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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:27 pm
Posts: 46
Location: Gibsons BC Canada
Hi All,
I just rescued a '90 Turbo Sprint from being sent to the crusher. It has been sitting outside on the West Coast for almost 10 years and those years have not been kind. It is (was) covered in green stuff and interior is quite moldy, but if you look beyond that, it could be a diamond in the rough. Well, possibly not a diamond, perhaps an agate, and heavy on the rough. There is some rust, but not as bad as my '91 beater which is still cheerfully transporting me around with over 320,000km on the clock.

After having to fix a rotted high pressure fuel line at the tank I was able to get the engine started quite easily and it idles and runs at no load quite nicely. I took it for a bit of a spin up and down the previous owners long driveway to check the brakes, which seemed to be good, so I put some plates and insurance on it and drove it home, (only about 2km). It quickly became apparent that all was not right in it's world, as power is way down and the poor little critter had all it could do to climb the hill up to our place in first gear. My '91 can scamper up in 3'd.

My first clue is that the exhaust pipe is rotted off at the muffler, and yet the engine is quite quiet, but under load there is a lot of "hissing" going on, and perhaps some other ungood noises as well.

My priority has been to clean the thing up to a standard that will be good enough for my dear sweet wife let me keep it in the drive way. She is normally very tolerant about these things, but this one was pushing the limits. After some serious scrubbing it doesn't look bad at all, and I suspect that with some cleaner wax and a lot of elbow grease it will be quite acceptable.

Now it is time to plan my attack at troubleshooting and getting things fixed up. What I will do first will be to warm the engine up and do a compression test to see if the internals look good. Assuming things look promising there, I have to find out why it has no power. I suspect the turbo may be seized, or if I'm really lucky, just a plugged cat. As you can imagine, things are pretty ugly in the engine room with respect to rust and deterioration of all the fasteners related to the turbo and exhaust system in general, so I have a couple of questions before I get started.

I have downloaded the '87 supplement for the turbo cars, is this one good for the '90 as well, or is there another manual that would cover it that I can download?

Has anyone got any advice for me as to how to get the exhaust system off in order to inspect the turbo assembly and cat? Also, We don't have emissions testing where I am, so I could eliminate the cat if I want to.

_________________
Robert
91 Sprint N/A 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (320,000km, retired for parts)
90 Turbo Sprint 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (Rescued from certain death, daily driver)
95 Ford E-150 4.9L I6, Custom MSnS-Extra (work van)
92 Winnebago Elante 33RQ Ford 7.5L V8, Custom MSnS-Extra


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 4:35 pm 
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Location: Vancouver BC
Congrats. I have a similar story from a few years ago. Rescued a 90 Sprint Turbo from a junkyard (as people were removing parts from it!)

Your MK2 Turbo 3 is quite a bit (okay almost totally) different from the MK1 Turbo. There are many T3 experts on teamswift (browse this section and you will quickly spot who they are!)

In the meantime, I can offer some words of encouragement and basic info for your project:

My T3 barely ran when I got it, had antifreeze colored engine oil, no visible rust (lots of invisible rust, though). I drove it home (slowly) and over the course of 6 months got it running. The compression test showed almost zero compression in cylinders 1 and 2, and after removing the head, the head gasket was missing a chunk between these two cylinders.

I guessed (naively, but correctly) that the turbo was still operative as the turbo light in the dash still functioned.

I removed the entire head as a unit, with intake and exhaust manifolds with turbo still attached; mainly the exhaust pipe bolts and head bolts need to be removed, fuel lines, and electrical connectors using this method. While this may seem quite bulky, it worked for me, and it allowed me to do most of the fiddly dismantling in my basement instead of hunched over the engine. The exhaust pipe bolts are threaded into the manifold, and will require much soaking in lots of penetrating fluid before they budge. Even then, they may snap off when removing them. One trick is to slightly tighten the bolt before alternating tighten/loosen actions with your deep socket and breaker bar or torque wrench..

There are some hard to get turbo gaskets, but if you are lucky, you can re-use the originals. You will be able to peek at the turbo internals better after you remove the exhaust manifold from the head.

