?
Torque to 46 to 50 lbs ? This is what the new felpro bolts say to torque to.
Just adjust valves to stock clearances? All valves are new.


I've been told to install them dry, but usually use a very light coat of motor oil.
This should help things move along..

Image

The OE style bolts are great, and will last a long time. But they are considered single use.
I usually upgrade to reuseable ones.

Image

It is important to run a bottom tap in the block threads and thoroughly clean out any debris/chips.

Image

I think I dunked my 'Mikes' cam in either engine oil or Moreys oil stabilizer before installing,
then adjusted valves to spec. and then re checked after a few hundred miles.
Morey's is hard to find now, seems Lucas has dominated the market, but Morey's is still available direct.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 9:43 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Looks like you found where the mystery inserts go.
Now is a good time to evaluate the grommets and replace them
if they are brittle to eliminate any rattles. That plate also has the timing
mark on it, so if the grommets are toast, your timing marks can be off as well.

Image

As far as the head locaters go, you definately need 2 of them. They're crucial for head and head gasket
alignment.

Image

If you don't have them you can just mic the tubing, and make your own. Be sure to chamfer the ends.
Here's some I made for the intake manifold..

Image

Don't forget the new ring on the water tube. This receiver was so bad, I had to run a quick brake hone and
a slightly thicker o-ring to prevent leaks.

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 10:41 pm 
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Jamal. As usual u come through for me. I was waiting for you to give me you're 2cents. I will replace the grommets and yes I bought new felpro head bolts. Now that you mention it I recall seeing you're post with the pic of the screw in the oil hole. That post is what made me ask the question as I recalled it.
I have not thought of tap cleaning the bolt holes. I used small brushes and compressed air to clean them out but will run an end tap down them.
I will make a head locating pin as you suggested.
I lightly sanded the opening on the back of the water pump to clean it up. Nothing major and plan on silaconeing it along with the O ring as that is how it was when I took it apart.
Hope to at least find time to assemble the head tomorrow. Any progress is progress.
Edd

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 7:20 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:27 pm
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Location: walsh,alberta,canada
thank -you Jamal for providing the correct info! my knowledge is limited, at best, on the mk 1 engines, :oops:
great pictures as well!
I use LUBRIPLATE on all contacting surfaces, then add a bottle of LUCAS ENGINE BREAK-IN OIL ADDITIVE TB ZINC-PLUS.

_________________
89 1.0 turbo firefly
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 7:16 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2014 5:39 pm
Posts: 426
Location: United States
I got the head assembled yesterday. I used blue loctite on the rocker shaft retainer screws and a few light taps with a hand held impact just to give them a little extra snugness.
I coated everything with some assembly lube prior to installation.
I was wondering if I could adjust the rockers prior to installing the head?
I'm still chugging away at my daily driver trying to find a fuel leak. I've pulled a ton of shit off the engine but I'm still looking. It's a Duramax Deisel so it is like a jig saw puzzle. Nothing is hard to do just have to move a ton of shit to see or do anything. If I don't get it today into the shop it goes tomorrow. From past experiences I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump leaking. Last time it cost me close to 2k to have it replaced so I'm doing what I can.
Thanks All. Edd

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