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 Post subject: My fuel economy upgrades
PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 8:54 pm 
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
So far I am impressed that my Metro got almost 45 MPG when I got it running right, but I learned through this site and other resources that weight reduction is also a factor and the type of fuel you uses. My car is now seeing a 4 MPG increase with these mods.............

Removed Spare tire, jack, tools.
Removed rear seat.
Removed outside radio antenna (and broke it) and wired to rear window defroster.
Disabled the Daytime Running Lights by grounding wire on parking brake.
Removed air intake tube from inside fender well.
Running 89 Octane gas instead of regular.

The next step in my upgrades will include setting my ignition timing properly as soon as I get a working timing light, Reducing more weight, but not drastically. I also plan on making some sort of grill inserts that look good and will be permanent. I thought of looking for an XFI cam and installing it also.

I want to get the best MPG possible without going too drastic. I will keep you all posted on what I find helps out. So far I am at 49.4 MPG and if I really change my driving habits, this car will get over 50 MPG easy.

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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2008 3:06 pm 
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Location: Seattle, WA (Kent)
JohnnyMullet wrote:
Running 89 Octane gas instead of regular.


Is this really worth it to help get that 4 extra mpg?

I wouldn't think so but I haven't run the numbers. Have you considered switching back to 87 octane to see if your mileage stays up. I would assume that if going from 87 to 89 gets you 4mpg, then it might be worth it... but in combination with all your other mods going from 87 to 89 is probably only getting you 1mpg... maybe less.

Around here 87 is $3.63 and 89 is $3.69... so over 1000 miles at 41mpg vs. 45 mpg... you save $6, IF the 89 octane is why you got the 4mpg gain. And I would guess the octane change is only giving you 1 or 2 mpg gain... so the savings drops to about .85 cents to $2.30 if that is the case.

You should be able to gain more then 1mpg with aero mods, modifying your driving behaviours and pumping the tire pressures up.

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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2008 8:12 pm 
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
I have yet to change tire pressures and was reading up on it. Looks like I am going to try them at 44PSI on 13" tires and work on other improvements. I borrowed a timing light today and forgot it at work :oops:

I plan on 8 degrees advance on the timing should be about right.

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
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  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 6:14 am 
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Location: Fort Atkinson WI
dunhamjr wrote:
JohnnyMullet wrote:
Running 89 Octane gas instead of regular.


Is this really worth it to help get that 4 extra mpg?

I wouldn't think so but I haven't run the numbers. Have you considered switching back to 87 octane to see if your mileage stays up. I would assume that if going from 87 to 89 gets you 4mpg, then it might be worth it... but in combination with all your other mods going from 87 to 89 is probably only getting you 1mpg... maybe less.

Around here 87 is $3.63 and 89 is $3.69... so over 1000 miles at 41mpg vs. 45 mpg... you save $6, IF the 89 octane is why you got the 4mpg gain. And I would guess the octane change is only giving you 1 or 2 mpg gain... so the savings drops to about .85 cents to $2.30 if that is the case.

You should be able to gain more then 1mpg with aero mods, modifying your driving behaviours and pumping the tire pressures up.


Alot of the BP stations around here sell regular and mid grade for the same price. I did notice one stations mid grade was only 88 octane :roll: I'm gonna keep an eye out for 89 octane staions selling it for the same price as 87. My wife has been running mid grade in her G6 for quite sometime now and with the warmer weather the MPG are finally coming back. So far my car appears to be liking the mid grade better. I'll see in 2 weeks when I fill up again if thats the case or not for sure.

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Just when I thought I was about to get back on my own 2 feet life kicked me in the shorts.