I had a local BC shop in Richmond inspect and clean the fuel injectors and turbo. The original bearings and impeller were in good shape for 280K km. (West Coast Fuel Injection & Turbo Ltd). A local machine shop (Alec's Machine shop in Vancouver) cleaned up the head and valves for me for a reasonable price.

Luckily for me, the head gasket and cleanup was all that was needed.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 8:53 pm 
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Location: London, ON
Quote:
I have downloaded the '87 supplement for the turbo cars, is this one good for the '90 as well, or is there another manual that would cover it that I can download?


Look down a few threads:

http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=10792

I presume you'll be replacing the brake pads, rotors, shoes, drums, brake hardware and lines. The linings are probably ready to come off the pads, and the rear shoes and cylinders are probably toast.

Good luck. Those Mk2s don't survive very long when they aren't stored well. Check the A-arm mounts where the drive axles (or is it the tie rods?) feed through for cracks. They rust inside without showing much on the outside until they crack.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 10:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:27 pm
Posts: 46
Location: Gibsons BC Canada
ST,
Thanks for your words of encouragement. I am optimistic that the basic engine is OK and that my problems are either turbo or exhaust related, only time will tell.

CJ,
Excellent! I was able to download all the files so at least now I have a reliable reference source.

I am going to try to link some photos of the car in case anyone is interested

Thank you gentlemen.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... p9kwd1.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... fu2obh.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... bdruve.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... wmogsz.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... vmsswb.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... iyp6tl.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... tusqtp.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... mi2cw3.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... heoyr5.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... vszamc.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... gbocib.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... 0k7mo1.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j37 ... wslba0.jpg

_________________
Robert
91 Sprint N/A 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (320,000km, retired for parts)
90 Turbo Sprint 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (Rescued from certain death, daily driver)
95 Ford E-150 4.9L I6, Custom MSnS-Extra (work van)
92 Winnebago Elante 33RQ Ford 7.5L V8, Custom MSnS-Extra


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 12:18 am 
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Location: Palm Springs, Calif
Great looking vehicle.
Looks like it was parked in a field for many years.
Nice that you've finally got it out of the dirt.
Now the cleaning begins...


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 2:50 am 
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Location: Vancouver BC
Please protect yourself when cleaning up the mold. Respirators and disposable overalls gloves and goggles. Home Depot sells a product called concrobium that is effective in cleanup and prevention of recurrence. For some reason the vinyls in suzukis are very prone to mold growth.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 10:37 am 
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Posts: 46
Location: Gibsons BC Canada
Update.
After some hours and a lot of hard work, Rosie is looking a bit more presentable (we tend to name our vehicles). I did a compression test when the engine was warm. The results were pretty good. #1 = 175PSI, #2=170 PSI and #3=170 PSI. I don't know if the engine burns oil or not, but the plugs were all very similar in colour with dark tan insulators and some fluffy carbon deposits on the body. No oily deposits at all. I haven't installed a pressure gauge to confirm oil pressure yet. I was able to get the exhaust system, or rather, what was left of it removed, from the cast lower exhaust pipe back. What I found was interesting.

There was a chunk of the cat at the inlet to the straight through muffler. It was not lodged, but was loose, right at the inlet. The ID of the pipe there is ~ 1 3/4". This chunk was more or less cone shaped. The cross section at the largest end was ovoid, ~1" x ~ 1 3/8" by ~ 1 3/4" long and was worn so it looked like it may have been rattling around there for some time. The cat has something loose rattling around in it as well. I was not able to get a piece of fish tape through it, but I don't know how the internals of the cat are arranged. I hooked my shop vac exhaust up to the cat section of pipe and it seemed clear. Same with the straight through muffler section, after I removed the chunk of cat but still with the old tail pipe attached. I poked a piece of fish tape up the open exhaust of the cast lower exhaust pipe and it appears to be empty. I flashed the engine up with open exhaust. It started immediately and settled in to a smooth idle. When I snapped the throttle open to ~ 3500 RPM, the "Turbo " light would light for a split second. After the throttle was closed and the engine was returning to idle I could hear a bit of turbo whistle for about 0.5 seconds as it spooled down,. I think that this is good news indicating that the turbo may be OK. On the initial drive home the only time the "Turbo" light would illuminate was under this type of condition. Under heavy load going up hill it would not illuminate at all. I'm not sure just what controls this light, but I assume that it is just a pressure switch in the intake manifold that closes at some point when the pressure is positive, indicating boost, as opposed to manifold vacuum.

