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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:43 am 
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I feel like I've beaten this horse to death but just bear with me.
As you may recall I had timing issues. Running real advanced.
I thought my vacuume advance springs were still a little too long. So after dealing with my fuel issues this morning I pulled the dist and cut two sections off of my vacuume advance springs.
Now before I did this I checked my timing to see if it made a difference and it did not.
I'll post two pics below.
The first is with my dist turned all the way counter clock wise. With advance hoses pinched shut.
The second pic is where I personally feel it runs best.
Now what?
One tooth off on the timing belt?
Before the rebuild I was able to run at 12 degrees advanced.
I am truly sorry to be posting on this again but I feel like I'm getting close.
Many thanks Edd

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:49 am 
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:50 am 
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:52 am 
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The line scratched on the balancer is to high light the timing mark. It's a brown scratch.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 11:27 am 
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Turning the crank one tooth clockwise seems like it would do it. wouldent that move my timing mark to the right( less advanced)? I just don't know anymore.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 12:29 pm 
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Top dead center is on 2 degrees advance. Just checked it.
The timing cover is aftermarket I believe. I replaced it when I bought the buggy. But I was able to run 12 degrees with this cover prior to rebuilding the engine and installing performance cam.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 1:08 am 
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The pic is an old cap I have but is the same as what's on there. And believe it or not my number one plug wire is at 11 o'clock. The post marked 3 is my number one.
No shit it's was like that when I got it and I always assumed the cap also fit other applications.
How can this be and what do I do now?

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Last edited by FloridaEdd on Mon Oct 05, 2015 5:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 5:45 am 
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You know I had this same issue many months ago. I even posted about the issue on here and ended up moving the timing belt one tooth ( after consultations with a board member)which is when I was able to set it at 12 degrees. I marked the dist location and always used that mark to set it. After rebuilding my dist I changed the timing belt and didn't feel like it was quite right one tooth off so I switched it back to where it was. I've used that scribed mark to set it ever since.
Long story short it has been like this since I have owned it.
I'm guessing if I reclocked the dist and correct the wires that should do it ?

Edd

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 7:27 am 
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Top dead center

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:42 am 
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Fixed the wires and reclocked the distributer and now I may get a lazy pop depending on the dist position but nowhere near starting.
I'm out of ideas.
Edd

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:55 am 
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This is where my timing mark is when the dist tab is pointing to number one cap post.
Timing belt has to be the issue correct? I'm so confused now.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:55 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 10:32 am 
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What if I just left it set up with number one at 11 o clock the firing order is the same and apparently the top and lower end are set to it? Yeah I'm half being lazy but if the only side effect is a timing mark that's off I can live with that until I tear into it next time. But if not I'd like to know.
If I'm missing something please let know I could really use some guidance on this one.
Edd

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 11:05 am 
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Lazy isn't me. Pulling the timing cover too see what's going on.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 11:18 am 
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With the timing belt marks lined up its putting my dist rotor tab at 11 o'clock. Aghhh. Image

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 3:55 pm 
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So here is what I know. My distributer is clocked correct. Jamal was kind enough to help me verify that. At top dead center my distributer is pointing at 11 o'clock and I see no way to make it point to 2 o'clock at top dead center no matter what I do
. With my timing belt marks lined up and the timing belt removed the engine spins freely with no compression on any cylinders.
Cylinder one gets compression when the camshaft timing mark is pointing at the ground.
My manual shows number one spark plug at 11 o'clock, should I disregard the numbering on the cap?
Holding on by a string here
Edd

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 12:54 am 
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Let's try a different tack, as one sailor said to another...

We'll direct your attention to page #8, figure 5 at this link:

http://mityvac.com/user_manuals/07000-06820.pdf

I'd sit down with an ice cold beer on a hot day and read the entire manual. You'd be amazed at what you've forgotten over the years.

Feel free to post a video of your vacuum readings at warm idle for all to see.
Oh, and do this before you move anything.
Then, if you start changing settings, take a vacuum reading at warm idle and see how it compares.
Of course, correctly label that video and put it in your thread.

Next time you're 'out of ideas' or 'hanging by a thread', go back to your basic internal combustion engine knowledge:
-compression at the various timing belt settings
-vacuum at warm idle paying close attention to the vacuum needle
-spark: correct and timed?
-fuel: (in your case) correct pressure?
These are elementary settings to get you in the ball park.

Once you graduate, you can put a sniffer in it or wide band and stay tuned, ha ha ha.
Don't think that a vacuum tester is only for antique engines, or too expensive for your tool box.
And don't think that just because you are working on a highly modified piece of metal that we can't contribute solid information.

You start posting videos of your complaints and we'll have a better idea of what and why your engine is missing.

So far, you've presented quite a few great photos and videos.
I distinctly remember the one which showed your 'problematic' idle several months back.
Now, you've changed camshafts and other components, as I recall.
Certainly you don't expect it to behave like a stock engine, right?

Bottom line? You've gone as far as you can go without attaching diagnostic equipment to help that mind of yours.
The days of 'I think it's this' or 'It might be that' are over.
That's why we have plenty of machines to tell you exactly what that engine is doing.