94 GEO METRO PARTS FOR SALE EVERYTHING MUST GO!!!!
94 XFI rust bucket
96 Honda Accord


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 11:04 pm 
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Location: Hampton, VA
I found 4-5 MPG increase with the 44 psi in the tires and 3-4 MPG increase with cutting the engine off at insanely long lights. Hoping for a few more when I try out a 7 mile shorter trip that is lower speeds. I was running 65 MPH for about 90% of my 90 mile commute. Average tank was 44-45 MPG. Right now I'm at 2/3 full with 160 miles. Hoping to get to the 50 MPG club :D My commute now is only about 10% 55+ MPH and rest is 45. Should have results this coming week. Not burning as much fuel anymore. My two cents, and experience

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 7:57 pm 
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Location: flint michigan
JohnnyMullet wrote:
Disabled the Daytime Running Lights by grounding wire on parking brake.

how did you do this?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:07 pm 
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
demonchild wrote:
JohnnyMullet wrote:
Disabled the Daytime Running Lights by grounding wire on parking brake.

how did you do this?

I put both front seat all the way forward and got in the back. I removed the 2 screws in the side of the console, pulled up the parking brake lever and moved the console up and out of the way. I then found a wire on the lower part of the mechanism, and simply ran it to one of the bolts holding down the mechanism. This grounds the switch and turns off the DRL's but it also leaves the "Brake" light illuminated on your dash.

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:21 pm 
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Location: so. in.
sounds like the power may be going to ground that way :?:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 5:35 am 
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It is a ground. Only grounds when the lever is pulled up or when you bolt it to the floor =)

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:18 pm 
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Location: Atlanta GA 30052
JohnnyMullet wrote:
The next step in my upgrades will include making some sort of grill inserts that look good and will be permanent.

assuming you mean SOLID, Did u try this?
Anyone else?
Seems to me it may increase drag and reduce cooling?

People here accelerate like drag racers! :( Is the HCU in tune?
(Human Control Unit)

with 42psi and obey the green dash light i get 50mpg. on cheapest reg gas. from Walmart. :-P
removed rear seat -- my tools plus me =300 pounds.

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looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 3:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:20 pm
Posts: 2973
Location: Saskatchewan
JohnnyMullet wrote:
demonchild wrote:
JohnnyMullet wrote:
Disabled the Daytime Running Lights by grounding wire on parking brake.

how did you do this?

I put both front seat all the way forward and got in the back. I removed the 2 screws in the side of the console, pulled up the parking brake lever and moved the console up and out of the way. I then found a wire on the lower part of the mechanism, and simply ran it to one of the bolts holding down the mechanism. This grounds the switch and turns off the DRL's but it also leaves the "Brake" light illuminated on your dash.

yeah so thats a good idea, when somethings wrong with your brakes you wont know until you hammer on em

edit: like low fluid, or no fluid due to a broken line or something

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1996 Metro Build QR25de swap, still undecided where to take it
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:21 am 
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Location: Washington, DC
While it obviously would be better to keep the brake warning light operable, people drove cars without such a thing for 80 years and somehow most managed to survive. I think anyone considering doing this type of modification is probably competent enough to check their brake fluid every three months or so.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 8:46 am 
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Location: Fort Atkinson WI
If your brakes go out because of low fluid from leaks etc....your not very observant of your vehicles maintenance. I personally always take a quick peak under my car every day. You should never have to add brake fluid to a properly operating brake system. Only if you do brake work or bleed them will you need to add fluid. Speaking of that I need to bleed my brakes! :shock: who knows how old that crap is :huh:

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Just when I thought I was about to get back on my own 2 feet life kicked me in the shorts.

94 GEO METRO PARTS FOR SALE EVERYTHING MUST GO!!!!
94 XFI rust bucket
96 Honda Accord


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 2:13 pm 
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you shoulda seen the brown crap that came out of my brake lines when I had to bleed. put a full container through the system! unfortunately I didnt feel much of a difference, but its good to know

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1996 Metro Build QR25de swap, still undecided where to take it
the lolcar family


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:47 pm 
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
I went as far as removing the cluster and eliminating the "Brake" light illumination. You should only do this mod if you feel safe and check your fluids regularly. If I lose brakes and crash, it's my own damn fault.