All the exhaust manifold and turbo fasteners are pretty rusty so I think I will gamble a bit and just replace the tail pipe. The straight through muffler and resonator are still salvageable. If I have exhaust leaks with a complete exhaust system I'll locate them and deal with it. If it means pulling the exhaust manifold and turbo then so be it. If whatever is rattling around in the cat blocks the outlet I'll be able to take the cat off again and try to deal with that.

I'm not completely clear on the details of the exhaust system after the cast lower exhaust pipe. I'm assuming that this joint is supposed to be semi-flexible with a do-nut gasket and springs under compression to hold it in place. The springs were not there and the joint surface is quite rough. This is possibly where a lot of my hissing noise was coming from.

Are the springs and do-nut gasket still available?

_________________
Robert
91 Sprint N/A 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (320,000km, retired for parts)
90 Turbo Sprint 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (Rescued from certain death, daily driver)
95 Ford E-150 4.9L I6, Custom MSnS-Extra (work van)
92 Winnebago Elante 33RQ Ford 7.5L V8, Custom MSnS-Extra


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 11:35 am 
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Location: London, ON
The donut gasket is generic as are the spring bolts. You should be able to find them at a normal exhaust shop. Or at least you used to be able to with almost no fuss.

If you can, don't bother with the old cat. There's a ceramic honeycomb structure that's most definitely destroyed. Best scenario: it's completely functionless right now and won't cause any major problems. Worst scenario: the remainder of the ceramic blocks the exhaust again and you possibly damage the engine. Get rid of it and put in a race cat for a V8. They should be relatively inexpensive and will do everything you need it to do catalytically, with almost no effect on exhaust flow.

There's another catalyst section in the fat part of the cast downpipe. You really ought to see if it's still in there. If it is, knock it out. It's also useless after all of these years and will only restrict flow at best.

I suggest you get a comfy chair and start reading this entire section and get yourself some free information before you get much further, since it's fairly apparent that you haven't spent nearly enough time going through our trove of past collective experiences. It'll be worth it, trust me. Make bookmarks in your browser when you find good items for future reference. Not trying to be a jerk, just helpful. ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 12:52 pm 
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The exhaust manifold flange to pipe donut is made of an asbestos like material and has a convex mating surface that fits into the concave flange of the exhaust pipe. The 2 springs are compressed by the 2 partially threaded bolts (with depth stops) and it holds the manifold to pipe parts together with enough force to create a good seal while allowing flex.

Suzuki sells the springs (generic) for the non turbo swift as well as the bolts if they are too rusty. The donut is available aftermarket. But the suzuki oem part is thicker and seals better.

I agree with cjdave regarding reading and research as a priority.. though cleaning can be therapeutic if you must get some hands on time right away.

Oh.. Also the black resonance chamber where the rubber air intake pipe comes in ( through a hole in the passenger fender) muffles the turbo whoosh sounds a lot. I had fun for a while running the car with this air pipe disconnected.

Another check you can do is to check that the little vacuum operated dashpot connected to the turbo via a short rod and bellcrank moves freely. It has a diaphram that should move with little effort


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:27 pm
Posts: 46
Location: Gibsons BC Canada
My local auto parts outlet can get the pipe and flange gasket but I am having no luck at all locating the donut and springs. Any specific suggestions on where I may be able to get them?

