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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 2:20 pm 
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hi,

what should I do in my Swift 1994 1.0GL to increase fuel economy. Now my car takes about 7,5l/100km in the city.it seems to much for this car. I read somewhere in this forum that this swift takes about 6l/100km in the city.

thx
MarVin [PL]


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 5:51 pm 
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If you do a lot of city driving, coasting in neutral as often as possible will cause a noticable reduction in fuel usage. Removing as much unneccesary weight as possible, running skinny tires also helps too.
Here's some prior threads concerning fuel economy:
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=11349
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=1650
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=1667

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 7:37 am 
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Lihtan wrote:
If you do a lot of city driving, coasting in neutral as often as possible will cause a noticable reduction in fuel usage.

Have you tested this? Or just guessing? :) Most EFI cars, Suzukis included, have a fuel cut when the throttle closes at higher engine speeds. In neutral, the engine could actually be using more fuel than in gear. I've never tested the mileage either way, but I sometimes coast with the engine off. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 3:29 pm 
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Gasoline Fumes wrote:
but I sometimes coast with the engine off. :lol:

:stfu: wow, that's one of the stupidest things i've seen posted in a long time.
btw, coasting in neutral is technically illegal, falls under that unsafe driving category, turning your engine off is just stupid. :bong: not only are you going to use more fuel when you go to start the engine again, tons of added wear from all the extra starts, but you're also losing your braking assistance, brake booster doesn't do jack without a manifold vacuum.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 4:56 pm 
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Gasoline Fumes wrote:
Most EFI cars, Suzukis included, have a fuel cut when the throttle closes at higher engine speeds.


Technically speaking, coasting in neutral is not the same as letting off on the gas and letting the ECU cut the fuel - you'll be decelerating if you let off the throttle in gear. Isn't most of the reason ECU's do the fuel cut during decel is for emissions reasons?

There's a bunch of articles over the years on maximizing your MPG - smooth slow takeoffs from the light, using as little throttle as possible to maintain your speed, along with the highest gear, keeping tire pressures up, alignment, keep your car in tune, no unnecessary idling especially at startup, etc etc.

FWIW, here in So. Calif, they used to mix MTBE in the fuel during the winter months, and now I think they mix ethanol in it year round - this caused mileage to drop in my cars though I still average about 47MPG in my 1.0L 5 spd 1992 metro (all freeway)

Dave

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 2:48 am 
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Gasoline Fumes wrote:
Have you tested this? Or just guessing? :) Most EFI cars, Suzukis included, have a fuel cut when the throttle closes at higher engine speeds. In neutral, the engine could actually be using more fuel than in gear. I've never tested the mileage either way, but I sometimes coast with the engine off. :lol:

Yes, I've confirmed this. If you have a long downward grade, instead of having the engine under load doing 3000 - 4000 RPM, the engine is idling at no load doing 800 RPM. You're physically moving a distance with only intertia and gravity, not the power of the engine. This works best if you don't have traffic behind you so you can coast longer distances before you have to put the car in gear again to get back up to speed. I've found this works so well, I get "free" engine braking. Normally engine braking increases your fuel consumption, coasting prior to engine braking negates this loss.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 2:59 am 
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if you're going to coast, just put the clutch in, have the car in an appropriate gear to either engine brake or get yourself out of a bad situation

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 3:36 am 
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Standing on the clutch puts unneccesary pressure on the thrust bearing. Even moreso if you have a heavier than stock clutch like I do.

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 5:49 pm 
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Location: Irvine, Ca
marvin_PL wrote:
what should I do in my Swift 1994 1.0GL to increase fuel economy. Now my car takes about 7,5l/100km in the city.it seems to much for this car. I read somewhere in this forum that this swift takes about 6l/100km in the city.[PL]

Let's convert some of that so us in the US know what your talking about.
7.5L/100km = 31.36mi/USgal, 6L/100km = 39.02mi/USgal.

In the city, it's sometimes hard to change your driving habits. So make sure your car is in good tune. O2 sensor works well, compression, etc. Make sure the cooling system isn't keeping the engine too cold (my current problem), as a cold engine will burn more gas. Heavy aftermarket wheels and tires will kill your milage.

On the highway, I often try to find something to draft off of. SUVs work, but sometimes go to fast and don't give a good draft. Box trucks and fast moving semi's work great. I cruise at 65mph with hardly any effort. My '94 XFi gets mileage between 41mpg (5.7l/100km) to 49mpg (4.8l/km).

Upgraded exaust and low restriction intake can help.

BTW, I recently heard about the fuel cutting thing and have been experimenting. I noticed if I coast in gear, my temp drops quickly, which I assume means the water is still pumping, but there's no more fire to put out. If I coast out of gear, the idle sustains temperature. I have no blips in my mpg data, but it looks like coasting in gear uses less gas.

Jay W
505/287 Dakota


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 12:14 pm 
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my swift has 130,000km , I don't know that someone has chanded o2 sensor in my car, so should I change it?? or after how many km o2 sensor should be changed

thx
marvin [PL]


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 2:39 pm 
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marvin_PL wrote:
my swift has 130,000km , I don't know that someone has chanded o2 sensor in my car, so should I change it?? or after how many km o2 sensor should be changed


You'd usually change the O2 sensor when the check engine light comes on and there's a code 13 stored. 130k kms is pretty good for an original sensor (I know I don't get that much out of mine sometimes). If the ECU isn't upset with it, chances are that it's okay.


Chris

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 3:02 pm 
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Lihtan wrote:
Yes, I've confirmed this. If you have a long downward grade, instead of having the engine under load doing 3000 - 4000 RPM, the engine is idling at no load doing 800 RPM. You're physically moving a distance with only intertia and gravity, not the power of the engine. This works best if you don't have traffic behind you so you can coast longer distances before you have to put the car in gear again to get back up to speed. I've found this works so well, I get "free" engine braking. Normally engine braking increases your fuel consumption, coasting prior to engine braking negates this loss.


i hate to belabor all of my past experiences with saab cars, but from 1949 to 1976 (in the u.s.market, until 1986 in the european market) saab used a 4 speed gearbox with freewheeling built into them. it was a vestige of an engineering goodie for making sure that the original 2 cycle, oil mixed with fuel engines didn't fry under closed throttle engine braking conditions. when you let up on the throttle and roadspeed was faster than the tranny's mainshaft speed, an over-running clutch on the input shaft basically took the box out of gear and you coasted. with my cars that had the later model v4 1300 cc 4 stroke engine i used to be able to achieve 50 or 60 mpg if i stayed out of "racer" mode.

since i learned to drive that way as a young lad it's stayed with me my whole life. i routinely coast in neutral whenever it seems natural. when the engine goes to idle and i'm sailing down a mountainside the scottish side of me is dancing a jig. :lol: i'm not sure that a flatlander is going to get rich by using the technique, though.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 7:33 pm 
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From observing my AFM the ECu stops sending fuel when engine braking. So some times ill down shift but I usually let it coast in neutral. the high vacuum from the engine isent good for valve seals. Minimizing the times youre car is running with high vacuum will result in longer seal life :)

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