I am now up to 62 MPG with these mods along with the ones posted earlier..........

Radio antenna is now internal
Deleted passenger side mirror
Hyper-inflated tires to 44 PSI
Replaced transmission (old one was grinding and causing drag)
Replaced new trans fluid with Syncromesh
Installed econometer/vacuum gauge

There is more info with lots of pics posted in the link in my signature.

_________________
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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 7:06 pm 
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Location: Atlanta GA 30052
swift13b wrote:
you shoulda seen the brown crap that came out of my brake lines when I had to bleed. put a full container through the system! unfortunately I didnt feel much of a difference, but its good to know

Is there a Maintenance section at Teamswift? On these old cars things need to be checked. After i got my metro i put a qt of fluid through the system. it didnt feel bad but who knows! The coffee colored fluid must of been 15 yrs old! never seen such! it now feels the same but i know it can handle hi temps and the moisture isnt rusting the parts.

Back to mpg: 62 is excellent. how much did all the improvements cost Mr. Mullet?

_________________
looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 7:43 pm 
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Location: Findlay,OH
xrw44 wrote:
JohnnyMullet wrote:
The next step in my upgrades will include making some sort of grill inserts that look good and will be permanent.

assuming you mean SOLID, Did u try this?
Anyone else?
Seems to me it may increase drag and reduce cooling?


Keeping the air from entering the engine compartment is a good/bad idea. The bay accounts for almost 25-30% of all drag a car produces. So still allowing air in to the radiator is a good idea. I know my car I can drive for like 30-40 minutes in town in 85 deg. weather before my fan even kicks on. These motors do not generate a lot of heat. Blocking some of that air may help for our Buckeye state winters. BBBUUUURRRRRR.
I am looking at doing a grill block and a partial under tray for my car, mainly the front bumper/ suspension parts.

HEY Johnny how far is Ashtabula from Findlay, maybe you could help me with my valves sometime. :) :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:20 pm 
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You are 5 hrs away. The shop I work at has a labor rate of $60.00 per hour. Took 7 hours to do mine, but could be more.

Zimmer's Service Center

Or maybe you can try it at home and use my guide ;)

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:50 pm 
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JohnnyMullet wrote:
You are 5 hrs away. The shop I work at has a labor rate of $60.00 per hour. Took 7 hours to do mine, but could be more.

Zimmer's Service Center

Or maybe you can try it at home and use my guide ;)

5 hours away I think I will do myself. I can't afford that much beer.

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2007 Civic Si
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 12:49 am 
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I'm confused. How does disabling the DRLs help fuel economy?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 10:11 am 
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3pontiacs wrote:
I'm confused. How does disabling the DRLs help fuel economy?

Takes load off of alternator thus helping fuel mileage. Any thing helps. A tenth here a tenth there adds up.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 12:52 pm 
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bbjsw10 wrote:
3pontiacs wrote:
I'm confused. How does disabling the DRLs help fuel economy?

Takes load off of alternator thus helping fuel mileage. Any thing helps. A tenth here a tenth there adds up.

While there is a saving in hp, it is small, between 1/4 and 1/2 a percent of engine power.
that's 5/10ths of a 10th of a 10th of a 3cyl.
Here are the details
http://teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=38636

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looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 12:54 pm 
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Location: VA BCH VA
Right, that's why when the car was introduced, early testers were told about a "tip" to disable the DRL's: pull up one notch on the emergency brake... you can read about it here:

First Look: 1995 Geo Metro

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:34 am 
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Well, this seems to be my average overall, so time to flaunt it...................

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:48 am 
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[quote="JohnnyMullet"]Well, this seems to be my average overall, so time to flaunt it.........[quote]

57mpg! may i suggest you lock it? Better yet hide a disable switch. And be prepared for attention. Figure up how much you want for it -- you will be asked! :D

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looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


Top
 Profile  
 
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