_________________
Robert
91 Sprint N/A 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (320,000km, retired for parts)
90 Turbo Sprint 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (Rescued from certain death, daily driver)
95 Ford E-150 4.9L I6, Custom MSnS-Extra (work van)
92 Winnebago Elante 33RQ Ford 7.5L V8, Custom MSnS-Extra


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 3:46 pm 
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Location: Vancouver BC
These are dealer parts only. North Short Mitsubishi (formerly North Shore Suzuki) is the closest Suzuki parts dealer for you.
Telephone: Parts line: (604) 983-3911

Spring (2 required)

14492-67D00-000

bolt (2 required)

09119-10041-000

Each part should be around $10 each. (they have them in stock) :D


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 3:49 pm 
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Did you try an exhaust shop? I recall both the spring bolts and donut costing no more than $10 for all of it. The last spring bolt set that I bought was a generic Chevy set.

Quote:
The donut gasket is generic as are the spring bolts. You should be able to find them at a normal exhaust shop. Or at least you used to be able to with almost no fuss


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 3:55 pm 
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[edit] I will double check under my car today to see if it uses the donut listed as Suzuki part 14183-76A00-000 Ring seal. I have a feeling the Turbo may use a different flatter seal. It's been a while since I worked on this car.


Last edited by suzukitom on Thu Apr 07, 2016 4:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 4:08 pm 
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An ebay listing (non OEM) says these will fit but they do not look like the stock parts and the delivered price is about the same.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Bolt-and-Spring-AP-Exhaust-4680-/231461136955?fits=Make%3ASuzuki%7CModel%3ASwift&hash=item35e428aa3b:g:V7IAAOSw7aBVCuKz&vxp=mtr

Image


The stock parts should look something closer to this (Other Suzuki picture below is an example only. The donut may be different. I will need to check this)

Image

Can you look at the T3 supplement CJDave provided you and look at diagram 6F1 Exhaust system to confirm the parts you need?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 5:29 pm 
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Location: walsh,alberta,canada
same bolts, turbo, non- turbo, 1.3 twincam

_________________
89 1.0 turbo firefly
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 5:38 pm 
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:goodpost:

There are a few different thicknesses of donuts as well, just ask to see what they have.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 8:28 pm 
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Here is a picture of the spring bolt and donut from my car's lower exhaust pipe to the catalytic converter exhaust inlet pipe. The part numbers posted earlier are the OEM Suzuki numbers used by all Swift variants, as blueturbofly and cjdave also stated.

The picture is a bit fuzzy but you can make out how the donut (grey) fits between the pipes.

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 2:50 am 
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Location: Gibsons BC Canada
Gentlemen,
Thanks for your replies.

I live in a small town, and there are no specialized exhaust shops locally. The GM dealer in the neighboring town quoted me about $45 for the do-nut and about $35 each for the springs. But, it gets better. They would have to come out of the USA, so add on to that duty, shipping and who knows what else.

I did do a search for Suzuki parts and came up with Parts Direct in Richmond. When I told them what I was looking for they said that that they couldn't cross reference as all Suzuki engines were 4 cylinder (go figure). I did see that North Shore Suzuki was now North Shore Mitsubishi, but I assumed that they no longer handled Suzuki parts. I'll contact them tomorrow. Thanks for the info and part numbers.

The main thing for me is the do-nut gasket. If I can find that, I'm sure I can find a couple of compression springs and bolts that I can make do. Necessity is the mother of invention.

The local auto parts place told me that if I bring the gasket in, they may be able to match it up with something. The reason I hesitate to do that is that if I mangle it taking it off, and they can't find a replacement, then I will eliminate the possibility of making this one work at all.

I had looked at 6F1 before and saw what looked like it could be two springs, but no do-nut gasket or bolts and no references.

Your point about studying the treasure trove of information in this section is well taken, but there is a lot of information there, and it's not all that easy to find something in particular. But believe me when I tell you this, I am trying. I don't want to bother anyone with frivolous questions, but when I can't find an answer, I ask the question. I just hope it doesn't offend anyone.

