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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 2:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 15, 2008 6:41 pm
Posts: 44
Location: Santa Barbara, California
What size wheels and tires are you running?

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85 Chevy Sprint Plus
87 Chevy Sprint Plus
It may only have 3 cylinders and be less than 1 liter.....
BUT IT'S GOT A HEMI!!
XD


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 10:56 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:06 pm
Posts: 1445
Location: Atlanta GA 30052
some very good pts so far -- could be a sticky.
i want to add
1. all tires are stamped with month and yr when made. Tirerack.com explains how to decipher it. i try to replace tires after 4-5 yrs. I have a 1972 spare in my "museum" that i would not use. it is rock hard. no cracks.
2. you can actually see your contact patch if you coat your tire tread with chalk or paint and lower it onto cardboard/paper.
3. i think 10 F degrees change = 1 psi change. air temp, sunshine, and rotation add heat.

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looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 10:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 4:15 pm
Posts: 97
Location: Vancouver
I work at a tire shop. Most of what I have to say has been already mentioned. All tires have "do not exceed 40 psi during seating marked on them." Although the highest I've gone before I had a beat seat was 115. It was pretty sketchy. Anyways, you guys can ignore that number.

As for increasing pressure. I've never done it myself because of the caliber of most of the cars that come through our shop, not to mention alot of them having TPMS, so I always set to manufacturer's specs. I can't see a huge problem with overinflating, although I wouldn't go over the max load rating, just in case. If you do have old tires, don't do it, as the rubber is old and weak and having your tread blow off can be extremely dangerous. Good luck controlling your car when that happens. Sbdeadelf was lucky he wasnt driving when he lost his treads.

To figure out the age of your tire, you'll find either a 3 or 4 digit number at the end of the DOT. If its 3 digits, its from the 90s, first 2 digits are the week of the year manufactured, and the third number is the last digit of the year manufactured. If its a 4 digit number, the same applies, but the last 2 digits are the year of manufacture. We recommend tires be replaced when they are 5-6 years old. Although I've seen a number of shitty brands have tons of cracking between the treads in tires that are only a few years old. Also when you buy new tires, make sure they are new, Check the date, as you can still find new tires that are old and have just been sitting in a warehouse for 10 years.

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1990 Turbo Firefly


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:46 pm
Posts: 1099
Location: Abbotsford, BC
I'm still wondering if anyone is going to try using four spare tires at once ?

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 7:00 pm
Posts: 582
Location: Cambridge, ontario
mustngr wrote:
I'm no tire expert....


Bead setting pressure is something entirely different. What it means is that if it takes more pressure than that to seat the bead it will result in tire damage in the bead area. It would generally indicate ill-fitting rims, or poor bead tolerances in a new tire. In other words a tire that is too small for the rim, or a rim that is too large for the tire. If you exceed 40 psi when installing the tire on the rim you need to take a look at why that is happening because you would be "stretching" the bead.



It is obvious that you are not a tire expert. There is a lot of misinformation in the above post. The reason that it says not to exceed 40psi when seating the beads is because of a lawsuit that happened along time ago when a tire blew apart and injured someone in california. For a long time after market rims would have stamped on them "do not exceed 80 psi (40psi in california)".
Seating the beads at 40 psi is a good practice for any tire shop to use. The beads will not stretch. Different rims have different sized bead bumps and tires vary in their sidewall stiffness. When you seat the beads at a high pressure (100psi), they pop onto the beads and are well seated. Often at a lower pressure, they slowly push out onto the beads and it is hard to tell whether the tire is properly seated. You then balance the tire and once on the car, the cornering loads will cause the bead to properly seat. The problem is that this affects the balance as the tire has moved slightly. On the skinny wet noodle 12 and 13" tires common to this mpg forum, it is unlikely that this will happen as the sidewalls on most of these tires are so soft you could likely seat the beads by hand, but in performance tires a high pressure is much better for seating the beads.

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Mk1 t3!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 5:21 pm 
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Sad but True...

Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:20 pm
Posts: 2973
Location: Saskatchewan
1995Firefly4dr wrote:
I'm still wondering if anyone is going to try using four spare tires at once ?

maybe it was just me, but on this chevette I had, the spares actually WEIGHED MORE than the regular 13" tires I was running. they were skinnier and smaller diameter but the poor little thing couldnt spin those tires when it could the 13's. wow that car was horrible. I dont know sprint spares, but check it out, its a harder rubber and its definitely a steel rim

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1991 Swift GT Build G10 +25 psi + other goodies
1996 Metro Build QR25de swap, still undecided where to take it
the lolcar family


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:46 pm
Posts: 1099
Location: Abbotsford, BC
swift13b wrote:
1995Firefly4dr wrote:
I'm still wondering if anyone is going to try using four spare tires at once ?

maybe it was just me, but on this chevette I had, the spares actually WEIGHED MORE than the regular 13" tires I was running. they were skinnier and smaller diameter but the poor little thing couldnt spin those tires when it could the 13's. wow that car was horrible. I dont know sprint spares, but check it out, its a harder rubber and its definitely a steel rim


good thing because i'm may/may not try to do a burnout with two front wheel spare tires. (at their recommended psi )

_________________
1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 8:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 10:28 am
Posts: 290
Location: McCall, Idaho (Native: So Cal)
Back on the subject of Moon Disk hubcaps?
mustngr posted:
Quote:
I increased tire pressure and installed the smoothies at basically the same time, so I can't tell you what difference they made individually. Combined they were worth about 2 mpg.

Great! I have 12" wheels, run 38 psi and did not change my driving habits, 87 octane, gas station or the way I fill-up. The only modification I made since the last fill-up was 12" Moon Disks from Hubcap Mike. Scientific, definitive maybe not. So. Pics in album.
I got one mile per gallon more. 52.05 mpg to 53.14 Confirms mustngr's mpg increase.
For every 370 miles of local driving (less than 60 mi RT) I save 60 cents per fill-up at $4.09 per gallon. They may never pay for themselves but I do get 1 more mpg driving locally. They are quieter than the original hubcaps. Most important... I like the look.

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Have fun,
Bad Bent
'91 Metro, rescued from trip to junk yard. SuzukiRD Underpulley & Header. 3Tech 9mm plug wires & 218/350 cam +10 gear, Bosch Plat. +4s, FlameThrowerII, synthetic fluids. K&N, Optima, Catco, Jones glasspack, & KYB struts. Vortekx Generators, Air dam, 7mm ground system, Ram Air. No TBI bridge. No A/C - roof scoop works.
'96 Metro - The Wife's car: SuzukiRD Underpulley, 3Tech econo cam +10 gear, K&N, KYB, Bosch, Syn. & grounded. No TBI bridge.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2007 11:10 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Yea can sing a song very close to these.
My daily work drive is 125 round trip. 95% highway (guessing - I'll measure it Monday) Been driving that for 1.5 yrs. Just had the steel 12" ers. I didn't mind the look (didn't like the dull silver fading off the caps) and it's just a work car. Finally I sand them all down and put a couple layers of Gloss black rust-o-leummm on 'em and slipped'em on and notice a 1-2 mpg increase - not bad.
If anything I would fill in the oval holes and spray'em again. I'll put the savings into the new motor. Pics a bit dark - she's stuck in the garage.


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