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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 3:29 pm 
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Location: united states
johhny did you advance your timing yet? i cant wait to see how you do with the aero mods..i have been keeping up with your mods i have the same year,same color metro just not the same mpg.. :D let all of us know
thanks
JB


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:10 pm 
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I did eventually find a timing light and set my timing, but have no pics. On a 1998 model, the jumper connector is behind the glovebox. I set it to 10 degrees advance, drove it and it pinged under load. I backed it off a little more and drove again and it was fine set at 8 degrees advance.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:11 pm 
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can we leave the jumper in for next time?

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daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:31 pm 
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As far as I know, you must remove the jumper after it's set so the ECU can do it's job.

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
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  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:37 pm 
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johhny can you walk me thru how to do this timing on my car i didnt realize i had to mess with a jumper
jb


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 5:38 am 
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
What year is your Metro and is it a 1.0?

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
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  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 6:31 am 
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its a 1998 metro 1.0 liter 3 cylinder same as yours
jb


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 7:20 am 
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i went to set the timing on my 99 with the 1.0 yesterday, here is what i got , i hooked up the timing light without putting the jumper in, it was set on 8 . I then looked behind the glovebox and found nothing, then i found on the drivers side the port to hook up the code scanner to. it matched what was under the hood. it had two terminals on top and three on bottom ,so i jumped the lower left and the one in the middle and the timing was still on 8, so am i doing this right ? or am i on the wrong port to putd tdhe jumper on?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 6:54 pm 
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jbelgarde wrote:
johhny can you walk me thru how to do this timing on my car i didnt realize i had to mess with a jumper
jb

Please see this thread but the only difference is where the jumper is. Mine is behind the glovebox and there should be a sticker under the hood to show which pins to jump.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18091&hilit=how+to+set+timing

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
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  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 6:01 pm 
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Location: united states
thanks johhny :D let us know when you make that aeromod in the front bumper. i like your new sticker for mpg !!keep up the good work
jb


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 4:24 am 
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hey johnny can you post that picture of the connector for me thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 8:31 am 
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Location: India
Hi,

To further boost your MPG I suggest you do the following:

1. Add 0.8 ml pure Acetone / liter of Gasoline.
2. add 2 ml of 2T oil (used for lubricating 2 stroke motorcycles, mixed in gasoline), per liter of Gasoline.

While replacing engine oil :

Buy 200 gms of pure boric acid powder and mix it (use a hand blender or some old kitchen mixure) well with 3.5 liters of new engine oil and keep that oil lying for over 2 to 3 days. The bigger (thus heavier) particles of boric acid powder will settle at the bottom. Now pour the remaining oil slowly in a new container carefully so that the bottom whitish residue does get poured. Let 500 ml oil be at the bottom with residue boric acid. Add fresh 500 oil to the clean oil and filter it with a very fine cloth (e.g. some old thin cotton T-shirt). It will take hours for the oil to get filtered. Be patient as this is once in a lifetinme treatment for the engine.

Now replace old engine oil with this Boron Treated Oil. Run the engine normally and just replace the oil filter after 500 kms.
No need to change the oil though.

I have done this in my 2001 MPFI 1.3 L Swift Sedan and am getting fantastic results. The engine is a slippery as an eel and the throttle response is awsome now.

Also try and use some better spark plugs like Iridium for a better combustion of the fuel thereby increasing your MPG.

Do not keep the tyre pressure above 28 psi as it can be dangerous at high speeds and also will harm your suspension badly.

This way you can have a comfy ride and a great driving experience.... you will almost rediscover your engine.

Best Regards

Sandy.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 7:39 pm 
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greenmachine wrote:
hey johnny can you post that picture of the connector for me thanks

Image

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:24 am 
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Location: Washington, DC
fitsandy wrote:
Also try and use some better spark plugs like Iridium for a better combustion of the fuel thereby increasing your MPG.

Do not keep the tyre pressure above 28 psi as it can be dangerous at high speeds and also will harm your suspension badly.


Fancy plugs aren't going to give any better spark than new standard plug, they'll last longer so there will be an improvement if compared when worn.

Never allow your tires to get below the 32 psi the factory recommended. I run 35 psi and lots of people are running 40 for better mileage. Tires fail from low pressure far more often than high pressure.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:44 am 
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If you get a better spark with the help of better plugs, ignition coil and new plug cables, why not ? It results in mightier explosion :cheers: :cheers: resulting in better fuel utilisation.

Keeping higher than recommended pressure will not only result in los of traction but also faster wear of tyres... so whatever you save in fuel will be spent indirectly on new tyres (early change), overhauling of suspension / steering systems.

Its like being penny wise and pound... whatever... :-P

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 11:27 am 
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Location: Florida
fitsandy wrote:
If you get a better spark with the help of better plugs, ignition coil and new plug cables, why not ? It results in mightier explosion resulting in better fuel utilization.



When I first started playing with cars I had the same assumptions but after some 20+ years of experience and research I hate to see people using their money in the LEAST effective areas first.

Why?Because it doesn't work that way- have you ever actually lit gasoline? it doesn't matter what size the spark is the resulting flame (explosion if you want to think of it that way) is still the same, so long as the ignition system is strong enough to make the spark there is little (if any ) benefit in improving it, and just FYI the point where ignition system upgrades become useful is generally above 1.4 HP/CI and this is because at that power level the pressure in the combustion chamber makes it much harder to generate a spark.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 12:51 pm 
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http://www.scribd.com/doc/3321312/Gas-Saving-Techniques

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 12:53 pm 
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kindly go thru this website and tell us which method is effective and which is not, we all would like to benefit from your experience..

regards :wink: :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:15 pm 
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fitsandy wrote:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/3321312/Gas-Saving-Techniques

Just love the pic of the scangauge. 305 Mpg and the car is doing 60 at 500rpm, :censor: :WTF:. Person is clearly coasting I could get mine to say 999 while coasting EOC. These things have potential but not yet, someone trying to make fast cash.

And plus why are you throwing water 4 gas stuff on, Johnny's thread he is too smart to go for that. :study: :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 7:36 pm 
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The very first step in fuel economy is making sure the engine is running properly and the car is serviced. When I first got the car, all the wheel bearing were replaced and greased with special bearing grease because I felt like it. This decreased rolling resistance. I rebuilt the top end of the engine. The trans was grinding, so I replaced it. I made sure to use the proper lubricant in the trans and engine and the new air filter is checked on a regular basis. Tire pressures set to 44 PSI all the way around and checked weekly.

The next step was weight reduction, but from my experience, that only gets you so far. It helps for driving around town.

Changing driving habits and using a vacuum gauge was my biggest net in savings. That little gauge tells me when I am wasting fuel and I always drive 55 MPH and avoid the Interstate. When my vacuum gauge is reading 10Hg at 55 MPH, I am doing fair, but the higher, the better! Learning to control the throttle by watching the gauge and maintaining a steady rate goes far.

Aerodynamics is where you will gain the most Miles Per Gallon when at cruising speed. My car is not heavily aeromodded at all. I have a passenger mirror delete and an antenna relocation. I am sure that adding the grill block and an underbody pan will get me over the 60 MPG mark consistantly.

_________________
Image
  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:41 am 
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Location: Fort Atkinson WI
Johnny how much did it cost for parts to do your valve job? I may be doing one in the next year just curious thats all.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 5:27 am 
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thinkmoto wrote:
Johnny how much did it cost for parts to do your valve job? I may be doing one in the next year just curious thats all.

Click my sig. All the parts costs are posted on each repair I did to the car and I also added a rough estimate on how long each job took.

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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