_________________
Robert
91 Sprint N/A 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (320,000km, retired for parts)
90 Turbo Sprint 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (Rescued from certain death, daily driver)
95 Ford E-150 4.9L I6, Custom MSnS-Extra (work van)
92 Winnebago Elante 33RQ Ford 7.5L V8, Custom MSnS-Extra


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 8:02 pm 
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Location: walsh,alberta,canada
I have ordered parts thru gm for my Suzuki fleet that had to come out of the states....never paid duties or exchange rates (unless they hide them well) I also get them at dealer price, no mark-up.
I work for a large construction company, get fleet discounts on all parts and fluids. 8)
if I remember when I get home, I have a new in bag fel-pro do-nut gasket, I will get the part number for you.
I have a small fleet of these cars, I have gotten into the habit of ordering more than I need for them, so as to have spares on hand.

check the maf (above the air filter) to see if its moving properly- could be sticky from the moist climate you are in.

don't toss the air filter- they are rather hard to find for the t3.
compression numbers are good, for sitting as long as it did. maybe add atf to the oil to clean it up internally.
check the waste-gate on the turbo, frozen open=no boost; frozen shut, it will blow the headgasket!
plugged pre-cat? maybe. I have taken them apart before to gut them....but those 4 rusty bolts on the canister are a pain!
check fuel pressure. pump may be toast from sitting. makes enough pressure to idle, not enough pressure under load/ full throttle.
good luck!

_________________
89 1.0 turbo firefly
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 10:57 pm 
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Posts: 825
Location: walsh,alberta,canada
Fel pro #60566

_________________
89 1.0 turbo firefly
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 11:53 pm 
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Location: Vancouver BC
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2655068&cc=1061301&jnid=402&jpid=3

An alternate manufacturer of T3 gaskets is Victor Reinz.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 12:58 am 
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Location: Gibsons BC Canada
Gentlemen,
Thanks again for your input.

I talked with Colin in parts at North Shore Mitsubishi this morning. He had the springs in stock, at ~ $10.00 Cdn each. The Ring Seal has to be brought in and is ~$22.00 Cdn. I didn't order the bolts because on a more detailed inspection of the cast down pipe, there are no threads in the casting. I assume that it has been drilled out to accept through bolts. Not the best situation, but I'll have to live with that and new springs and ring seal. They should arrive in Gibsons about the 13th this month, more or less. Oh, one other thing. I did check the down pipe and from all indications it is empty, no cat material.

In the mean time I gave the poor little critter some fresh 10W30 oil and a new filter. I hooked up a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge and checked pressure after start up with the new oil. It has an open exhaust at this time and I didn't want to upset the neighbors, so I didn't run it long, but idle pressure cold was ~70 PSI on the gauge. Looks like the basic engine is a keeper.

I also connected a 0-15 PSI pressure gauge for manifold pressure to see if I could confirm that the turbo was functioning. With the open exhaust, and under no load, when I cracked the throttle to ~3000RPM the turbo light would illuminate briefly, but the manifold pressure gauge would not deflect at all. I had expected something, but perhaps this is normal because the engine is not loaded up enough to produce any boost.

One other possibility is that I may not be taking my pressure from the correct place. On the Helmholtz resonator, just after the throttle body there are two spare ports with 1/8" pipe plugs. I removed the one closest to the throttle plates and supplied my gauge with manifold pressure from that point. Was that the correct place to take it from?

On the chassis end of things, It had the fuel tank replaced not long before it was parked, but it was still bare metal. Given that these things are made out of tin foil, and it was relatively easy to re and re it, I took it out again, cleaned it up and undercoated it before re-installing.

I checked the rear brakes, and as expected, they were in bad shape. The left side shoes were almost worn out and the aft piston was seized in the bore. I was able to loosen it up, with no hydraulic leaks (yet). I had a spare set of shoes for my '91 so I installed them after cleaning the drum surface up. It was not in all that bad a condition, all considering.

The right side was a bit worse. The linings had both separated from their shoes, and, again, the aft piston was seized. I had no difficulty is freeing things up and installing new shoes. The wheel bearings felt a bit rough on that side, so I replaced them with spares I had on hand.

