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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:20 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2014 5:39 pm
Posts: 423
Location: United States
I'm getting there slowly but surely. Head and block are installed. Intake manifold and injectors are installed as is the water pump,starter,exhaust manifold and distributer.
I torqued the head bolts in three stages 30-40-50 after chasing the threads. I will retorque the head bolts tomorrow as was previously suggested.
I should have it ready to run by Saturday as there are still a lot of loose ends I will need to finish up.
So I'm here looking for oil type for break in and any special break in procedures I should follow. I have always tried to vary operating RPMS and never beat on a rebuild right away but I'm sure there are more precise accepted methods to follow.
Thank you Edd

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:36 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Chiming in again...
If it were me, I would wait till you have a few hours/miles on it and adjust
the valve lash and head bolt torque then, it will probably cost you a valve cover
gasket depending how anal you are. BTW, if you haven't replaced the grommets,
I would recommend doing so, and I'm sure you have thoroughly cleaned the
valve cover and mesh filter and checked for obstructions, mainly in the way
of sludge buildup in the v/c vent passages.
Definitely fill us in on how the recirculating BOV performs, I'm curious
if it's any benefit for you, it just created problems for me, but I was
venting 15psi and in the OE configuration it just ended up backing up
into the crankase/valve cover and blowing oil past the oil filler cap.

Since these motors were designed to run on Dinosaur oil, I usually use a
non-synthetic oil (which is usually less expensive ) to break them in
and flush out the motor, then drain it in 500-1000 miles and put
in synthetic. The main reason I switched to synthetic oil back in the
day, was to prolong the turbo life. Switching to synthetic oil on an OE
setup after several years, usually just resulted in more external leaks.

Well, scientifically produced oil did have it's benefits, as I got several
hundred thousand miles out of those little turbos and milked them
for even more, but bottom line is regular maintenance is the key.
Cars nowadays have 15K mile oil change interval, and the only reason
they don't want you to do the ole 3 month, 3,000 interval is that changing
the oil too soon can damage the catalytic converter prematurely. It's all about emissions
nowadays.. that and new oil is much more robust and does not break down
like old oil.

So at this point, I've come to the realization it doesn't much matter.
Fill it with oil, run it a bit to get all the bits out, drive it moderately
to break it in, do your follow up adjustments, keep up on any maintenance
and hope for the best. You will definately get back the luv you put in.

So I'll leave you with these 2 bits,
I did regular maintenance on a tranny, and switched to synthetic oil
5w/30 say about 5 years into the life of the car, and this car being a
daily driver to this day, has never had the tranny opened up, shifts
fine and has been a workhorse it's whole life 28 years. Yeah it's got
some little leaks, but if you read the forums these trannies go out
with synchro issues in 1st and 2nd common problem, because
they were never serviced on a regular basis. This tranny has
700,00 miles on it!
2nd bit is I replaced a sprint turbo motor at 175k because I
over revved it and developed a knock. So same car as OE
tranny, 500k on new block, several head rebuilds and other
head issues (cracked valves) but same block got 500k on it
running synthetic, only thing that took out the block was
valve metal fatigue dropped a valve in the piston and took out the
piston and head.

Other than mechanical failure the only thing you can do to
damage the motor is to not do regular maintenance.
Don't overthink this, break it in gently and do your proper
maintenance, these motors respond well to proper care.


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