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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 2:23 pm 
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Ok tried to start it and found a fuel leak. Fixed it. Tried again and noticed it was pouring oil from the exhaust side of the oil pump. Long story short I put the wron gasket on it. Changed the gasket and tried again. Hard to start and had to hold the throttle open to start it. Had two spark plug wires crossed fixed them and it fired right off.
now I'm getting a knocking type of noise from the timing cover it sounds like to me but I don't know.
I have a short video I will post the link to below.
I'm feeling really frustrated and defeated. Any insight would be appreciated.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 2:34 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 4:26 pm 
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This is the first time something actually worked out for me. My tensioner was rubbing on my timing cover so I put two washers between the center stud on the timing cover and the cover itself.
Two washers were too many and it allowed the timing cover and water pump pulley to make contact.
Starts right up and sounds good now that a groov has been worked into the cover.
I'm getting some popping out the exhaust. Not extreme. I'm assuming it's due to valve overlap with this extreme cam. I have another video of it running now if you guys could take a few minutes and tell me what you think I'd appreciate it. I'll post it below
Also around what timing should I go for with this cam? Advance it a little or retard it a little?
I went from frustrated to joyous in a matter of 15 minutes.
Thanks All,, The fact it's soo good is a tribute to you guys. With out you I could not have gotten this far and hope all of you realize how much I have appreciated sharing all of you're combined knowledge with me.
ALL OF YOU ROCK
Edd

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 5:09 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 7:44 pm 
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Wasn't able to view the video.

If anything, a little more timing with that cam. Definitely not less. Just have to be careful because of the boost.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:41 pm 
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I'll have to go in and load it again and see if that fixes it was having a hard time to get it to go.
I appreciate the timing advice. Gives me an Idea where to start. Waiting on a new rear hub bearing before I can take it for a test drive,, can't wait.
Thanks Edd

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:36 pm 
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Yup, no vids.

The timing covers get warped, and typically oil soaks in the seal
and causes it to swell, forcing it outward as the bolts loosen over time.
Since oil flows down from gravity, that's why the bottom of the covers
always have the bottom area around the crank pulley worn through.

They're on special right now on Ebay for about $20, which is about
half of what I paid a year ago. Careful though the 16v ones do not fit
and you have to order the right one, some of the sellers have the
pic mixed up. You want the 635-702 by Dorman.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 11:16 pm 
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can't view the Video
can you post to you tube .?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSE3oPKNUZg


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 5:53 am 
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I've tried to upload a different video but it keeps failing. I have a YouTube account but always have issues loading to it. I think it may be because my internet is Verizon wifi. I live off the beaten path and have yet to get high speed internet out here. Been here 20 years and don't think it's coming anytime soon. There are about 10 houses on my 5 mile stretch of road and it's not worth there while for that few accounts. I have even offered to pay for the cost of running the cable two miles to my house but they won't do it.

A friend of mine loads my YouTube videos for me and will get him to do a couple of the buggy running today. Sorry about that I know it can be frustrating and will get on It.
I can text it to anyone just shoot me a text if you like. 850 567 990four
My original timing cover was trash when I got the buggy and replaced it but I will go to eBay and get another while they are on sale. The damage on this one was my fault. One less washer and I would of been ok.
Sorry for the issues.
Edd

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 9:33 am 
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Ok. Got them on YouTube. Gonna try to post a link from my phone. May have to do it when I get home but I'll try. Had to break it up. The first video is stone cold just started. The second is halfway to heated up and the third is fully heated up with the fan kicking on. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TORCrSq1EBE

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 9:34 am 
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8MYXTjCZ0Y

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 9:35 am 
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ra4ujY-dpqk

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 9:36 am 
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Ok. I think they work. From start up to fan coming on was 20 minutes.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 10:13 am 
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stuff your other cam back in see if it still make the noise


