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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 6:37 am 
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So I'm making a air filter canister to protect my filter from the hot radiator air. The canister will house the air filter and pull fresh cool air from the inside of the buggy and the intake will be placed where it gets fed from a roof air scoop.
I currently have a reducer hose on the maf which allows the 3 1/4" filter to attach. This hose is about 5" long with a 90 degree bend and at the bend it goes up to 3 1/4" and attaches to the filter.
Question 1. Is there anything to be gained by going 3 1/4 right up to the maf?
I can hear Jamal telling me stop over thinking things but I have to ask any way.
Question 2. Since air will be forced into the canister should I have a couple of holes in the bottom of it to allow air to continuely flow through it which I'm thinking will help keep the air and canister cool? Seems logical to me but I never know ,, my logic is off sometimes I'm learning.
I'm currently fabricating it and any input would be appreciated.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 10:09 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
#1 I would say no, you are restricted by the size of the opening on the VAF. (Variable Airflow Meter)
I bet the only reason you have a reducer is to be able to attach to the size air filter opening.
Your reducer should be gradual and smooth flowing, if it were me I would probably try to lose
the 90* and go with a sweeping bend and make sure the adaptor that transitions and bolts
on the the VAF matches the squarish opening as much as possible to reduce any turbulence.

#2 You would want some sort of small hole in the bottom to drain any moisture that
might accumulate. If you're trying to prevent sucking the radiator heat, then the airbox
should probably be insulated or else it would just be a big heat sink and you would
just be creating more problems.

I would think the airflow when you're moving would be enough. If you're standing
still, then what does it matter if you suck up a little radiator heat. You're just
adding wore weight which will slow you down. Why not just mount the airbox
in an Igloo cooler, then you can pack it with ice and run your fuel lines through
it. :mrgreen: (joking)

You want some serious advice? Look past that and see if you can find a more
efficient intercooler and put on a boost activated water/alcohol injection system.
You will get a much better return on your investment. :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 11:06 am 
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Ok. There is no way around me having a 90 degree bend. Yes I will have a drain hole. I will be insulating the canister from heat. It's costing me nothing but my time and some welding wire. My thinking is if I can ingest 90 degree air instead of 180 degree air it would drop my air temp going in to the engine. I could add a larger intercooler but that would take money I need for more important things at this time as well as adding length to my intake track. However if I added one later it would drop it even more. The other positive thing to me is the filter will be totally protected from the elements (think of a log ride at an amusement park and that's how much water gets thrown up when I hit a body of water) and by pulling air from the cockpit it will have less dust in it. An air filter canister is a common mod for dune buggies but run close to 200$ for a nice one not including filter.
My thinking is a few 2" holes in the base will allow the air to be constantly moving through it and not giving it time to build up heat as it will be getting more air than needed.
Hope I explained it good enough
Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:09 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:09 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:22 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:25 am 
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The top and bottom are stainless steel and the center section is aluminum. It is completely insulated on the inside and has heat reflecting material on the surfaces that face the radiator.
I know this doesn't apply to any of you guys but couldent resist showing it to ya.
Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:41 am 
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Hey that looks pretty good.
Not at all what I imagined, amazing what a picture does for clarification.

How much does it weigh over previous setup?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 9:18 am 
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Thank you.
Pictures do help a lot.
The previous set up was a stainless buffet pot with holes punched in the back side of it and I feel it didn't provide enough room around the filter as well as being heat soaked from the radiator. It weighed nothing.
I would guess this one is about 4 to 5lbs. I used a thicker stainless for the base for rigidity but drilled 4 3" holes in the bottom to cut some of the weight. These holes are sealed by the internal insulation and I punched a 1/2" hole in it to drain and moisture.
I could have made it lighter by using aluminum for the top and horn but I can't weld aluminum and felt rivets would not be as sturdy.
The top of the canister has a 1/4" aluminum plate under it to add strength to the top section.

For the record this is the first time I've worked with steel like this. I do have a sheet metal roller and this was the first project I used it on. I bought it a few months ago to resell and the wife was bugging my to sell it so it helped I found a project to use it on. Helps me justify keeping it in her eyes. I even rolled and welded the tube that the filter and intake hose connect to.
Now just to find somewhere in the garage for it.
Gonna pick up a cheap temp monitor with wired probe to just see what the temps are inside.

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