The front brakes were in bad shape as well. The pads were badly worn and tight in the sliders. The rotors are in bad shape. I had a set of used pads that I installed to get me by initial check out, but once she is on the road it will be new pads and rotors. The front wheel bearings and tie rod ends are in good shape.

So, that is probably all the mechanical work until the new parts arrive. I'll continue with the clean up unless the phone rings and I have to go to work and justify my existence.

_________________
Robert
91 Sprint N/A 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (320,000km, retired for parts)
90 Turbo Sprint 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (Rescued from certain death, daily driver)
95 Ford E-150 4.9L I6, Custom MSnS-Extra (work van)
92 Winnebago Elante 33RQ Ford 7.5L V8, Custom MSnS-Extra


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 6:42 pm 
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Posts: 46
Location: Gibsons BC Canada
Update,
Well the ring gasket and springs finally arrived. I was able to get the tail pipe from a local supplier so the exhaust system is complete. The down pipe (pre-cat?) has nothing in it and the cat has at least one piece of catshit rattling around in there. Clean up is complete, or at least as much as I am prepared to do. Everything seems to work except for the fuel gauge. I don't know if it didn't work before or if I screwed something up when I had the tank out. It has a full tank of fuel now and reads nothing. I don't feel strongly about it enough to troubleshoot it now as I'm hoping beyond hope that the float is just stuck in the empty position, having been "at rest" for such a long time and perhaps some use will jar it loose.

Compression is good and oil pressure is good. Brakes are good and it looks relatively good, so I committed myself and transferred the plates and insurance from my trusty '91 NA.

"Suzie" has been a wonderful car. I bought her 10 years ago for $900. I had to get the head done and install a set of rings to cure her thirst for oil early on, but other than that it has been just minor maintenance things, brakes and the like. The engine is still very strong, burns no oil between changes to speak of (~5000km) and averages over 50 MPG Imperial combined. But, at 320,000 km everything else is getting pretty tired, so assuming the Turbo Sprint works out, she will be retired as a parts car. But I digress.

The test drive has proved very promising. The engine starts and runs very well. The transmission is quiet and the shifter is snug and positive. The difference in power between the NA and the turbo is quite remarkable. It will make ~4lbs of boost at 2000 RPM, ~7lbs at 2500 RPM and an honest 8 lbs at 3000. Grades that I would need to be in 3’d gear for in the NA can be taken in 4th, those that needed 4th can now be done in fifth. For most of my driving on the local roads (80 KPH limit) I can stay in 5th. It will pull real well down to ~2200, but there is not much left below 2000 and that is too far below peak torque to be asking much of it any way.

Only time will tell what the oil consumption will be. I don’t expect the economy to be as good as the NA, even if I can resist the temptation to take advantage of this new power. I am not an aggressive driver, but the fun factor has just climbed up a few notches.

With just under 255,000 km showing on the odometer, I hope to get a few more years out of "Rosie" before the rust bugs make too much of a meal out of her and she will have to be retired as well.

I’ll try and link to the latest photos if anyone is interested.

http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=1
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=0
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=2
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=0
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=3
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=4
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=5
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=6
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=7
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=8
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=9
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... ort=3&o=10
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... ort=3&o=11
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... ort=3&o=12
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=1
http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/E4ODn ... sort=3&o=2

_________________
Robert
91 Sprint N/A 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (320,000km, retired for parts)
90 Turbo Sprint 3dr hatchback 1L 5spd (Rescued from certain death, daily driver)
95 Ford E-150 4.9L I6, Custom MSnS-Extra (work van)
92 Winnebago Elante 33RQ Ford 7.5L V8, Custom MSnS-Extra


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:27 pm
Posts: 825
Location: walsh,alberta,canada
that car sure cleaned up nice!

change the trans fluid. gl75 weight or '' synchromesh''

looks good!

_________________
89 1.0 turbo firefly
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:59 pm 
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a.k.a Bum head
User avatar

Joined: Mon May 31, 2004 5:29 pm
Posts: 3157
Location: London, ON
I'm jealous. Nice find!


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