Put a vacuum gauge on that mutha!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 5:32 am 
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Or like one sailor said to the other " I can stand hardships" that was my dads favorite.

Ok. Deep breath has been taken. Hot coffee has been introduced,mindset has been rest.

I do have a vacuume gage installed and it Sits at about 13psi until it warms up at which point it is at 15psi. It fluctuates somewhat.
Before the rebuild I was getting a solid 20psi.
The difference I attributed to the cam and or the rings still needing to set. ( but that's a guess)
I agree totally about instruments And my need for more of them. Fuel pressure (should I go for fuel feed line or fuel rail pressure? I don't use the cold start injector and was thinking I could tap that line for a fuel pressure gauge) and wideband being number one. My tac died so I can add that to the list as well.
I will get a video editing program so I can post my own videos instead of having to rely on someone else's schedule to do it for me.


My focus for today starting as soon as the sun comes up is to put everything back as it was including re clocking my dist for number one wire on the cap to be at 11 o'clock.
My timing belt was stretched as was evident by the fact my tensioner plate moves all the way down on the lock bolt. It usually locks in the middle of the plate. I have a new belt to install.
I may try moving the belt one tooth and see how it feels since it's about a 15 minute job to get to it
on my set up.

I appreciate the manual for the pressure pump. I have that exact one and it died a few years ago but after looking at the diagram of it I think I may be able to fix it with some new seals.

I feel like a kid who runs around crazy until he is put in a time out. You put me in time out and I definitely needed it. I prefer time out to a belt.
Thank you.
Edd

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 10:36 am 
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Silicone grease or plain kitchen vegetable oil. No need for new O-rings.
(Read the manual.)

Your reported vacuum reading of 15 indicates (fill in the blanks)?
Best to rehabilitate that Mighty Vac and check intake vacuum directly.
The sweep of the needle is important, according to the M A N U A L.

With more lift and duration the engine might breathe better and actually have MORE vacuum after a correct high performance cam install?


There was a pilot who didn't believe his instruments.
Perhaps you know the rest of the story. :dunno:


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 10:44 am 
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Lower vacuum is to be expected from a cam with longer duration and lift. Source: I had a very similar cam. Vacuum went down about 5inHg at idle.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 12:40 pm 
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I read through it and saw the vegetable oil but assumed as it was 15 years old the o rings were most likely dry rotted but I will try it before I take it apart.
The vacuume gauge I have is hooked up directly to the In take and run into the cockpit area with about 4' of hose. I do have another old school mechanics vacuume gauge which I can use directly on it. I have used it In The past until I got one installed inside.
I posted a question a few weeks ago trying to find out what my vacuume should be with the cam but got no responses. In the past I've had huge cams in Chevy 350 engines and it robbed the engine of vacuume.

I reclocked my distributer to its original position this morning and installed the new timing belt. I aligned the marks as they were so perfect I didn't feel moving the belt a tooth was necessary.
Got it reassembled and Now I can't get it to start.
On top dead center the rotor is facing away from the number one plug wire on the compression stroke( when you feel the compression at the timing mark"
I thought I may have the lower end off so I rotated it and reinstalled the belt. Now I don't think the lower end matters as long as the mark is lined up but did it any way.
I've been sitting here reading through my Chilton and Haynes manuals looking for a clue but gave myself a headache so here I am. I really didn't want to have to ask but I do.

It ran before I messed with the dist and changed the timing belt. I did nothing else to it.
What am I missing?
Edd

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 3:31 pm 
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I verified spark with the timing light while cranking it.
The wife is going to pick me up some starting fluid I believe the issue is fuel. I verified the fuel pump is getting power while cranking with a volt meter and I can see the fuel moving through the filter.
I have a small fuse block which holds 4 fuses and they are good. I can feel the relay next to it clicking
But the one to the lower right I don't feel anything.
How do I go about diagnosing this?
I'll post a pic below

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 3:34 pm 
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 3:58 pm 
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So using my manual I identified the two relays. One is the fuel pump relay and the other is the epi main relay. The fuel pump relay was causing the pump to cycle over and over with the key on. I switched them just to verify that was the issue. Only ran it a few minutes like that before I started on my timing.
Common sense says that is it but I will see.
Asked the wife to see if she could get 2 new ones at discount on her way home.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 6:03 pm 
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New relay made no difference.
I spliced a injector pigtail in to the injector harness and attached it to an old injector and I could feel it clicking when attempting to start. A soft click but it clicked.
I pinched the fuel return line to see if my fuel pressure reg was hung up but that made no difference.
I sprayed starting fluid into a vacuume line(the large one on the rear of the throttle body)and it popped a few times. Didn't try to start just popped.
I checked the fuel tank just to make sure I had gas even though I could hear and see it flowing.
All I did was pull the dist and reclocked it and changed the timing belt ,when cranking it over the timing light shows one is firing and firing at the correct place on the balancer. I just feel at the end of my rope I don't know what else to check.
Getting dark outside so I'm done for the night. Now to sit here and dwell on it.
Edd

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