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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 4:08 pm 
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So driving down the freeway the other day the Sprint started surging pulled over and it immediately died. Steam was coming out the tailpipe just did a compression check and sure enough the compression was 110-25-110 so my guess is head gasket. Looking at the engine it seems like to change the headgasket pulling the engine is the best way. Any advice from anyone who's done a head gasket? I just rebuilt this engine 40k miles ago. Hoping it's not acracked block. Thanks in advance.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:17 pm 
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Said screw it and started pulling the motor.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:56 pm 
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It's an easy job with the motor in the car. Probably 4 hrs taking your time, but you might have a burnt valve with those numbers.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:33 pm 
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^^^^^^ what he said
.
this is why I get on my soap box and yell Make sure the head gasket is clean and dry
chances are you put lube/oil on head bolt when rebuilding your motor the gasket didn't get to set dry
also you must retorq the headbolt after a few heat/cool cycles


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 7:45 pm 
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Thanks for the responses, I had decided not to pull the motor and instead started pulling the head. Almost got it off, when I get some more free time (hopefully this week) I'll get it finished.

Block and head were clean and dry when I rebuilt the engine. I also had both surfaces ground so I know they were flat. I think the issue was a bad radiator cap not holding pressure. I had been driving around for probably a week with very little coolant in the engine, didn't realize it until I was on my way back through the desert on a 3 hour trip when the temp gauge started rising. It had been so cool out, the damn engine was running fine air cooled. That was over the winter, and ever since it's been losing a bit of coolant. I've had to top it off once a week or so. Sigh. Replaced the radiator cap when I did the rebuild too, so it shouldn't have crapped out that quickly.

Ah well, at least they're easy to work on. Only tricky part is going to be getting the timing set right with the belt shoved against the side of the engine bay, and the AC and everything else in the way.

Thanks for your input all. :D

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 1:13 am 
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x2 the question about timing the car without timing belt cover- how to mark 12deg? Sometimes i feel like a wiz, and sometimes like a total noob in reference to simple techniques!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 11:26 am 
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You should mark the belt and the pulleys when you take it off, and put the belt back on lining up the marks you made when you took it off. Turn the engine over by hand a couple times to make sure the marks line back up after a rotation or two. Then adjust the timing as you normally would by clocking the distributor. It's just tricky because there isn't much room there to work.

When I rebuilt the engine, I used a paint marker to paint the notches on the timing belt cover and the notch on the crank pulley white. It makes it very easy to see under a timing light, which is helpful considering it's hard to see down there.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:02 am 
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I did this on my old car with it in the bay...I miss it sometimes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfJ0ExZAUP4


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 12:58 pm 
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It's already done and back on the road, running good as new. :mrgreen:

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