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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 11:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2007 11:45 pm
Posts: 6
Location: Eugene
The water pump on the 1.0 engine has many impeller fins. Would there be any loss of drag if say half of the fins were removed? Has anyone ever tried this? Issues like overheating?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 3:43 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
Posts: 2433
Location: Regina, SK
If it's anything like cutting the fins off of the old style flywheel fans, that aircooled engines. The pump is designed to operate with those number of fins attached. It is also balanced this way. With the air cooled 2 stroke engines, over heating would occur at lower engine speeds, not at high up temps, because the fans wouldn't be able to push enough air. The same would occur with your water pump.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 11:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2006 11:54 pm
Posts: 673
Location: Illinois
The first week I had my Metro, I threw the belt in the middle of the night. Me, being crazyman, thought, "What's the most important for getting me home? The waterpump. As long as I have a charge, it'll run, but if I overheat, then I'm stuck."

I took my shoestring out, tied it in a circle so it was tight around the crank pulley and the water pump, and off she went, temp ok, headlights dimming all the way.

Point being is that if a shoestring can spin the pump, how much drag can it really have?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:28 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2006 11:31 pm
Posts: 57
Location: Lummi Island
You could probably get away with less h20 movement
in Northern states,I am currently in Wa. and I keep a large
piece of cardboard in front of 2/3 of my radiator to keep
the engine temp up.
I would not remove fins, just replace the pulley with a larger
one, so it doesn't spin as fast.
I would not do this anywhere the temp gets above 90F.
Adding a passive oil cooler with more oil capacity would also
remove heat from the engine.

MM


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:20 pm
Posts: 2973
Location: Saskatchewan
you could probably just try a NEW water pump, the bearings will have been replaced, and theres your parasitic drain... or underdrive that shit

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 5:13 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Brentwood, CA
Drag racers do this sort of thing to gain a little here, and a little there, but those engines operate mostly well above factory RPMs. We are mostly operating at or below factory RPM's. Water has much more resistance than air, so a fan to water pump comparison isn't fair.

Also check out the universal electirc water pump that Moroso sells... a guy could use a shorter belt to only drive the alternator, and drive the water pump electrically (albiet at a slow constant speed, which may or may not result in adequate cooling).

Why not try it out by first adding a water temp gage (to get a baseline) and then trying fitting a larger diameter water pump pulley ? I also agree with looking for better quality lower resistance bearings... most automotive grade bearings are the inexpensive not-so-precision type.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 11:59 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2006 11:31 pm
Posts: 57
Location: Lummi Island
The new pump is a good suggestion, also replacing the bearings with
high quality bearings would be good. The electric would use more power,
you lose about 20% converting motion to electricity, then another
10% driving the electric motor.If you had a really high quality brushless
3 phase permanent magnet motor for an alternator driven by a thin cogged belt
and the same for a drive motor, you may only lose about 15%, but it would
cost at least $1k in parts....

MM


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2005 4:36 pm
Posts: 493
Location: Roscommon, MI
Just get an electric water pump. It won't cavitate at high rpms and it will provide ample flow at idle. If you want to gain back what little electricity you'll lose, then just stick a solar panel on the car.


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