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 5:33 pm 
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The engine it's self is quiet now. No knocks or funny noises. MY curiosity is the idle just want to make sure it sounds right. Seems a little rough but I'm assuming that's valve over lap.
Not sure if you can hear it in one of the parts of the video I posted but periodically it will seem to cut off for a second and catch again. This is the original issue I've been chasing from day one. Was positive my bad valve was causing it but apparently not.
There are only a few things I have not replaced or checked out. Tha Mass air meter. The knock sensor/ knock box. And the fuel pressure regulator.
The plug into the mass air meter has the boot sealed with silacone so I need to take a look at it.
The bottom of my knock control box gets HOT in about 15 minutes of idleing
There is no difference in idle when I unhook the vacuume to the fuel regulator.
If you were me what would you check first?
Gonna take it out Saturday and give it a good shake down. I'll have a friend with me so I hope to get some good video of it for you guys.
Edd

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 7:18 pm 
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:-P sounds like my mk 2 turbo w/ cam 8) my t3 pulls hard, a little lumpy at idle :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 7:47 pm 
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Thank you it's reassuring to hear that. I think it sounds good but I have nothing to compaired it to.
Thanks Edd

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 2:19 am 
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I heard it to me that sound really good....
you can check the fuel regulator by
unplugging the vacuum hose on the end of the fuel rail
the knock sensor would not do that
if your running the stock MAF box pop the top look in there your flapper spring might be a tad weak at idle
.what gap and plugs are you running.?
.

.I'm leaning towards dirty injectors
.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 6:52 am 
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Fuel injectors were the first thing I thought of in my quest to correct it.
Let me give you a quick run down of everything I checked and replaced trying to get rid of the stumble.
Fuel pump
Fuel injectors new not reman( got them at rock auto on close out for about 50$ each)with all new seals, Original injectors leaked.
Fuel filter
Spark plugs. Originally installed the ngk power plugs but saw on this forum to use standard so I changed them. The gaps I set to factory specs.
Spark plug wires. One had a lot of resistance.
Distributor cap and rotor
Rebuilt the distributor
Ohm checked the coil and tried a new one just to be sure.
O2 sensor was out of spec and I replaced it with new
Temp control switch tested bad so I replaced it.
TPS tested bad so I replaced it.

Every time i found something bad or out of spec I thought for sure I found the issue.

The stumble is totally random but happens mostly when the engine is warm. this makes me think running rich. It smells rich. I wish I had my wide band repaired as it would let me know a little more of what's going on in there however after just rebuilding the engine I'm strapped for $$ for this project.
How should it act when I unhook the vacuume line from the fuel regulator?
Although maybe not the issue should the knock box get that hot that quick?
I'm definitely on the down hill side of this now just a little more to go.
Thank you Edd

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:10 am 
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Out there looking at stuff and just realized the mass air meter is sitting on a slight angle. The output side is sitting lower than the air intake side. Seems like this would make the flap open easier.
Could it be that easy?
Edd

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:17 am 
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Yes. The MAF is notorious for not liking anything but the stock location. :lol:

Might be able to solve it by tweaking the spring to help with how easily the flapper opens.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 8:11 am 
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I will go and level the mass air meter this afternoon and see what happens. Is it safe to mess with the spring without a wide band? Last thing I want is to lean it out too much.
Like everything else in this project the mass air is forign to me but I'm not scared because I know you guys are the best.
Thanks Edd

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 10:12 am 
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If you think it's running rich at idle and you've got the MAF relatively level, it won't hurt to tighten up the spring a few clicks to maybe take up some of the slack/weakness the 25-ish year old spring has developed. Mark the original position so you have some reference and if you need to go back to "stock". Sounds like you know what an engine should sound like, but I presume you at least have a narrow-band AF gauge installed: keep an eye on the ratio when you're approaching WOT the first couple of times just to be careful.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 9:27 am 
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Turns out my distributer rotor post was loose. I had to add a washer to get it to tighten up but now my idle is perfect. Since I purchased it 10months ago it has never had an idle I liked. Either had a misfire,a stumble,a hiccup or a burp.
Still smells rich but I'd rather have it rich instead of lean. Once I get my wideband working again I will start to fine tune it.
Thanks again guys.
Edd

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 9:49 pm 
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thanks for the update ...did you get a wide ban set up.?


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