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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 10:45 am 
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So I just installed my new used tps and it idles a lot better however I noticed when I first start the engine it idles smooth for 15 seconds and than it acts like it is bogged down from a load on it. I can repeat this consistently over and over.
I'm thinking that's about how long it takes the alternator to kick in.
Aside from the engine management system the only other constant load is a blower motor to cool my clutch. An electric fan kicks on once it warms up only as needed.
So am I on the right track?
Thanks Edd

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 12:21 pm 
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The blower fan is on a manual switch and not turned on untill needed so it is putting no load on the engine when I'm testing.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 11:04 am 
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Just took my alternator in to get tested and it's good. So now I'm trying to think of what could take 15 seconds to "kick in" that would cause rough running. I'm open to any suggestions.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 3:17 pm 
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So reading through the forum I came across a post reguarding bad grounds causing trouble.
I decided to check mine and found someone had crudely soldered 3 ground wires to one lead and all had corrosion.
I tied the two smaller wires togather to a single wire and the larger one I used a dedicated wire for.
I than soldered both into a copper battery cable end.
I don't have my alternator back yet to see if it's any better but it sure can't hurt anything and I'm sure it would have been an issue sooner or later.
I'll post a pic below.
Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 3:20 pm 
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 6:28 pm 
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Are you running the OE cold start injector?
Does the problem clear up once the engine has
reached operating temp?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 7:36 pm 
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I'm not running a cold start injector. It's there but the harness is removed. I wonder if it could be leaking? I Hadent considered that. Guess I could pull the banjo bolt and weld it shut just to be sure.
When it's cold it just idles rough from the git go. After it has warmed up and I restart it it purrs like a kitten for 15 seconds than idles the way I'm used to rough.
If it didn't purr for those 15 seconds I'd just think the rough idle was the way it was suppository be with the cam.
The wife just got home with my alternator so I will put it in first thing tomorrow and see if my ground wires made any difference. I'm sure it's something simple it's just a matter of me narrowing it down.
I'll check and test anything you suggest.
Thanks Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:16 pm 
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This may be a good time for another video. 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 8:27 am 
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I will get a video but will take me a while to get it loaded as I have to get a friend of mine to do it for me as my internet is too slow and of course he's working today.
Started it up this morning and got surging like I had at part throttle before the tps change. I adjusted the tps just a tad and it stopped.
After that it warmed up as usual.
The rough running I'm describing is accompanied by muffled popping misfire backfire type sound in the exhaust,seems to be all cylinders by the sound of the popping. All sound in sync if u know what I mean but every now and then one pops out of sync and the engine may stumble if idling real low.
It has done that since the beginning and I assumed it was valve overlap due to the cam and short exhaust.
The only time it doesn't do it is when restarted and that lasts 15 seconds.
Swapped the coil just to check and it's not that. I'm leaning towards a fueling issue but that's just a guess. To me it seems like it's rich but that could be un burned fuel if it were a ignition issue.
It runs and drives just fine but than again this is the only way I've ever known it.

I had an issue before and a member suggested the MAF which I never got to would that be a place to start?
I will get a video up as soon as I can. I can text it to anyone who would like me to. Just let me know.
Thanks guys I appreciate it
Edd

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 8:29 am 
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Due to my air filter canister I'm able to restrict air intake and it made no difference in the popping. Idle dropped a little when closing off air intake for what it's worth.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 7:16 pm 
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Ok. Took it out today and I obviously have an injector issue. Several times the fuel pump would keep cycling trying to pressurize the system which tells me at least one injector is leaking. So there's not much sense doing anything until I get them straitened out. I appreciate the help so far but all I'm doing until I get the injectors fixed up is wasting you're guys time,and I don't want to do that.
Thanks all
Edd

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 7:33 pm 
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You're not wasting anyone's time. This is a good diagnostic thread for someone who might have the same problem as you down the road. Good job and good luck. :D


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 11:59 pm 
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FloridaEdd wrote:
Ok. Took it out today and I obviously have an injector issue. Several times the fuel pump would keep cycling trying to pressurize the system which tells me at least one injector is leaking. So there's not much sense doing anything until I get them straitened out. I appreciate the help so far but all I'm doing until I get the injectors fixed up is wasting you're guys time,and I don't want to do that.
Thanks all
Edd

.
I for one like to read your post. Interesting to say the least.
I think reading your post While you going through the Trouble shooting progress
Might save some one time whom has similar issues
Please "Keep wasting our time"
.
I'm in jv&s
.
.
.

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 5:02 am 
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Thanks for the words of support guys.
Just to catch everyone up I will mention one more time I did this to myself while installing a different fuel filter system and lines. I cleaned everything as best I could but installed a back up filter right before the fuel rail to catch any crap I may have missed. This filter was not a high pressure filter and blew apart the internals allowing crap into my fuel rail.
I knew there was an issue when my fuel pump kept cycling trying to pressurize the system. I pulled the injectors last week and cleaned misc crap out of the screens. Thought that took care of that but not so fast.
I have 3 sets of injectors. 2 sets of Oem and one set of unknown brand injectors which were new not reman and have about 22 hours on them. There the ones currently installed.
So now I'm weighing my options

Option one is send all 3 sets in and see what I end up with. I've seen prices for cleaning and testing around 15$ an injector.

Option two. Send in my Oem injectors and attempt to back flush the newer ones.
My thoughts for back flushing are an air compressor set to the pressure the injectors would see when installed. I would attach a section of fuel hose to the output end of the injector. I would fill the hose with carb cleaner or fuel and pressurize it with the compressor while triggering the injector. (I'm open to criticism and or suggestions on this idea).

Option three is buy 3 new injectors if I can still get them for cheap. I found them on close out for 45$ each.

I'm also gonna pull the plugs and see if there are any signs of fouling or preignition because while I was out riding yesterday I had stopped for a few minutes and switched the key on to see if the pump excessively cycled and one cylinder popped off. Just a poof when the leaking injector introduced gas into the hot engine. Now I do not believe it should have been hot enough to do that unless I have excessive combustion chamber temps but I don't know. Being a new rebuild I'd like to not melt it down.


On a side note I found the ( brains ) for my dynojet wide band for 100$. After a week for it to get to me I realized it did not have the harness to go to my screen. My old one had it but I was so pissed dynojet couldent fix my old unit I told them to just throw the shit away. Dyno jet was kind enough to send me a new cable and didn't even charge me shipping. While I was waiting for it I welded in a new bung for the O2 sensor (due to shortening my exhaust)and plugged it. I still don't know why but the plug seized in the bung. I had to cut / drill and chisel it to get it out. Now my threads we're screwed up. So I cut the end off of the bung on my old exhaust and welded it to it. After 2 weeks I get it all hooked up and to Long story short my LCD screen was fried from when I originally fried the rest of my unit. I could have just SCREEMED, The screen is 250$ but there's one on eBay that's at 100$ I may try to buy.
It's a juggling act for me as far as money goes.
I'm gonna ride this horse till it drops I can't stop now.
Thanks again Edd

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 6:59 am 
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So new close out injectors are now 32.79 each.
If back flushing mine is not in popular opinion with you guys I will just get 3 new ones. ( I'd rather use that money to fix my wideband) The best price I could find for cleaning was around 20$ each so seems crazy to not get new.
These are the same injectors I have now and they did fine until I put the Edd touch on them.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:28 am 
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So I'm leaning toward pulling the injectors and back flushing them ( only with approval from you guys)Cleaning the fuel rail inside and out and flushing the fuel line.
If I go that way I'd need advice on pressure to use to flush them.
Volts to use to trigger the injector
And what ohms I should be looking for( I'm sure this is in the manual and will try to find it there but thought I'd ask any way)
And how to take out the screens.
I'd like to check the fuel pressure regulator while I'm at it but I have no fuel pressure gauge at this time.
In the mean time I can use the money I would use for injectors to try to get that screen on eBay for my wideband. Should my home flushing not work I can always buy new injectors at that time. When I space them out a week or so purchases don't hurt me. Like I said I'm really trying to juggle this. It's rainy here today so I may not get started for a day or two.
Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 4:46 am 
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So I pulled my fuel rail and injectors yesterday. There was crap built up around the fuel pressure regulator. The crap was actually dirt that had collected to itself. Put it in my hand and broke it up and it turned into a pile of dust.
I was careful to not dump the fuel out of the injectors so I could see what came out. Number one injector closest to the fuel regulator had two large chunks of crap in them.
I should mention now that when I first purchased the buggy the filter element was bouncing around in the filter housing. I immedietly replaced it but it seems it may of had this crap built up in it already.
I disassembled the rail and cleaned everything with a brush and soap and hot water. I then blew everything dry and cleaned everything with carb cleaner and a brush before blow drying it again.
I used a small air pump to back flush the injectors and make sure they were not leaking. I did this many times on each injector.
I reinstalled everything using dialectic grease on the electrical connections. At this point I noticed the plug for injector one was missing the rubber seal that sits in it. I had another harness I pulled one from. After assembly I flushed a few gallons of fuel through the fuel line just to get any crap out of it that I could,but I'm going to replace the fuel line just to be safe.
I have not run it yet but will once the line is replaced.
This may not fix my issue but if I end up getting new injectors they will have a clean environment this time. Gonna post a few pics below for ya.
Edd

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Last edited by FloridaEdd on Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 4:49 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 4:52 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 4:56 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 4:58 am 
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:29 am 
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Got it all assembled and of course I left the key on for three days and totally killed the battery. So I got a brand new battery and gave it a try. Idles a lot better ( not as rich ) and when I first turn the key I can hear fuel returning to the tank which I only heard sometimes before.
My theory is all the crap kept clogging the injectors and the fuel pressure reg was not operating properly causing a spike in fuel pressure causing the rich condition.
New injectors are most likely in the near future but may clean up a little with running it.
Thanks guys
Edd

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